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Messages - Stephen McMullan

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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Dawes v Boulder Pads
« on: June 01, 2012, 09:58:38 AM »
All of the above can be translated into bouldering. You take a highball problem with a bad landing. One person says the risk is unjustifiable and advocates building and using a platform, another says that the risk is as much a part of the boulder problem as anything else and chooses to do without the aid of a platform. Something similar(-ish) did occur a couple of seasons back up north.

The point is still valid. One can choose to limit oneself to a specific approach but you'd be a wiser and better climber to at least acknowledge the existence and the validity of the others.

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Dawes v Boulder Pads
« on: May 31, 2012, 05:20:07 PM »
I completely disagree with that. Its every bit as limited an outlook as the inverse. The headgames in doing something adventurous and risky can be every bit as rewarding as sequencing a couple of moves. Personally I don't bother justifying one over the other as its all very personal as to what you want at the end of the day. Make your choice and stick with it. You'll know when you've figured it out when you cease to be surprised or threated by what other folks do.  ;)

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Dawes v Boulder Pads
« on: May 31, 2012, 09:44:18 AM »
There was a time when top roping, practice, pre-inspection and even the use of chalk or getting beta never mind the use of pads was looked on as pure cowardice and downright cheating. Ah the good old days...  ;D

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Dawes v Boulder Pads
« on: May 31, 2012, 09:06:30 AM »
What was the context? You have to remember where and possibly more importantly when he comes from. A lot of very bold short routes of yesteryear are now highball boulder problems and the more pads you bring the safer they are. He may feel that is a degradation of their status and his perspective may be nothing to do with "modern" bouldering.

Anyways couldn't make the show last night? How was it?

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Electronic version of the guide
« on: May 29, 2012, 09:19:19 AM »
Sé O'Hanlon was just on to me about adding an ePub export extension to the wiki. Of course the info in the routes database is a lot more textual and an order of magnitude less images than the bouldering guide. I'm not familiar with ePub either but I promised Sé I'd take a look - well on a Samsung Galaxy S anyway.

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Electronic version of the guide
« on: May 28, 2012, 02:34:12 PM »
If the electronic version rendered well on the phone, I'd say you could have quite a few sales to folks who also bought the printed guide if the price was a fiver, just for the convenience.

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Electronic version of the guide
« on: May 28, 2012, 01:13:30 PM »
Dave, I'd watermark or password lock the pdf with the name or email address of the purchaser.

That way if its passed on to a third party there is the double deterrent i.e. the identity of the person passing it on can be obtained and the person receiving can be embarrassed i.e. "you cheap skanky fecker would you not even pay the man €5 to get your own!!!"

Not real security but social ostracisation might induce fair play.


You need to install Strava on your phone Trish for your spins. Sure where would we be without stats, numbers, rankings and competition!!!

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Bouldering pad
« on: May 10, 2012, 11:10:19 AM »
Whats the best/cheapest bouldering pad? and where to buy in Ireland?
Don't tell me you're still using that feckin doormat you had from years back. Get a Red Chilli pad, very nice for the larger gentleman or for the not so large but taking a mahoosive drop. Take a loan of mine. Its in my lockup and hasn't seen much action lately.

Can Diarmuid do them?  ;D

Folks seem to have got caught on trad grades. I was also referring to sports routes. Just as many grading divisions to choose from etc.

Ah I dunno Dave. I have difficulty in distinguishing between very easy routes e.g. VDiff and Severe but there are folks who know exactly the distinction because they climb so many at that grade. Splitting hairs to me, big difference to them. Similarly I've met some top class climbers and I do believe routes at the top end are very subjective and conditions dependent. Perhaps they are approaching bouldering with a rope in terms of difficulty. Even in the middle grades there are routes that are subjective due to unorthodox technique and the phrase "verging on ungradeable" gets mentioned but they still get a grade. At the end of the day its not that different, its still moving over stone in one form or another. I take your point about divisions but the answer to that is more opinions from more climbers as they acquire more experience. It'll hone in on accuracy eventually.

This has gone all a bit odd if you don't mind me saying so...

I really fail to see whats so hard about grading boulders in Ireland. Or why folks get so precious about it. Why is it different to how problems are graded in Wales, Peak, Lakes, Font etc? What is it different to grading climbs? All the same arguments pro and con exist but somehow we just get on with it and come up with a result. Every argument that you could possibly come up with has its equivalent in trad and sports climbing and yes there are folks who say its all about the line, feck the grade and there are those for whom the number is a personal achievement. Good luck to them all and why not.

I'm reasonably sure I could register on, claim an ascent of Karma and offer a grade as a repeater. But I won' need to have a bit more faith in the community. There are far less eejits out there to skew the curve than you might expect.

That apple and oranges argument doesn't wash. There are E4 slabs, overhangs, cracks and corners. No two climbs are alike and the grade is arrived at by exactly the method it should i.e. proferred opinions, comparison, experience, consensus and time.

I don't think anyone is looking for 100% accuracy. Even with routes you hear expression like "easy tick", "soft for the grade" or "value for money". But they are in and around the grade give or take. Most folks can live with the paradox.

I can't see the grade of popular problems changing much. However you could well do with the input for stuff that doesn't get repeated so often. Why discourage it?

We're not talking about democracy here in picking the grade of a problem, thats not what was intended as I understand it but it would be unwise to close the door on feedback from the folks who are able to provide it.

Anyways I'm not sure i'm entitled to an opinion, last time I climbed Chillax, Superswinger etc they were graded 7a  :P

Just my 2c


Very true and its quite probable that I'm just a lazy hoor with a short [attention] span (geddit?) . Sure he produced a guidebook. He probably is a zealot who could complete a task!

I can guarantee that it will drive Dave F to tears, been there done that with the old route database on, thats why I said fuck it, tore it down and put in the wiki and said do it yourselves. What and ukclimbing have is amazing but believe me a LOT of toil, years of effort, went into it. I decided life was too short for that malarky. Zealot required.

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