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Messages - Dave Flanagan

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1
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Two Boulders at Seapoint
« on: June 23, 2019, 10:15:01 PM »
Yep see the new problem database. Search for Seapoint. http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php

2
Bouldering Discussion / Closing forum
« on: October 05, 2018, 08:48:26 AM »
I'm hoping to start posting more Irish bouldering news on threerockbooks.com rather than theshortspan as I don't want to maintain two sites. So I'm moving all the blog contents, new problem database over there. As this forum has been very quiet I think I'm just going to close it. People can contact me via email or on FB, instgram, twitter. There is also an Irish bouldering page on facebook which might be of use for general questions and discussion.

3
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Incorrect name on problem in database
« on: June 30, 2018, 07:19:30 PM »
It has to be done manually. I will sort it.

4
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Bouldering pad near Dublin
« on: August 13, 2017, 07:04:08 AM »
Gravity Climbing Centre rent pads. Get in touch with them.

5
Thanks Luke. Hope the trip goes well. Actually I think the plan has changed and I'm going to wait until I have time to do a major update in the spring.

6
I've almost out of copies of Bouldering in Ireland and need to do another print run. I don't have time to do a major update - I will do one next time - however I'm going to make a few minor changes and tweaks.

I plan to replace the grid references with longitude/latitudes as I think they are more useful.

If anyone has spotted any errors, typos etc. or has any suggestions for tweaks then please let me know.

Thanks
Dave

7
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Futher away from the numbers
« on: July 24, 2017, 01:11:42 PM »
The starting hold?

8
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Best crowded boulder spot
« on: March 28, 2017, 08:55:05 AM »
Hi Hauke
There are problably only two areas where you could show up at the weekend and have a good chance of meeting other boulderers - Glendalough and Fair Head. You could wild camp near each of them, no problem.
Dave

9
Bouldering Discussion / Re: Log Books
« on: March 18, 2017, 02:39:21 PM »
There isn't any that are widely used. If you want to get in touch with me I can help you put together a PDF which I think is the best way to share information about a new area. If you want to add them here http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php

10
Thanks for posting Barry.
Maybe the term is very rarely used, but I think a lot of problems are de facto closed projects. The closure exists as an implicit agreement between friends.

I agree 100% that publicity was the issue. After all you can't climb a problem if you don't know that it exists. But I don't think it's correct to say that I publicised it widely. The most I ever said online was that it was in Glenmalure which considering the length of valley isn't really giving away much. I told a few people about it, as I trusted them, but obviously word slipped out, granted I didn't swear them to silence or anything. I accept that publicising it widely would be rubbing it in people's faces and not very wise, but I really don't think I did that.

I will have to use NDAs from now on or just keep my mouth shut.

As to it being a non-issue you are probably right on that. I can easily imagine how it would seem like a storm in a teacup.

11
It's a pity that more people haven't offered their opinion on the general issue and no clear consensus has emerged even among the few who have posted.

I'm not really interested in further discussing the specifics of the Glenmalure Wall, now known as The Rebel's Wall by the way, but I can assure John and others who don't have any time for closed projects that information it's inevitable that information isn't going to flow as easily in the future and I think that is a pity. 



12
If Dave cant find enough 'glory' now in doing the stand start someday then i wonder why he boulders. I hope you're not going to walk away from this problem now Dave, that would speak volumes...


I'm not sure what you are getting at Chris. But if I do walk away from this problem then all it will mean is that, without the lure of a first ascent, I'm no longer as motivated by it.

TheShortSpan: How much esteem do you place in the first ascend of a problem, are you only interested in your first (and subsequent) ascent of the problem?
JohnGill: My approach in the 1950s and 1960s centered on exploration and first ascents. I was never very interested in doing something that had already been done, when there was so much out there to discover so many untried problems to solve.

From http://threerockbooks.com/index.php/interview-with-john-gill/


Quote
the interested party is maybe a half dozen people, their lives aren't somehow rendered incomplete because that haven't been able to climb it


Couldn't this argument be used against you? has your life been rendered incomplete that someone climbed this one rock when you have done many first ascents and will do more?


I don't think it really can. Missing out a FA is a little different then missing out on the chance to repeat a problem.

And no my life hasn't been rendered incomplete.

13
Good post Mikey. I thing the race analogy is pretty good but flawed. The thing is that there isn't just one race, there are lots of them, they can start at any time, and people are free to choose which races they take part in, there is no reason why it can't be one person per race ie. it doesn't need to be race.

The point I'm making is that it's not like this was the only boulder problem in the county and that all the other the other boulderers were just standing around waiting for me to do it. There is a huge amount of good stuff out there, maybe better stuff, I don't know, so why not focus on that stuff.

All that said I understand your point of view.

14
I don't know is it just me but the forum roll (new forum posts) never appears on the frontpage of theshortspan (I'm using chrome), I have to click into the forum through the link in the banner to see any new posts.. Might explain the lack of use the last while.

Probably be nice to have a similar roll for the new problem database.

Thanks Barry. I have sorted it, I haven't added a roll for the new problem database, if someone who knows a bit of php and wordpress want to do it great.

15
Thanks Mikey for your comments.

Would it have made you feel better or worse if you'd found out some random tourist climber who rented pad for the weekend stumbled across it and climbed it.

I would feel a little better. The tourist didn't intentionally go out to climb something that they knew someone else, who they knew personally, was working. Whether you believe in closed projects or not, I think you have to agree that that adds an extra bit of sting to it.

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