16
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Problems that require a cusp
« on: May 18, 2012, 10:20:10 AM »
A guppy is a fish.
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17
Bouldering Discussion / Re: swm with 1 pad & no spotter: seeks problems
« on: May 17, 2012, 12:52:12 PM »
Loco Total - definitely get your money's worth with the length of it, and no spotters required!!
18
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Conditions in The Cave
« on: May 10, 2012, 10:42:58 PM »
I don't think it has much to do with seepage - just need a breeze/wind blowing across the cave and it'll dry
James and I were there a week ago and the air was totally still - the Cave was soaked - on a windier day it would have been worth waiting around for it to dry -
A greater concern might be the height of the sand!!! Bring your bucket and spade!!
James and I were there a week ago and the air was totally still - the Cave was soaked - on a windier day it would have been worth waiting around for it to dry -
A greater concern might be the height of the sand!!! Bring your bucket and spade!!
19
Bouldering Discussion / Re: consensus on grade of the Groove SS, Glendalough
« on: May 10, 2012, 11:31:00 AM »
I was at the board for 3 hours on Tuesday I'll have you know! Keeping on top of my cycling and my climbing!!! 
20
Bouldering Discussion / Re: consensus on grade of the Groove SS, Glendalough
« on: May 10, 2012, 09:59:04 AM »
7a Tim! Maybe I'll go give it a try!!
21
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Bouldering pad
« on: May 09, 2012, 02:43:22 PM »
Them Alpkit ones seem to be very good for the price they are - indestructible and cheap - perfect combination! Think you might have to buy them online though...
22
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Apples versus Oranges
« on: May 08, 2012, 09:37:22 PM »
Ha ha! Brilliant!!
23
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« on: May 04, 2012, 08:59:16 AM »
Dave with regards the 'Chin Up' poll above... are those chin ups off a pull up bar or a door frame and how many fingers and arms are allowed?
25
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« on: April 25, 2012, 05:34:56 PM »
Barry, I agree with you - I think there's something slightly and maybe accidentally profound about the 'two grade system' of can/can't suggested to me:
It's totally personal, and looks directly at one's own intrinsic motivation to complete the problem at hand. It disregards the idea that 'this line is easy because it's a 5+ so I should be able to do it/flash it... and if I'm not able, I'm gonna throw a strop'.
It takes away one's competitive nature - He/She can only climb 6b so I should be able to get this first...
At the end of a day out bouldering one might say to oneself: I could climb that one, but I couldn't climb the other... instead of... I didn't get that stupid 5+ but I did that 7a, so who cares about the 5... and so on...
It allows one to find an easy problem hard or a hard problem easy...
Just a thought - that's all
I've spoken at length about grades in the past trying to get to the bottom of it all for my own motivation. The more I looked, the more I realised there is no definitive answer. That's when I came to the conclusion that grades are after-all opinions, and I don't invest as much time worrying about them any more. I don't think they're stupid and never said that or even eluded to it.
It's undeniably satisfying when I climb something that everyone agrees was hard and 'of the grade' it was given.
But more often than not these days - it's about good quality climbing for me - that might change next month, who knows.
Blind stick is a lovely problem, brilliant quality climbing - I've always thought it went at about 6b+, think it's about as hard as Duffy's Slap (6b+) on Big Jim but with a dodgy landing... but it came very simply to me once I found the beta, others disagree...
And so the debate continues...
It's totally personal, and looks directly at one's own intrinsic motivation to complete the problem at hand. It disregards the idea that 'this line is easy because it's a 5+ so I should be able to do it/flash it... and if I'm not able, I'm gonna throw a strop'.
It takes away one's competitive nature - He/She can only climb 6b so I should be able to get this first...
At the end of a day out bouldering one might say to oneself: I could climb that one, but I couldn't climb the other... instead of... I didn't get that stupid 5+ but I did that 7a, so who cares about the 5... and so on...
It allows one to find an easy problem hard or a hard problem easy...
Just a thought - that's all
I've spoken at length about grades in the past trying to get to the bottom of it all for my own motivation. The more I looked, the more I realised there is no definitive answer. That's when I came to the conclusion that grades are after-all opinions, and I don't invest as much time worrying about them any more. I don't think they're stupid and never said that or even eluded to it.
It's undeniably satisfying when I climb something that everyone agrees was hard and 'of the grade' it was given.
But more often than not these days - it's about good quality climbing for me - that might change next month, who knows.
Blind stick is a lovely problem, brilliant quality climbing - I've always thought it went at about 6b+, think it's about as hard as Duffy's Slap (6b+) on Big Jim but with a dodgy landing... but it came very simply to me once I found the beta, others disagree...
And so the debate continues...
26
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« on: April 25, 2012, 03:24:53 PM »
Pretty funny to me that heads are saying that Loco is 7a,7b,7b+ when I've heard some of the same heads claiming Rhythm and Stealth is 6c...
Grades are what they are... opinions.
A wise boulderer once said:
There are two grades: I can, and I can't
These days I think that man is right.
Grades are what they are... opinions.
A wise boulderer once said:
There are two grades: I can, and I can't
These days I think that man is right.
28
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Kerry Bouldering Meet
« on: April 05, 2012, 09:46:35 AM »
So weather pending - is there a bouldering troop headed down to the Gap this year?!!
29
Bouldering Discussion / Re: physio
« on: April 04, 2012, 02:53:52 PM »
Aidan Woods. Pearse St physio.
Sorted out a LOT of climbers and is brilliant at what he does.
Sorted out a LOT of climbers and is brilliant at what he does.
30
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Suggestions for theshortspan front page
« on: April 02, 2012, 02:35:53 PM »
Yeah, loads of people say Facebook has dropped in popularity and people say they don't check it anymore and so on - but they do and for my money, the Irish climbing scene thrives on Facebook. Almost 100% of the climbing news/photos/events that I come across is through Facebook.
That's just the reality.
Maybe I'll make myself in charge of posting your interesting blog posts up on FB!!!!
And yeah Barry!, When are we gonna see a Cork based blog!!!!!!!
That's just the reality.
Maybe I'll make myself in charge of posting your interesting blog posts up on FB!!!!
And yeah Barry!, When are we gonna see a Cork based blog!!!!!!!