TheShortSpan

Bouldering in Ireland

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Please submit any new problems to the database. When the describing new problems in relation to existing problem mention the version of the guide used.

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Name Grade County Area Boulder/Sector Description First Ascentist FA date
- 4 Wicklow Glendasan Zeifs Boulder Zeifs Boulder is 50m down the road from the IMC Hut in the forest on the left hand side. This problem goes up the face using the good ledge. Dave Flanagan Jan 2008
The Wave 5A Kerry Black Valley Bone Yard Boulder Sit start on the left. Finish at the right side. Damien O Sullivan March 08
Coup d'Etat 6c Wicklow Mall Hill Forest Arete to the right of 'Living the dream'. Pierre Fuentes April 08
Piece de resistance 6b Wicklow Mall Hill Hill Left side RHS round arete to the right of Dublin-Beauvais. Left hand done by Michael Duffy Grade to confirm. Pierre Fuentes April 08
Homeward Bound 7c? Antrim Fairhead Murlough Bay Sit start to 'Eat it left' Starting on an undercut with big reach to crimp rail on eat it left. (As seen in Underdeveloped.) James Pearson 2006
Fliddy the Postoffice cat 6c? Antrim Fairhead Murlough Bay On the 'When Molesy Met Melkor' boulder. Start on the jugs of Molesy then throw out to the crimp up and left. (Molesy Met Melkor goes straight up the middle of the boulder using a crux undercut for the right hand.) ? ?
- 6a+ Wicklow Glendasan Zeif's Boulder The very slopey right arete. Climbs best if the obvious starting foothold is used with the right foot. Dave Flanagan Jan 2008
Living the Dream 6b Wicklow Mall Hill Forest Up the steep face. Diarmuid Smyth 2005
Crack Cradle 6a+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Glanakia boulder Up to juggy break then long dynamic move to below lip and over the bulge. Diarmuid Smyth 2005
Pea Brain 6b Donegal Polldoo Glen Butterbean Lay back the obvious/easiest arete. Diarmuid Smyth 2007
Bone Yard Arete 6A Kerry Black Valley Bone Yard Boulder Start with crimps for the left and side pull for the right. Damien O Sullivan March 08
Bone Yard Arete - Sit Start 6C Kerry Black Valley Bone Yard Boulder Sit start, two hands on the large flat hold. Eoin Kennedy April 08
Kev's Nose 5B Kerry Black Valley Kev's Nose Sit start below the steep arete Kevin O' Leary March 08
Flash Dance Slab - Right 6A Kerry Black Valley Flash Dance Slab Follow the vertical crimps to the top. - Feb 07
Sé's Crack 5 Wicklow Glenmalure Sé's Boulder Climb the crack in the middle of the face. Dave Flanagan Feb 2008
Cavalier Attitude 5+ Wicklow Glenmalure Fraughan Boulder Tackles the arete on the left hand side. Ped McMahon Feb 2008
Big Boots 5+ Wicklow Glenmalure Waterfall Boulder Mantle onto the left hand side of the slab. Ped McMahon Feb 2008
Silent Valley 6a Wicklow Mall Hill - Opposite side of the road to the rest of the bouldering, SV goes up the front face of the solitary boulder. Dave Flanagan Dec 2006
Under the wire 5+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Beside Lough Nahanagan The left arete from a SS of the boulder beside the lake across from Electric Mountain. Dave Flanagan June 2007
Luminous Orange 6a Wicklow Wicklow Gap Above Lough Nahanagan On the hillside above Lough Nahanagan is a boulder with a distinctive diagonal crack climb this using a very nice pinch. Ped McMahon June 2007
Fat Belly 6a+ Dublin Bullock West Side The overhanging wall in the narrow gully, nice moves on rounded edges. Dave Flanagan Mar 2007
A little saucy 5 Wicklow Glendalough - Starting from the good holds left of 'the rails' climb the arete moving around to the left to finish. Not the best landing and the direct/right hand version would be much better. Tom O'Rourke 7 3 2008
The Sharp Arete 7a Wicklow Lough Bray - Sit start to boulder (no name 7a) very near Big Ron. Use the sharp arete (very low) for the right and the very small edge for the left. Damian Kawiorski May 08
Mickey's traverse 7a Wicklow Stonecutter's Glen Split boulder Low traverse left on the very slopey edge Damian Kawiorski 5 May 2008
The Egg Traverse 7a+ Wicklow Glendalough Lower Path: The Egg Bloc Nice sitstart to the left of problem No. 7, traverse right along the sloping lip through problem No. 7 and finish as for the egg problem (no. 10) Barry O'Dwyer Spring, 08
Romantic Warrior 5c Dublin Bulloch Harbour - - Peter McMahon July 2007
Bullet 6a wicklow off glenmacnass road - North face, Highball. Peter McMahon 2007
Crolly Crack SS 5+ Donegal Hidden Valley Boulders The one with the crack Sit start hand on big sidepull in crack.Delicate finger lock heaven.A boulderers dream??? R Hunter June 2008
Mickeys Traverse SS 7a+ Wicklow Stonecutters Glen Split Sit start arete and low traverse left on the very slopey edge Damian Kawiorski May 2008
The Razors Edge SS 7a+ Wicklow Stonecutters Glen Split North face. SS Start middle the very small roof. Use the arete for the left and the edge for the right Damian Kawiorski May 2008
Aerosmith 6a+ Wicklow Louhg Bray Grand Hotel The overhanding steep wall. Use the arete for the left and crack for the right. Problem is on the left from the Easily Taken Away. Damian Kawiorski July 2007
Hostel 5 Wicklow Lough Bray Grand Hotel The overhanding slab Damian Kawiorski July 2007
- 5 Wicklow Glendalough beyond Big Jane Tall boulder inscree southwest of Big Jane:
left arete of the overhanging face Pierre Fuentes 22/05/08
- 5 Wicklow Glendo beyond Big Jane The same tall boulder in the scree southwest of Big Jane: the side facing the river.
