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Messages - divil

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Bouldering Discussion / Broken Hold
« on: July 23, 2012, 07:50:42 PM »
Dear All,

Was out on Lemon Sole yesterday evening; unfortunately a fairly large chunk came off one of the lower holds (on the left). We left the hold up beside it, beyond high tide mark, so its there if anyone wants to try a repair job. It doesn't really seem to affect the moves or overall grade as far as I can see, although I think the 2nd/3rd move (depending on how you do it) now needs to be a bit more precise. Apologies, no harm was meant


Hi all, very much enjoying the debate and learning quite a bit about peoples bouldering perceptions, etc. . . . which is always useful. I'm unsure as to whether the following is a questions or a comment on my behalf, but I'd appreciate peoples opinions: I have always percieved bouldering grades as being "flash grades" i.e. that is the grade of the problem the first time you walk up and sit in front of it, without tick marks, beta, etc etc. . . . ??? For example, I spent many evenings last summer out to the Scalp working Dark Angle SS; everytime I didn't get it it seemed hard and probably worth its 7a (maybe 6c+?), it's technical, with a burly first move  . . . . . however, by the time I got it (and all the times since), it doesn't feel like a 7a (in my head), but I won't easily forget those evenings on my ass in front of it - I feel very similarly about Chillax, Gullys Problem, etc etc i.e. before I got them, they definitely felt thier grade but after they didn't anymore. . . . . . is this why certain climbs are being downgraded. . . . people are getting stronger, etc. . . . . personally I think DA SS at 6b+ does it a dis-service, but really I don't want to focus on one problem, just using it as an example.


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