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Messages - chris rooney

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I completely understand the desire to be the 'best' but i think its silly to just want to be the 'first'.


I'm not going to engage into an argument on the definition of 'glory'.

I assume you perfectly understood that I was referring to self esteem.

If you don't like that word either, how about amour-propre, arrogance, complacence, complacency, conceit, conceitedness, dignity, ego, egotism, pedantry, pride, self-congratulation, self-regard, self-respect, self-satisfaction, smugness, vanity...

But now, you're going to tell me that you don't have any of these, right? He who is without sin among you, let him be the first to throw a boulder at me.

Wishing you a good night and the best weather conditions for the weekend ;-)


PS: I don't know what 'burning off people' means but you must since you keep using that word.

Like it or not a first ascent is special, and does mean something. A culmination of finding something, not knowing if its possible or how difficult or easy it might be, and then finding a way to do it is a very enjoyable experience. Everybody likes enjoyable experiences and without someone doing new stuff there would be nothing to do. But it means little in the context of bouldering itself and actually dilutes the singular experience of 'just' climbing that bouldering provides. I'm sure some people would call that 'dilution' 'enrichment' instead...but they are usually trad climbers. Even sport climbers have plenty of added faffing which usually makes them appreciate achieving their goals even more. But bouldering, more than any other climbing 'style', is most concerned with moving over rock at the exclusion of as many external factors as possible.

First ascents are great - but i'd rather do a cool move on rock, new or not.

Regarding this situation - Four years is absolutely ridiculous to be honest. I think most people would respect someone trying a project they discovered for a year, no matter how beyond them it was, but four years with no end in sight?

And talk of 'Glory'? we're fucking adults here, not teenagers, glory my arse. If Dave cant find enough 'glory' now in doing the stand start someday then i wonder why he boulders. I hope you're not going to walk away from this problem now Dave, that would speak volumes...

Basically, the way I look at it is that the problem was pushing Dave to up his game and climb something harder than he'd done before

Paul - it still should? It's Dave's problem alone if it doesnt. I dont think it's normal to want to get better for the 'glory'... its bloody childish!

Plus I don't think that there is suddenly going to dozens of climbers queueing up to do the problem, the interested party is maybe a half dozen people, their lives aren't somehow rendered incomplete because that haven't been able to climb it, and anyway there are many, many great unclimbed problems out there, plenty to go around (some of which I have found on my travels and shared with others).

Couldn't this argument be used against you? has your life been rendered incomplete that someone climbed this one rock when you have done many first ascents and will do more?

I don't think that this whole thing is equivalent to the Germans rushing out at dawn to put their towels on the best deckchairs, I see it more about respecting the efforts of a fellow climber. Imagine someone spend the whole day arranging dominoes, is it right that they get to be the one to knock the first one over?

Lastly I'm not saying that every new problem should be a closed project, far from it, but in certain situations I think its worth considering the idea of giving someone the time to see out something that they started.

respect already got you 4 years...1 is enough

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Lemon Sole
« on: April 22, 2014, 04:02:50 PM »
felt like the hardest thing i had done when i did it, and i had done a couple of 7b+ in font around then.  could easily imagine the crimps and footholds changing since though

Bouldering Discussion / Re: get your bouldering news here
« on: April 22, 2014, 03:44:33 PM »
would be nice to see some i the only one finding it diffcult to imagine a 'left exit' of a 2 move boulder problem ?!

Bouldering Discussion / blog roll
« on: April 10, 2014, 10:22:13 AM »
gone again?

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Blog Roll
« on: December 20, 2013, 11:43:52 AM »
blog roll was very handy, good to see it back!

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Videos etc
« on: May 02, 2013, 04:08:18 PM »
another font vid..

Just Another Font Movie on Vimeo

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Rathmines Co-op looking for new members
« on: November 23, 2012, 10:25:15 PM »
the schoolroom was infamous as it was so hardcore. also while we're picking holes isnt a barrel completely round?

Bouldering Discussion / Rathmines Co-op looking for new members
« on: November 22, 2012, 04:50:56 PM »

Inspired by Sheffield's infamous Schoolroom, the Co-op was designed and conceived by Michael Duffy in response to Dublin's lack of training facilities. 4 years on the original Co-op still remains the premier spot to get strong in Dublin.

Main features of the venue are:

24hour x 365day access

65msq  (11.5m x 5.6m x 4.5m high)

20, 30, 45 and Barrel shaped boards

Campus Board, 2 Fingerboards (incl. Beastmaker 2000)

Free weights, couches, toilet

Rent is currently €30/month

Email us to arrange a visit and check it out

More info and photos etc can be found here:


Chris Rooney

Bouldering Discussion / Re: get your bouldering news here
« on: November 03, 2012, 09:37:22 PM »
John Howard just crushed John 3:16, 8A in the coolies, for the second (?) ascent.

BOOM etc

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Fair Head Bouldering Guide
« on: October 04, 2012, 12:24:57 PM »
the pros of 27crags outweigh the likelihood of them profiting from the data IMHO. l will keep sticking photos etc up there as it looks good - i like clicking on a problem and seeing grade opinions/photos/comments etc and currently no where else offers a facility like this that anyone can contribute to. if they tried to produce a guide with the info they collect it would be a piece of shit so i think it's rather alarmist to worry about it. Also an easy way to mitigate this would be if Dave actually updated the digital edition with new routes. how hard would that be now its all digital? It would also ensure the shortspan stays the defacto place to record new routes.

re: facebook fairhead bouldering guide - i'm not sure i get its purpose? is it for publishing info? for new routes? an ad for a physical guide to be published? or just a nice gallery of fairhead photos?

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Videos etc
« on: September 26, 2012, 12:43:48 PM »
jesus that takes me back! at least 15 years. sometimes i forget dalkey quarry exists

Bouldering Discussion / Re: Videos etc
« on: September 20, 2012, 10:01:47 PM »
5 from Devon and Cornwall on Vimeo

little vid of some blocs in Devon and Cornwall

Bouldering Discussion / Re: News: Ricky Bell climbs 8a in Fair Head
« on: September 13, 2012, 04:40:49 PM »
about 5 seconds, i've robbed it from the infamous ukbouldering thread

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