Pierre Fuentes 28/05/08
Under the Wing 5a Wicklow Glendasan Vulture rock Broken up boulder on the right of new st. kevins trail heading downstream from the mining village. From the trail the north side of the boulder looks like a vulture. Sit start under overhang to gain the slab. Lovely problem. Calliam Johnson 22/06/08
Builders crack 4 wicklow Glendasan Builders Bum Boulder Slab with prominent crack down the middle. From the bridge at the carpark at glendasan mining village can be seen on the left a blob boulder with a crack in it. It looks to small to be climbable but round the back (east face) is the slab. Ciaran Mulhall 22/06/08
Ron Burgundy Arete 5b wicklow Glendasan Stay Classy Boulder Follow the new st. kevins trail from the mining village in glendasan to the bottom where the stone stairs stop. Look to your right and you will see the boulder beside the fence. The right hand side is touching the fence. The left arete to the top is Ron Burgandy arete, starts on obvios undercling, great arete !! Ciaran Mulhall 22/06/08
Jazz Flute 4 Wicklow Glendasan Stay Classy Boulder Follow the new st. kevins trail from the mining village in glendasan to the bottom where the stone stairs stop. Look to your right and you will see the boulder beside the fence. The right hand side is touching the fence. The centre of the slab on slopey crimpers either side of the quartz seam is Jazz Flute Calliam Johnson 22/06/08
Born Lippy 5+ Wicklow Glendalough The Ruins Block to the right of problem 26 (offwidth) in guide version 3. Hanging slab with obvious crack through the middle. Interesting start with thuggy moves on big sidepulls to gain slab. Paul Brennan June 08
Barney Rubble's Step Up 5a wicklow Glendasan Vulture rock On Vulture Rock, Sit Start to the left of the crack and over the nose, just to the right of under the wing Joe King 08/07/08
The Kings Arete 6a+ Wicklow Glendasan The King Boulder On the King Boulder 50 meters behind and to the right of Vulture Rock, triangular shaped boulder just over the fence. The left slopey arete using the undercling on the face, whilst smearing. The best of the new Glendasan problems yet !! Joe King 08/07/08
Too Itchy 4 Wicklow Glendasan The Kings Boulder The right arete of the king boulder, 50 meters to the right and behind vulture rock. Must be climbed under vicious and sustained midgey attack for authenticity !! 12 yr old Jamie Mulhall 08/07/08
Shit Stained Socks 3+ Wicklow Glendasan River Slabs Boulder The left side of the slab face on decent holds. 12 yr old Jamie Mulhall 08/07/08
Christ's Crux of Friction 5b Wicklow Glendasan The King Boulder Up the middle of the face of the king boulder. Follow the crack left on smears to the good jug, then follw the crack right, a long reach to the small crimp, feet up top out, class !! The reach feels a bit like the move on the rails glendalough Ciaran Mulhall 20/07/08
Slabbed In the Back 4c Wicklow Glendasan River Slabs Boulder The right side of the slabby face of the river slabs boulder. In the river roughly half way down the new stone/sleeper staircase in glendasan. Tiny crimps and smears lead to good crimpy rail. A nice eliminate would be to leave the crimpy rail out. Ciaran Mulhall 22/07/08
Boulderers of the Future ... I Bid You Good Day !! 4a Wicklow Glendasan River Slabs Boulder Sit start on the lowest hand holds, under the small overhang on the right arete of the slabby face of the river slabs boulder. Slap up to the nose and mantel. Ciaran Mulhall 22/07/08
The French Connection 7b Dublin Portrane The Arch Start on "Girls on Film" and bridge onto the Arch. Climb down and around the bottom of the Arch and finish onto "the Ear". 22 moves. Pierre Fuentes 24/07/08
