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Bouldering Discussion / Lemon Sole
« on: April 18, 2014, 08:38:51 PM »
How hard to people think it is? Has it changed much since it was first done?
Is it actually hard but just quite similar to steep board climbing making it feel ok and secure?
Interested to hear what people think who've climbed it...
Is it actually hard but just quite similar to steep board climbing making it feel ok and secure?
Interested to hear what people think who've climbed it...
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: get your bouldering news here
« on: April 18, 2014, 08:21:25 PM »
Don't think he did "The Pit" more like a left exit from the starting holds of the project...
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Significant Repeats
« on: October 27, 2013, 03:30:59 PM »
Space Machine 7C - The Scalp - Dave Mason, Ricky Bell, John Howard
Anyone done Superbock?
Maybe it would be easier to write down a list of 7's and 8's and note the known ascentionists beside them?
Would make for interesting reading
Anyone done Superbock?
Maybe it would be easier to write down a list of 7's and 8's and note the known ascentionists beside them?
Would make for interesting reading
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Highballs
« on: October 27, 2013, 03:25:57 PM »
Agree with Baz on The Gnasher... I had a load of solos - some of which would count as Highballs:
Erewhon, Holymoac Direct (beside Erewhon), Pilaster, crash landing, Cruise Arete (Excellent above pad!), Solitary Confinement (Hard trad 6b crux that is a highball problem - 5c tech finish(ish)), Space Shuttle, Voltas Vortic Vector, The Rack (beside dirty dick), Everything on Ivy Wall
Erewhon, Holymoac Direct (beside Erewhon), Pilaster, crash landing, Cruise Arete (Excellent above pad!), Solitary Confinement (Hard trad 6b crux that is a highball problem - 5c tech finish(ish)), Space Shuttle, Voltas Vortic Vector, The Rack (beside dirty dick), Everything on Ivy Wall
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Blue rope hand rail in the Scalp
« on: August 02, 2013, 09:37:48 PM »
It's been moving around on that hillside all year - was above LDF in Jan then above Space Machine in April - it's a shortcut for the beer shoppers playing paintball on the top of the hill
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Bouldering Discussion / Fat Bastard continues to break holds
« on: April 29, 2013, 10:22:11 AM »
Broke the thumb catch and good foot off leviathan, low on problem - I confess! Still climbs as was but work continues
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Join Boulder-group
« on: June 24, 2012, 03:10:27 PM »
Hi!
Bumped into Harry this morning at the Scalp - sound and psyched! If anyones heading out Wicklow direction or Caveward perhaps give him a shout, he sounds keen to sample the best of Irish
Dave
Bumped into Harry this morning at the Scalp - sound and psyched! If anyones heading out Wicklow direction or Caveward perhaps give him a shout, he sounds keen to sample the best of Irish
Dave
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Dawes v Boulder Pads
« on: June 01, 2012, 08:54:36 PM »
Having spoken with Johnny a fair deal on these topics heres what i think he meant by his comments:
He admitted dragging a mattress to a crag once before the invention of Pads to try a bold solo and he said if pads were around he would of probably used them.
His issue with the development of pad use to ground up routes is this.... These routes were done in the best style possible at the time. The climbers did their best to make them safe - or at least safe enough for them to mentally undertake. With all the advances in equuipment, standards and training, Johnny would ideally like to see advances in mental control too least all the strong climbers forget how to handle danger and fear. Johnny developed his boldness while leading the smaller grit routes and then transfered this skill onto the much higher mountain crags and sea cliffs. Imagine if the V14 strong climber types only soloed safe routes on grit - they'd fall to bits on a larger more serious route (one that pads couldn't protect). It would signify the end of development in terms of hard trad. A true step forward in terms of style would be for the strongest climbers to attempt the harder bolder lines ground up solo or on lead.
It's the beauty of trad in a way - you not only need to be able to do the moves, you need to be able to fully KNOW you can and will do the moves. It's the mixture of head games and difficulty that make it different.
If you wanted to climb a bit of rock at any costs and not risk injury - pads or toprope. If you want the full experience of climbing the route up that bit of rock then it's a lead or solo without pads.
He admitted dragging a mattress to a crag once before the invention of Pads to try a bold solo and he said if pads were around he would of probably used them.
His issue with the development of pad use to ground up routes is this.... These routes were done in the best style possible at the time. The climbers did their best to make them safe - or at least safe enough for them to mentally undertake. With all the advances in equuipment, standards and training, Johnny would ideally like to see advances in mental control too least all the strong climbers forget how to handle danger and fear. Johnny developed his boldness while leading the smaller grit routes and then transfered this skill onto the much higher mountain crags and sea cliffs. Imagine if the V14 strong climber types only soloed safe routes on grit - they'd fall to bits on a larger more serious route (one that pads couldn't protect). It would signify the end of development in terms of hard trad. A true step forward in terms of style would be for the strongest climbers to attempt the harder bolder lines ground up solo or on lead.
It's the beauty of trad in a way - you not only need to be able to do the moves, you need to be able to fully KNOW you can and will do the moves. It's the mixture of head games and difficulty that make it different.
If you wanted to climb a bit of rock at any costs and not risk injury - pads or toprope. If you want the full experience of climbing the route up that bit of rock then it's a lead or solo without pads.
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Fairhead Meet
« on: May 25, 2012, 04:11:02 PM »
I might be heading up and will take a few pads - not too sure what'll catch my eye once there though
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Grades - because it's raining and people have broadband
« on: May 19, 2012, 08:23:00 AM »
http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2012/05/using-natural-method.html
Interesting post about a hard FA in scotland and mentions differences in grading systems. Apparently Scottish Font 8B is harder than Swizz Font 8C... who'd a thunk?
Interesting post about a hard FA in scotland and mentions differences in grading systems. Apparently Scottish Font 8B is harder than Swizz Font 8C... who'd a thunk?
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Problems that require a cusp
« on: May 18, 2012, 07:15:28 PM »
The top of Smokey and the bandits - i cusp the shit outa that mofo 
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Bouldering Discussion / Re: Glenmalure
« on: May 16, 2012, 12:55:52 PM »
You know it could be... I'll go check