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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Best crowded boulder spot
« Last post by Dave Flanagan on March 28, 2017, 08:55:05 AM »
Hi Hauke
There are problably only two areas where you could show up at the weekend and have a good chance of meeting other boulderers - Glendalough and Fair Head. You could wild camp near each of them, no problem.
Dave
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Bouldering Discussion / Best crowded boulder spot
« Last post by Hauke on March 27, 2017, 01:56:45 PM »
Hey,

i'm from germany. My girlfriend and me are going to travel to ireland to boulder some days.
The Problem: We can just carry one crashpad on the plane. That is not enough.
So we are looking for a boulder-spot that is usally crowded so we can join a group of people. But we also like to camp in the wild, if possible and allowed.
We are used to climb in a 7 up to 8 difficulty rank and have big experience in sandstone, less in granite.

Do you have an idea?
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Log Books
« Last post by Dave Flanagan on March 18, 2017, 02:39:21 PM »
There isn't any that are widely used. If you want to get in touch with me I can help you put together a PDF which I think is the best way to share information about a new area. If you want to add them here http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php
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Bouldering Discussion / Log Books
« Last post by PhysicsNerd on March 17, 2017, 04:28:50 PM »
What is the best online logbook for Ireland?
Something similar to UKC's logbook.
Doing a bit of exploring and developing of areas, would be good to have somewhere to document them.
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Updated Topos for Doolin
« Last post by PhysicsNerd on March 17, 2017, 04:12:15 PM »
Just commenting as a bookmark. I'll be climbing in Doolin a lot in future and topos would be helpful.
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: 7B behind The Tank
« Last post by Forks on February 06, 2017, 06:22:35 AM »
That's the one yeah, it's a lovely problem. Have you tried it? It feels beyond 7B to me, any thoughts?

You're right it's not an easy one.
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I think a FA is a pretty special thing especially if it involves a lot of work to clean/find the problem (Personally I don't have time to go out looking for lines every weekend but the few FA's I have done do stick in the mind more than other problems). That being said I believe that a period of respect can only extend for so long, maybe a season at most. 4 years is way too long. I don't think there is a culture of closed projects in Ireland, this is the first one I have heard of. Quite often we hear of and are shown projects that people are working on, there is never any reference to the project being off limits, most people will show you where the line is and walk you through the moves should you want to try it.

I was out on Rebel Wall today and it is a king line, one of the best in Wicklow, it's a pity that it has been off limits for so long. Problems like this one really get climbers out into areas that don't see that much traffic and get people developing lots of new problems that would otherwise go unclimbed.
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Thanks for posting Barry.
Maybe the term is very rarely used, but I think a lot of problems are de facto closed projects. The closure exists as an implicit agreement between friends.

I agree 100% that publicity was the issue. After all you can't climb a problem if you don't know that it exists. But I don't think it's correct to say that I publicised it widely. The most I ever said online was that it was in Glenmalure which considering the length of valley isn't really giving away much. I told a few people about it, as I trusted them, but obviously word slipped out, granted I didn't swear them to silence or anything. I accept that publicising it widely would be rubbing it in people's faces and not very wise, but I really don't think I did that.

I will have to use NDAs from now on or just keep my mouth shut.

As to it being a non-issue you are probably right on that. I can easily imagine how it would seem like a storm in a teacup.
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Whose line is it anyway? Closed projects in bouldering
« Last post by Barry on June 15, 2015, 03:56:57 PM »
Here's my tuppence..

To date, the glenmalure wall has been the only problem in Ireland that I have heard referred to as a closed project.  For the most part, any of the other long standing projects were not closed but hadn't seen the attention of somebody strong enough!

In this instance, i think that publicising the project widely was the issue....  Note the word widely as if kept in small circles, something akin to gentlemen's agreement can be kept.  However, once publicised widely,  it's a bit like look but don't touch....  In most bouldering areas, problems are not revealed until completed.  I realise that this is not necessarily the case for sports projects which involve financial investment to bolt etc and can be red tagged.

I have shown my projects to others before but once I do this, I would not be surprised if they have a go on the project.  I would also not expect them to jump off if they manage to make it through the difficulty.  I know that Chris can empathise with this...

Why has there not been a wider splay of opinion?  In my opinion, it's because it's a bit of a non-issue with this one exception ...

P.S. We need a flame icon!




 
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It's a pity that more people haven't offered their opinion on the general issue and no clear consensus has emerged even among the few who have posted.

I'm not really interested in further discussing the specifics of the Glenmalure Wall, now known as The Rebel's Wall by the way, but I can assure John and others who don't have any time for closed projects that information it's inevitable that information isn't going to flow as easily in the future and I think that is a pity. 


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