The Lip 6a Wicklow Glendasan The Lip Boulder Visible from 3 quaters the way down the new st kevins trail up the hill are 3 boulders clumped together. The boulder on the left with the overhanging quartz face is the lip boulder. Sit start on slopers to right of lip, then traverse the lip right to left, turn the corner and finish up the arete. Nice Ciaran Mulhall 26/07/08
The Hawk 5a Wiclow Glendasan The Hawk boulder The Hawk boulder is at the opposite side of the road to the river, at the top right of the scree just under the main crag beside the slag heaps trail in Glendasan. The left side of the prominent arete is The Hawk. Ciaran Mulhall 24/07/08
Heart Flutter 5+ Wicklow Glendasan - The right hand of two boulders 200m up the hill opposite the Big River boulder. Straight up the obvious triangular face from under the vertical crack. Paul Brennan 26/7/08
step right up 4c wicklow glendasan moby brick follow mining trail up north side of the vally to the scree under the crags moby brick is quite obivious see pic on message board . step right up is the overlapping slab on the west face of the boulder Calliam Johnson 24/07/08
crater face 4+ Wicklow Glendasan boulder alley boulder alley is a small alley made of 3 small crags directlt above the crag above moby brick on the north side of the vally . crater face is the slab with lots of little craters on the east side of the alley Calliam Johnson 24/07/08
hawk slab 4+ wicklow Glendasan hawk boulder slab on east face of hawk boulder Calliam Johnson 24/07/08
Cold Feet 5 Wicklow Glendasan Moby Brick The overhanging east face, straight forward but worrying - the landing is uneven - slap from the sidepulls to the big jug. Dave Flanagan 04/08/08
- 4+ Wicklow Glendasan Moby Brick North face, pull to the lip on the nice incut edges. Dave Flanagan 04/08/08
Mantel 5 Wicklow Glendasan Boulder Alley Just right of the mouth of the alley is a short wall with a slabby top, mantel this. Dave Flanagan 2006?
Stickmata 5+ Wicklow Mall Hill Heart Of Darkness H Of D is a nice rounded boulder in the forest above the track that bisects Mall Hill. The best way to find it to follow the forext road down the valley and a few meters past the small wooden hut hut up into the forest following the line of the firebreaks. Stickmata starts on the left and uses a few slopers to get the sidepull flake. The real price line is to the right. Dave Flanagan 20/09/08
Sketch 5+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Beside Lough Nahanagan Slap from the good sidepull on the overhanging face to the top. Peter McMahon 28/10/2008
killilagh sit start 5+ clare doolin fireworks boulder sit start under overhang/roof to the right of 'outsider' jamie mulhall 30/10/08
Far Out 6a clare doolin fireworks boulder start as for outsider then continue traverse low into killilagh sit start and finish up, pumpy !! ciaran mulhall 31/10/08
wedged 5+ clare doolin sector c the zoo sit start deep under small wedge shaped roof just to the right of the tooth problem, jam yourself like you are in a chimney, reach back for a finger lock and a crimp and follow the crack to the top Ciaran Mulhall 31/10/08
Off Width Her Head 4+ clare doolin sector c the zoo nice wide chimney just to the right of of 'on the edge' Ciaran Mulhall aug 2008
Permadry 7a? Wicklow Glendo scree Roof crack in a cave high in the scree, 100m straight up above superstars of the BMX.
Sit-Start on the big juggy crack, up to the sidepull and crack, finish on the top jug far left.
PROBABLY THE DRYEST PROBLEM IN GLENDO!!! Michael Duffy 27/11/08
The Nose 7b Louth White Bog The Nose The big pointy nose at the top of the scree.
