Heya, sorry I'm late to the party! Yeah I'd be the first to say I'm shit at grading, especially for new stuff, I've tended to go with the easiest grade I think a problem could be, just because I feel that they tend to settle down with time and new sequences, but obviously a consensus and a couple of repeats is needed to get them in the right ballpark.
Ideally we'd have a bleau.info style database where people could vote towards a consensus on grades, but that would be a nightmare to make, host etc. , but I think an open access google spreadsheet with a list of areas and problems (which anyone can add to) which lists the guidebook/current grades and leaves room for repeaters to leave their opinion on the grade for them, would be a good solution. It'd be basic, but it would give a greater consensus than what we have at the moment maybe? Might just look like an extensive excel version of this:
Area Problem name Current grade Peoples opinions
Glenmalure Kinky Reggae ss 7B 7A+ 7B 7B
The Scratcher ss 6C 6B 6B+
Soul Revolution 7C+
The Scalp Gen Tilly 6B+ 6B 6B 6C
Dark Angle ss 7A 6B+ 6B |
etc....
It could be linked to the forum, then people can then add new stuff/ suggest grades as they do problems. I just think it might be handier than doing it in threads as they tend to turn into a bit of a mess after a while with too many discussions and problems at once, again just my opinion though. Here's a link to a google spreadsheet on my email account that anyone can access and edit (hopefully) -
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkuhxGGv0MrPdGZhWjRJbzlRVm9jSFExN0psdk5lY2c so this could be a start
I reckon I'm more How-Soft than J-Hard at the mo but considering what I usually get called at the crag I'll take any nickname
Poll