Poll

What bouldering grade is a set of 5 pullups?

5
0 (0%)
5+
1 (25%)
6a
1 (25%)
6a+
0 (0%)
6b
2 (50%)
6b+
0 (0%)
6c
0 (0%)
6c+
0 (0%)
7a
0 (0%)
7a+
0 (0%)
7b
0 (0%)

Total Members Voted: 4

Voting closed: May 17, 2012, 06:40:23 PM

Author Topic: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband  (Read 44006 times)

diarmuid smyth

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #30 on: April 26, 2012, 08:02:44 AM »
In terms of Marie Rose being a total sandbag, spits off the best of folks, I'd suggest Tombstone arete as its twin. Obviously Tombstone doesn't have the history though, so maybe Lowe's problem on the Egg boulder?


I think JH could grow to love the name Jizzle.

Dave Ayton

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #31 on: April 26, 2012, 09:01:23 AM »
Why give "mother" a tongue in cheek grade if you are looking for consensus/consistency?

Sorry Kev I never explained - When I came across Ravens Glen I hadn't been climbing for ages and hadn't bouldered for years except for one day in the Coolies with Fox and Jizzle in Jan and a day in the Scalp where i couldn't climb ANYTHING! Also i found that whenever i suggested a grade for a problem in Ireland it got changed so i graded everything in Ravens 5+ or 6A because i hadn't a clue how i was climbing in the current state of un-fit plus the 6A grade got people onto them. The following weekend about a dozen boulderer types came out and it was interesting to see what went easy and what couldn't be repeated by the average height or stronger boulderer. Mother only got a repeat from Jizzle and myself (although Fox tickled the top slopers). Wicklow Tea spat off the best for a few goes before Trish nabbed the repeat and Pallets by Candle light took it's two repeaters (Jizzle and Tom) over a dozen attempts each? What does that equate to? Crease proof on the mother boulder is still unrepeated so probably not a 6A then...
I also thought that Jizzle's Close Encounters was like a harder version of Chillax capped with a wicked power pull around the lip on a matchbox 3 finger-tip closed slot - more like 7A+ than 6C+ but thats just eyeballing as i couldn't do it

I thought Michael's two at the scalp were spot on grade wise - Alison Curtis 7A and Cashbah 6+ (does that mean 6C or something?)


Kevin_Griffin

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #32 on: April 26, 2012, 09:07:38 AM »
Ha ha Jizzle !! No bother must get to Ravens soon if this rain ever stops....

Kevin_Griffin

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #33 on: April 26, 2012, 09:27:07 AM »
On the subject of J'hard if the spunk is 7B+ there is no way in hell Basilisk can be 7C+ .....

ciaran

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #34 on: April 26, 2012, 09:35:08 AM »
'J-How Da Fuck?'

Barry

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #35 on: April 26, 2012, 09:56:36 AM »
So what grades would you give them Kev?

Kevin_Griffin

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #36 on: April 26, 2012, 10:06:21 AM »
As you know I have'nt done them Barry but a 30 or 40 move roof climb into a powerful 7B+ surely warrants more than an increase of 2 grades ? P.s are we taking 7B+ for The Funk?  because John did say the Spunk was harder

chris rooney

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #37 on: April 26, 2012, 10:30:54 AM »
i think jHizzle's parents must have netnanny installed at home and have blocked theshortspan.

Barry

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #38 on: April 26, 2012, 10:51:39 AM »
Well, as Jizzle is the only person to have done it, by the sounds of it, probably best ask him.  One ascent would hardly make for a benchmark though....

Kevin_Griffin

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #39 on: April 26, 2012, 11:50:20 AM »
Hecll be online later. Consensus on kinky reggae ss ?

chris rooney

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #40 on: April 26, 2012, 12:40:27 PM »
7B

Barry

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #41 on: April 26, 2012, 01:20:00 PM »
7b

John Howard

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #42 on: April 26, 2012, 03:16:16 PM »
Heya, sorry I'm late to the party! Yeah I'd be the first to say I'm shit at grading, especially for new stuff, I've tended to go with the easiest grade I think a problem could be, just because I feel that they tend to settle down with time and new sequences, but obviously a consensus and a couple of repeats is needed to get them in the right ballpark.

Ideally we'd have a bleau.info style database where people could vote towards a consensus on grades, but that would be a nightmare to make, host etc. , but I think an open access google spreadsheet with a list of areas and problems (which anyone can add to) which lists the guidebook/current grades and leaves room for repeaters to leave their opinion on the grade for them, would be a good solution. It'd be basic, but it would give a greater consensus than what we have at the moment maybe? Might just look like an extensive excel version of this:

Area                    Problem name           Current grade      Peoples opinions   
Glenmalure          Kinky Reggae ss            7B                      7A+ 7B  7B   
                           The Scratcher ss            6C                       6B   6B+
                           Soul Revolution              7C+
The Scalp            Gen Tilly                         6B+                     6B   6B  6C
                           Dark Angle ss                 7A                       6B+ 6B
etc....

It could be linked to the forum, then people can then add new stuff/ suggest grades as they do problems. I just think it might be handier than doing it in threads as they tend to turn into a bit of a mess after a while with too many discussions and problems at once, again just my opinion though. Here's a link to a google spreadsheet on my email account that anyone can access and edit (hopefully) - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkuhxGGv0MrPdGZhWjRJbzlRVm9jSFExN0psdk5lY2c so this could be a start

I reckon I'm more How-Soft than J-Hard at the mo but considering what I usually get called at the crag I'll take any nickname ;)


Barry

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #43 on: April 26, 2012, 03:18:21 PM »
Good man Jizzles and to think that some would say the youth of today have no initiative!

chris rooney

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Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« Reply #44 on: April 26, 2012, 03:29:36 PM »
all hail J to the Hizzle!

 

anything