Start under the roof. Using a crimp to the right, the sharp arête and a heal hook, slap up to the nose then rock over the lip of the roof. Descent to the right. Sit-Start project from deep back wall. Rarely in conditions Pierre Fuentes 07/06/2008
Media Tick 7a Louth White Bog Plate Boulder SS on the crimps in the groove with a heelhook on the left. Cross through to the crimps on the right, slap to the lip and rock over. Pierre Fuentes 19/07/2008
Blade Runner 6c Louth White Bog Pebble Sit-Start on the obvious jug. Go left onto the sharp crimps and left again to a hiden jug. Then reach the lip of the overhang to step out via the left arete or rockover onto the slab and top out. Pierre Fuentes 26/07/2008
Lesbian Treaty 7a+ Louth White bog Plate boulder Sit-Start on the obvious bottom step using an obvious flake far left. Slap up to the break, match and move onto the diagonal crack. Finish straight up using the sharp crimps to top out. Pierre Fuentes 18/10/2008
Starter Traverse 6a Louth White Bog Starter Arete Traverse the slopey lip from the bottom right to the top of the arete. Pierre Fuentes 26/07/2008
The Leak 5+ Louth White bog ship boulder Sit-start to the vertical crack with a high enough top out. Pierre Fuentes 26/07/2008
waterline 6a Louth White bog ship boulder sit-start as for the Leak but traverse the long horizontal break and finish round the corner to the extreme right.
Pierre Fuentes 26/07/2008
Dec's sit-start 6b Louth White bog Starter arete To the right of the Starter arete is smaller boulder with a couple of sit-start deadpoints: Dec’s sit start takes the round corner and Pierre’s sit-start the overhanging mini-arete.
Both 6b. Declan Tormey 07/06/2008
- 5+ Louth White Bog Starter Arete The small crimpy slabbish wall around the left of the arete eliminating the big jugs to the left and the arete. Pierre Fuentes 07/06/2008
Starter Arete 5 Louth White bog Starter Arete The obvious corner arete. It can be climbed from a sit start and has an eliminate on the right (basically eliminating the arete... 5+) Pierre Fuentes 07/06/2008
- 4 Wicklow Glendalough Track Boulder Just after the trees before you reach the tripod boulder a track winds its way up the hillside. Follow this until you reach a conspicuously large boulder with a slabby side facing the track. The problem goes straight up the slab, starting from a rounded sidepull, to a rail and the top. Terry O'Neill 26/11/08
- 3 Wicklow Glendalough Track Boulder Starts up the groove just left of the previous problem, using a sharp sidepull to reach the rail and finish straight up Terry O'Neill 26/11/08
Pinch Problem 6a+ Wicklow Glendalough Track Boulder On the left hand side of the boulder. Burly move up to a rounded pinch and muscle your way straight up over the nose using a big sidepull. Dermot Shiels 26/11/08
Jump start me 5+ Wicklow Glendalough - Downhill from the track boulder are 2 large boulders leaning against each other. On the uphill side is a hollow with an overhanging face. Start with a sharp left hand crimp, jump to a jug rail and finish straight up using a slopey crimp and some quartz holds. Paul Brennan 26/11/08
- 3 Wicklow Glendalough - On the downhill side of the larger of the two boulders. Start on the triangular sloping ledge and step delicately up onto the slab. Dermot Shiels 26/11/08
- 5 Wicklow Glendalough - On the downhill side of the smaller of the two boulders. Sit start at the lip of a small overhang and slap up for the good quartz holds. Terry O'Neill 26/11/08
Reardon's Roof 7a Dublin Bullock Harbour Below the Apartment Bloc Start on the left arete of the steep roof, climb to the lip proper and traverse right the full length of the boulder and around the corner to the obvious finish. Diarmuid Smyth 27/11/08
Behind the lines 6a Wicklow Glendasan Northside, cliff band Above the road on the northside of glendasan is a cliff band above the scree, on the left hand side is a very nice highball slab to the right of this is a very nice quartz overhanging face between the two is an overhanging wall. Climb this from a SS on the good incut, to the sloping shelf to a sloping topout. Excellent. Dave Flanagan 30/11/08
- 4 Wicklow Glendasan Northside, scree At the bottom edge of the scree is a boulder with vertical face, the left side of the boulder is quartz. Climb the front face using the small corner. Dave Flanagan 30/11/08
Square arete 4+ Wicklow Glendasan Northside, scree Further up the scree is a very obvious square cut arete, beside a hazel tree, climb it on the right hand side. Dave Flanagan 30/11/08
Conquistadors of the pointless 5+ Wicklow Glendasan Northside, roadside A few hundred meters down the road past St Kevins slab but on the other side of the road is a fairly obvious boulder. This problem goes up the down valley side from a SS. Mediocre at best. Dave Flanagan 29/11/08
Left to right traverse 4+ Wicklow Glendalough Chillax Clearing At the back right of the chillax clearing there is a big boulder with an obvious jug in the middle of its face.Start at the far left on a jug just over the lip and a high smear for the left foot. Make your way up the arete on improving crimps until you reach the apex (avoiding the jug in the middle of the face) and hand traverse the lip to the right arete - a high right foot around the arete for an easy mantle to finish. Phil Smith 30/11/2008
Right arete 4 Wicklow Glendalough Chillax Clearing At the back right of the chillax clearing, if you're facing the path, there is a big boulder with an obvious jug in the middle of its face. Sit start the right arete pulling up on two obvious flakes. Mantle over the top. Phil Smith 28/11/2008
Uberhang low start 6b+ Wicklow Glendalough Uberhang Croching start to the Uberhang. Start on quartz sidepull for the right hand and vague undercut/sidepull for the left, make two slaps, the first to a very slopy three finger edge and second to the letterbox jug and hold the swing. This has been done before as a dyno skipping the intermediate slopey edge. Dave Flanagan 04/12/08
- 5 Louth White Bog Plate Boulder Up in the V groove right of Lesbian Treaty Pierre Fuentes May 08
- 6b Louth White Bog the Pebble SS traverse on the lip above Blade Runner. Same finish. Pierre Fuentes July 08
- 6c Louth White Bog the Pebble Small overhang to the rear of the pebble.
