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Messages - Barry

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61
Absolutely. 

I would say Blindstick is about 6c, although I find it an awful bastard to do, so we actually grade quite similarly.  A collection of opinions forms a concensus.


62
Trish - lots of people talk about grades, including you, and grades are used all over the world.  I do know that somebody like Ayton with his long arms and joho with his not-so-tall stature are going to find things slightly different but with a number of ascents, the level of difficulty should/might become clearer.  So it is not whether grades are subjective/objective, there is a clearly a degree of subjectivity, it's about trying to be objective.  If you want to not use this system, that's fine and don't use it, stick to climb/can't climb or doable/doable with effort/will never do.  These are actually grading systems too, albeit personal and relative.

In my opinion, a benchmark problem is a well travelled problem where a number of people can give their 'opinion' on the difficulty.  For problems with one or two ascents, the ascentionist sets the grade but it can hardly be considered as benchmark.  I agree with most of yours Dave apart from one or two.  Notably, all of these are pretty close to the grades suggested by the guide.

Dark Angle Sit - 6c/6c+ (it's a big pull from the ground?)
Quality Control - 6c
Jiggery Pokery - 6c
Blind stick - 6c+
Rythem and Stealth - 7a
Fuck all left - 7a
Andy's arete - 7a +
Loco - 7a+
Pascals - 7b   
The funk - 7b+
Sow your wild oats - 7b+

63
I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure I had some kind of argument/discussion with some members of the northside mafiosa about this.

Chris, probably better to start talking benchmark problems and grades and go from there, you and I have discussed such a list before as far as I remember.

64
Think that'd be the northside coop consensus...

65
Yes, You would appear to be missing something on Chillax...

66
Yes, grades are subjective, this is obvious, but when grading we can try and be as objective as possible.  For example, in Glendalough, and with a few exceptions and morphos, grades are settling down across a relative scale, these are generally based upon benchmark problem/grades.  More traffic has promoted this and at the moment, many areas in Ireland do not have enough traffic to promote a consensus on the benchmark problems/grades but this will change over time.   

67
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Videos etc
« on: April 17, 2012, 07:24:32 PM »
Day 2 of the Kerry Meet, good weather and sweet boulders; The Burbs, Ragga Tip, White Lighning and Sherpa Tensing.

Back to Black

68
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Videos etc
« on: April 12, 2012, 06:56:57 PM »
Nope, a good few were done on other days - afro, egg, groove and a good few more, I think.

69
Bouldering Discussion / Videos etc
« on: April 09, 2012, 10:10:49 PM »


Might be an idea to have a thread for videos and the sort.

Here's one of Larry the Goats, nice place but I think the sand was very high when I was there,

70
Hey Mr Rooney,

Having been on it both ways, I'd suggest for the new beta - 7a+/low-end 7b.  The previous method was far harder and probably justified the grade given in the guide - 7c I think.

Barry

71
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Suggestions for theshortspan front page
« on: April 01, 2012, 10:32:07 PM »
Hey Dave,

Blog roll is good, particularly when you use it for your new finds, videos and the sort but all this might be better as news. In that way, others can also contribute items which would be moderated and also new/newsworthy, e.g second ascents and grade confirmation. Also there are a loads of videos coming through, possibly some kind of link in there, bit like ukclimbing, and again moderated.  You could just link to them and not have to worry about storage.

Few ideas, take them or leave them but well done on the refit, it's looking good.
Barry

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