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Messages - Paul Brennan

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It was less of a challenge for John to climb the problem, it was his choice to impose his ethic on the situation.

Hang on, one guy preventing any other person from climbing on a piece of rock indefinitely is having his rights violated?

Requesting, not preventing. And it was a request which was wearing thin. 4 years is a long time. Had you talked to Dave about the problem and the "ban" for want of a better word?

Despite that, climbing is about more than just the rock. Its a community activity, and as such, empathy and respect are important.

Couldn't agree more, cuts both ways though

Very fair

Its an objectively pointless sport anyway, why not give up the notion of the big self and revel in the frivolity?

What's your point here Paul? What are you referring to by "the big self" No clue how this supports Dave's stance - I enjoy the frivolity of climbing as much as the next guy, in fact, I enjoy it so much that when I see a beautiful problem I try and have fun and climb on it! My self worth and identity isn't hinged upon being the first person to climb a small rock sitting on a big rock hurtling through the void

I'm not 100% behind Dave's stance. This was directed at Dave's apparent requirement for the FA to stay motivated to work for the problem. Which, like Chris, I think is misguided. But I like to see people pushing themselves. If I had been in the same position I don't think I would have climbed it because that would set back someone else's motivation. I see how thats prioritising the few over the many, but in that case I think its what I would have done. Its not an opinion that everyone will share.

I hope Dave keeps trying the problem.

View from a decommissioned punter on the bench:

On balance, and its a close run thing, I don't think John should have climbed it.

Knowing that Dave's motivation was deeply linked to the process of finding, cleaning, sorting the landing to finally getting the FA, I think it was a disrespectful thing to do. Particularly given the differing levels of ability (John's being above most of the rest of us), and Dave's current layoff through injury. Also considering the longer term social currency of Dave's contribution to Wicklow bouldering, including putting a rake of projects in the guide, which many authors wouldn't have done.

I get the point that the immediate physical experience that Dave would have of climbing on that bit of rock would be the same. But the larger experience of climbing that bit of rock, given how much he's invested in it, is undeniably changed.

Basically, the way I look at it is that the problem was pushing Dave to up his game and climb something harder than he'd done before. John's base level is higher, and his view on first ascents is obviously different. It was less of a challenge for John to climb the problem, it was his choice to impose his ethic on the situation. Just because you can, and want to, doesn't mean you always should. I think the passion and motivation of others should be respected. There is a point to be made about "protectionism" and "local only areas", but I don't think they apply here. This was a single problem in an out of the way area that Dave had put a lot of work into.

On the flip side, the "Closed Project" gentlemanly agreement status was wearing thin after 4 years, and Dave had publicized the thing quite a bit, so something like this happening was a definite possibility.

Despite that, climbing is about more than just the rock. Its a community activity, and as such, empathy and respect are important.

Finally, I want to say that first ascents don't mean that much to me, but some of my most memorable experiences are first ascents. Personally, I think theres a perverse glory in the second ascent. Its an objectively pointless sport anyway, why not give up the notion of the big self and revel in the frivolity?

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Fat Bastard continues to break holds
« on: April 29, 2013, 05:49:38 PM »
Nice to know its not just me!

Bouldering Discussion / Switch hold breakage
« on: April 25, 2013, 06:17:22 PM »
Was playing around on this the other day, and one of the first times I pulled on, a couple of wobbly bits fell off the starting left hand sidepull. The hold is now a bit longer, and a bit better of an undercut when you're higher on it. Should someone have a notion that what was once, shall always be, the pieces are still up there.

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Bouldering meet 1/2/3th March CANCELLED
« on: February 28, 2013, 01:29:00 PM »
Bummer. I can see your point though Dave. Could you answer something thats been bugging me for years though....where the f&*$ is that hold on the '08 poster?

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Bouldering meet 1/2/3th March
« on: February 22, 2013, 06:44:19 AM »
I'll be there. Ankle will probably still be too knackered to climb, but the meet is always fun

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Dawes v Boulder Pads
« on: May 31, 2012, 09:11:23 PM »
Have to agree with Steve here Trish. The point of climbing isn't always the moves you do. Low to mid height bouldering, and sport climbing are there if you just want to test your physical limits. Other kinds of climbing can challenge different limits. Mental strength, misery/pain tolerance, even boredom threshold. For some people, myself included, it would all be a bit pointless if there was no consequence. Thats not to say I want to die, or search out particularly risky things to do. The idea is to put yourself in a position with a certain amount of consequence and learn something from how you deal with it. If you want something largely inconsequential, go sport climbing.

The, for want of a better word, "adventure" element in climbing is what makes it a bit different to other sports. Personally I don't think climbing should be considered a sport in the true meaning of the word.

The whole pad thing boils down to the person really. If you want to get that sketchy E7 tick, no pads. If you want a highball 7b, use as many pads as you can get your hands on. If you just want to do the moves, use a toprope. Personal choice.

Edit: Beat me to the punch Dave. I agree.

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Electronic version of the guide
« on: May 29, 2012, 11:20:18 PM »
an app is a lot of work. And I'm not sure what it would do over and above what a PDF of the guide does.

All it would need to be is an animation of Chris's face saying " (insert grade here)? You've got to be joking. 5+ max" It'd give a sense of the full Irish bouldering experience.

In terms of digital guides, I think pdf is the way to go. I have the Yosemite and Squamish bigwall guides on my phone (HTC sensation) and can read them fine as pdfs. You can get Adobe reader for your phone for free. Epub would be better for a kindle or other e reader type thing, but I certainly wouldn't bring a kindle to glendo!

Nice one on selling all the guides.

Bouldering Discussion / Re: get your bouldering news here
« on: May 29, 2012, 11:06:38 PM »
Nice work on both accounts. 3* arete is a fantastic problem. Great location, strong line, looks easy, feels desperate!

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Apples versus Oranges
« on: April 30, 2012, 06:45:14 PM »
What, no option for bananas?

From my experience as an idiot abroad for the last 2 months, Irish grades do feel stiff compared to things I've done here.  I do think its harder to grade Irish-type problems accurately. Mostly due the technical nature of the climbing at home, like Jim mentioned. I hadn't realised how big a factor this is until I went bouldering in North America. If you can crimp hard and campus you can probably climb about V10 in Bishop and about 6a in Glendo.

Sandbagging at home does have its plus sides however, as everything over here feels very easy for the grade. Which I have been enjoying immensely.

Regardless of grades, I think the more important issue is to settle on a suitably 'gangsta' moniker for a certain diminutive beast with the initials JH. So far I've seen JHard and JoHo. Unfortunately, JStar is already taken. J-Hiddy? A consensus is needed.

Bouldering Discussion / Re: News: Only 20 guides left
« on: April 12, 2012, 05:55:32 AM »
I reckon you should hang onto a couple and flog em on ebay for a vastly inflated price in a few years....just before you put out a second edition  :P

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Videos etc
« on: April 12, 2012, 05:53:43 AM »
Nice Larry The Goat's vid Barry. Cool place innit? I really rate the Waterford coastal stuff.

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Best Aretes in Wicklow
« on: April 11, 2012, 04:13:15 AM »
If you're not averse to a bit of a stroll, there's a few nice aretes up by arts lough above glenmalure. Musophobia looks very good.

Haven't done it. Dropped it from the slot crimp thing. I was finding the hardest move to be sticking that sidepull sloper thing with the right hand. Only got through it once. 7A+ would be in the realms of possibility I guess, but it feels very hard to me.

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