Hard sit-start deadpoint from a poor break and rock over. Pierre Fuentes July 08
Crimp start me 6a Wicklow Glendalough Below miner's track On the right side of the valley just past the edge of the forest, about 100m from the track are two boulders leaning against each other. On the uphill side is a hollow with an overhanging face. Start left hand crimp on tiny crimp, right on incut crimp and cropss through to the juggy rail and finish straight on the quartz holds. Photo http://www.theshortspan.com/photo/jumpToIt.jpg Dave Flanagan 03/12/08
the Egg 7b Clare Doolin Base Camp Sit-start egg problem, just left of "Hider".
Pierre Fuentes 26/12/08
The French Connection 7b Clare Cul de Claire - Very long loop traverse linking the lip of the roof from "Cold Turkey" to the underside mantlepiece and back to the start. 40 moves (Traverse grade). Pierre Fuentes 26/12/08
Flute Boy 5 Wicklow Glendalough Hidden Groove The project called "Balance". Pull onto good left side pull and right crimp, high left foot. Span to sloper on lip with right hand. match lip and top out. Harder than other problems on face... and better - really nice move! Belgian Sean 24/12/08
Hugh 7b Wicklow Glendalough Holiday Boulders New area extensivly cleaned and blitzed New Years Eve above the zig-zags just 10 minutes walk past the Fin. 9 new problems plus 1 or 2 projects remaining, including awesome groove. Topo and pics to follow. This problem takes the perfect steep face on the riverside of the boulders. Low start in roof on opposing sidepulls, left foor on small edge, right toe-hook around block. Dave Ayton 31/12/08
In the Moon 6a! Wicklow Glendalough Holiday Boulders The striking steep arete and seam to the left of the main block. step up on sidepulls until the seam can be reached with left hand. A right heelhook helps reach high on arete with right hand before a committing reach to the sloping top can be made. Have Fun! Dave Ayton 3
Leftism 7c Wicklow Glendalough Big Jane The full line of Rhythm and Stealth. It’s a really really good link up (16 moves) with a tricky section at the bottom into the airy and fluffable top section above. Start sitting in the cave with your bum on the little bloc at the obvious big layaway. Pull on and trend leftwards and up the arete to finish. 3 stars, lovely moves and pumpy. Michael Duffy 28/12/08
lower turnpike arete 6c+ Kerry Gap of Dunloe TurnPike Rocks The problem begins at the very bottom of the roadside arete, being the boulder on the left as you look down the valley towards Killarney.
Start on a side pull, slap to the sloper and continue on crimps until the tricky dyno to the monster bucket on top.
Mats and spotters required. - -
Smash 'n Grab 6a+ Wicklow Glenmacnass - Past the carpark above Glenmac waterfall, across the river is a single large boulder. Climbs the left arete, starting on its right hand side. Possibly 6b? John Howard 07/03/09
Funzies 5c Clare Doolin Fireworks Boulder Obvious slab problem starting about a meter left of outsider. Come up under lip, then move left to gain better holds and step up over the lip. Colm Shannon July 2008
p.b.r. streetgang ? sligo lough easky the one nearest the lough three stars...climb the west face scoop to the rib exit right into the bowl...is that enough?? it seemed obvious to me at the time... dark angel feb 04
natasha 21 ? sligo lough easky the one nearest the lough to the right of 'p.b.r. streetgang' traverse the obvious flake line to dyno and mantleshelf finnish dark angel 04
bog suede shoes ? sligo lough easky the one nearest the lough the slab to the left of 'p.b.r. streetgang' dark angel 04
storming the deathstar ? sligo lough easky - directly above the road-side boulder way up on the hill-side is a beautiful big block...the problem is on the north facing side and involves a leap of faith to an obvious jug then a smear and a slap to finnish dark angel 04
shame ? sligo lough easky - the first good looking boulder,on your left driving towards the lough, is the mitre...the right arete, layway to an obvious quartz crystel for the left hand is'shame' dark angel 04
guilt ? sligo lough easky - the left side of the mitre boulder is a rippled wall...start as far to the right as possible and climb up and left...exiting in the middle of the wall...'guilt' dark angel 04
ren ? sligo lough easky - above and to the left of the road-side boulder is a tomb-stone shaped boulder,the right arete,starting in the middle and finishing up and right is 'ren' dark angel 04
stimpy ? sligo lough easky - same boulder as 'ren', same start to,just go sraight up...much harder and quite dangerous on your own without a mat...a big reach helps dark angel 04
gravitys rainbow e5 sligo roosky - james knows exactly where it is..not the road-side flake but the small crag above a couple of decent boulders...the line is obvious to anyone with eyes... dark angel 05
the death of mr. spock ? sligo roosky - below the small crag...the first good boulder you come to has an obvious arete on the right dark angel 04
keepin' it foolish ? sligo roosky - round to the left of '...mr spock' is a small cave which if you sit down and climb up is kinda' 'keepin' it foolish' dark angel 04
suck on this ? sligo roosky - if you start 'keepin' it foolish' and traverse left,swing round the corner and fight to the top that's 'suck on this'... dark angel 04
speed camera location ? sligo aughris head - the obvious warm-up line of jugs leading out of the cave up and to the left...stones and the sea can be a problem... and hide,or reveal, a good couple of extra moves...bit of a shame really...starts of hard and gets easier dark angel 04
overcoming aughris ? sligo aughris head - again it depends on the stones but basically it up to the fossilised letterbox hold and then layaway and crimp up and left.. dark angel 04
pump pig strenuos knackerd arms of death ? sligo aughris head - up to the fossilised hold and then right...end of... dark angel 04
against the day ? sligo aughris head - the obvious sea-facing groove to the left of'pump pig...', finishes up to the left...some loose holds...or at least there were... dark angel 04
Beef to the heel 6a+ Wicklow Lough Dan Righthandside Traverse the waist high roof from left to right, finish using the sidepull flake. Will be in updated guide. Diarmuid Smyth 04/04/09
Wet Eireann 4+ Wicklow Lough Dan Righthandside The square block about 20m Karma. Nice line up the corner on the left of the front face. Will be in next version of the guide. Dave Flanagan 04/04/09
TBD 6a+ Wicklow Lough Dan Righthandside On the up valley face of boulder number 9 (from guide 4.0). Start on the overhanging face slap to the slopey lip and move left to a tricky topout. PeterTom McMahon 04/04/09
Magic Eye 6a+ Wicklow Lough Dan Lefthandside The block downvalley of Shadow (number 9 in guide 4.0) has a nice very shallow groove beside the right arete. This may have been done before. Diarmuid Smyth 04/04/09
Glass Jaw 5+ Wicklow Glenmalure - Nice pure dyno from the break to the lip. Diarmuid Smyth 30/03/09
Angle Grinder 5+ Wicklow Glenmalure - Sitstart the lip and thug your way rightwards into the top out corner. Diarmuid Smyth 30/03/09
we agnostics ? sligo lough easky - i remembered a few more problems and in the interests of full disclosure i thought you should know... up and to the left (as seen from the road) of ren and stimpey is an obvious group of biggish boulders...the first good looking boulder on the left has a steep nw face and an obvious short corner in the sw face...the nw side is a boggy start on good edges leading to a couple of thin breaks...called 'i'm not going,i'm not going!!!'...i don't know how hard it is? dark angel 04
we agnostics ? sligo lough easky - just behind 'i'm not going..' is another boulder...the left arete up and right is the problem... dark angel 04
there is a solution ? sligo lough easky - the arete of 'we agnostics' but step left and traverse the boulder almost to the end...finish up dark angel 04
elmos friend ? sligo lough easky - across and left from 'i'm not going..' is a single biggish boulder...it has a rounded front side and a wee cave at the back... the obvious arete is the problem...fun dark angel 04
julia ? sligo lough easky - to the right of 'elmo's friend' is elmo's friend 'julia'...a bit of a hop to start then ear shaped jugs that you lay-away off to finish...nice dark angel 04
slave to the traffic lights ? sligo aughris head - the second problem on your sites video clip of aughris is 'slave...' dark angel 04
we don't stop for no red lights tonight ? sligo aughris head - the rising traverse R-L to the right of 'slave...'...same finish almost dark angel 04
- - - - - i hope this is helpful dave...sorry i can't grade them... i havn't a clue about grades or the exact dates, though i'm sure about the year...has anyone bouldered on the rocks near the school house about 2miles south of lough easky?...they always looked good...i'm not doing this for medals(buffy)...i'm doing it 'cause i spent a lot of time, and put a lot of effort and love into climbing these problems...not for me, for everyone...slan x dark angel 04
Entertainment for the Short 2.0 5+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Electric Mountain On the face below problem 5.

Start on a slopey crimp above the sharp pinch on the left (two mats might be required :P) and an undercut in the face-splitting crack. Again, a hard move to stand up on the right foot in the crack then balance and reach delicately for the lip. Phil Smith 12/4/2009
Entertainment for the Short version 1 6a Wicklow Wicklow Gap Electric Mountain On the face to the left of problem 5. Sharply pinch the flake with the left and pull hard on the chicken head like sidepull with the right (this is nearly a full arm span away) to get established with your right foot in the crack. Gain your balance and snatch for the lip. Phil Smith 12/4/2009
Warm yer fingers 4+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Electric Mountain In the crack below problem 5, start low on good crimps and smear your way up to just below the lip. A high left foot gives a rockover to the top with the left hand. Phil Smith 12/4/2009
Dark Angle 6a Dublin The Scalp Roadside block On the opposite side of the road to the parking spot a few meters towards Enniskerry is a pointed boulder, this problem takes the slopey bulge beside the corner starting from the sidepull. Dave Flanagan 25/04/09
I Calcium as I Caesium 7b Wicklow Glenmacnass Solidarity block The quartz seam on the Solidarity block at Glenmacnass. Mentioned as a project in the guide. Andy Barker April 2008
Watch Fatty Break This Hold 6c Wicklow Cloghogue Pierre'sTwins block A problem round to the right of Pierre's Twins at Cloghogue (opposite side of the block) - not marked as a project in the guide. Standing start on two sidepull crimp undercuts - climb straight up the wall, passing an obvious sharp crystal. Andy Barker April 2008
The Plum sit start 7a Wicklow Glendalough The Ruins As the name suggests. Sitting start beginning directly under the hold on the standing start. Ben Thompson April 2008
Yo Mamas A Pajama 6c+ Wicklow Glenmacnass Sector 1 Project # 9 in the guide. Standing start. Climb the arete on the right for a couple of moves before rocking onto the slabby left-hand side. On the first ascent I traversed left at this point to gain the easier topout on the left as I didn't fancy grappling with the heather cornice! Andy Barker Aug 2007
Faith in Lichen 6c Wicklow Glendasan The Tank Project #1 on the Tank boulder. Standing start with hands on the lip - a hard lunge followed by a tricky heel hook move to get onto the slab. Finish up the highball slab. Felt more like E3 even with a couple of pads. Andy Barker April 2008
Johnny dawes 6b donegal rubinoid point Atlantic Wall Start on the farthest left side of the crimpy break, left of the usual start to john doe. Dyno up and right for the sloping break and finish as for john doe. Variation of john doe starting further left. Rodney Moore 24\06\09
John Dunne 6a donegal rubinoid point atlantic wall Start on the juggy holds, right of john doe. Dyno up and left for the sloping break and finish as for john doe. Variation of john doe starting further right. rodney moore 24\06\09
Cream Eggs 6a Dublin The Scalp Dublin End Same start holds as Chris’ Arete(prob4 in guide4). Eliminate the arete from now. Move up into the letterbox crack. Using the good sidepull just above, go for the top!! Static is very good or just pop. Not sure about grade because so reachy. Jack Doyle 25/06/09
Orion 7 Wicklow Glenmacnass Dice Slopey arete left of Monkey Burger on the Dice boulders. Harry Fogg July 2009
Crowd Control 6a+ Wicklow Glenmalure Fraughan Rock Glen The aesthetic sloping rib on the Fraughan Rock boulder, pic of Dave on it here- photo ,delicate moves lead to a slap for a sloping scoop and awkward top out above. John Howard August '09
Not quite mint 5 Wicklow Glendalough Path Above the Squamish block is a pear shaped boulder spilt by a cresent crack, thsi problem goes up the leftside of thes lopey arete on the LHS of the boulder. David Flanagan Oct '09
Last of the summer whine 6a Wicklow Glendalough Path Above the previous problem is a narrow corridor this problem is on the overhanging face on the right, starting at the bottom left and following the sloper up and right to a juggy finish over a dodge landing. David Flanagan Oct '09
Smelly Feey 6a Clare Doolin Basecamp Line just left of doolin crack. Gaston off a good 2 finger crimp for the left to reach an awkward crimp on the lip Colm Shannon 2009
Contact 8a+ Wicklow Carrigshouk - The imposing arête of Carrigshouk is one of the finest and most striking lines in Co. Wicklow and has been a long standing project for years.
Climbing the rhs of the bulging arête, a dynamic dead point to a slopey edge leads to delicate climbing above with a tricky move to gain the top.
Michael Duffy Dec 2009
Air Canada 6c Wicklow Glendalough Egg boulder/Path The slopey lip of the side of the boulder facing the lake. Sit start on good holds on the left. Make a powerful move up and right to some very nice slopers then mantle out at the apex. Photo: photo Jerome Legare 01/08/2009
Delusions of Grandeur 6b Wicklow Lough Bray Grand Hotel Might have gone before. The right arete on the boulder, ss right hand fingers in the crack and left hand on the arete, up to the apex and over. Short but worthwhile.
http://imgur.com/haDyU.jpg Diarmuid Smyth Feb 2010
Proj 5c Donegal Malin Beg Main Bouldering Area Line 4, "The impressive arete on it's left side", as in guide5.pdf Stephen Hardiman 04/04/2010
Ahab 6b Wicklow Glendasan Whale Start on the obvious flake. Snatch for good left sloper and crank through to your choice of vague shitty slopers then mantle ugly. no 3 in the guide. Diarmuid Smyth 05/04/2010
Fancypants 5+ Donegal Malin Beg The black slab Straight up the slab, slightly right of centre. Small crimps and smears and a big reach to top. Avoid the good holds on right near the arete. Garrett Greene 04/04/10
Clio Intacto 6b Wicklow Lough Bray - On a small block hidden in heather right of the path before you reach the Lakeside boulder. Sitstart the short arete using sidepulls in the thin crack for the left hand and a rounded edge for the right hand.
http://imgur.com/k46r8.jpg Paul Brennan 7/4/10
Scrittles 5+ Wicklow Glendalough The Ruins Step up on low crystal and mantle out the uniformly slopey top out, hernia inducing brilliance. On line between decs pyramid and big jim. Diarmuid Smyth 08/04/2010
Slabby 3 Galway Leic an Níocháin,Inis Mór Lego Brick Lego Brick is a detached square cut block that has broken off along a white quartz like seam. This block is one of the first bigish ones, you will see the line it broke of clearly behind it. The small slabby side is a good break from vertical crimps. Jack Doyle 3/04/10
Loose 4 Galway Leic an Níocháin,Inis Mór Lego Brick Just left of the arete the rock is slightly overhanging. Starting low down(hmm, was it ss??). Strongish moves bring you to the small ledge with a microwave size block on it. Feels loose when you stand on it.... Jack Doyle 3/04/10
Eventually 5+ Galway Leic an Níocháin,Inis Mór Lego Brick On the quartz side of the boulder there is a nice short broken arete. Work up the left hand arete until you reach the off vertical top and mantle. (May be possible to continue up along and mantle at a higher point??). Jack Doyle 3/04/10
Right Hand Rule 5+? Wicklow Lough Nahanagan Electric Mountain Boulder Just left of problem 4 in the guide on a seperate boulder. SS on good holds, up to a crimp rail and then the top. Top out with help from the block on top of the boulder. Very independent line, surprised it hasn't been done before... Leo Mckeever 19-05-10
Delirium 7B Dublin Howth Ayton's Cave Sit start at the obvious chalked right hand sidepull at the back of the cave, squeeze and heelhook your way along the hanging tufa to reach the start of loco (-destroyer extension ~6c/7a), and finish as for loco total John Howard June 2010
Solstice 7B Dublin Howth Ayton's Cave Climb loco total to the obvious halfway jug before heading directly through the blank looking roof to the crack, finishing at the lip. A beautiful series of moves involving an undercling, incut crimps and intricate footwork John Howard June 2010
Eon 7B+ Dublin Howth Ayton's Cave The link-up of the destroyer extension into solstice, amazing, get on it! John Howard July 2010
Eclipse 7A+ Dublin Howth Ayton's Cave A variant to solstice moving left from the jug to a right-hand sidepull/pinch before making a long move to a deep juggy slot(often wet), the roof crack can be gained from this, finish at the lip John Howard July 2010
Poise 6C+ Antrim Fair Head Murlough Just past the boombastik block, directly uphill is a short arete, start using a left hand sidepull and right hand pinching the arete at shoulder height, a right hand bump and left hand slap lead to the top John Howard June 2010
Deepthroat 6B+ Dublin Howth Ayton's Cave SS from an undercling at the groove/arete towards the end of carolines, climb the arete to a sidepull slot and sloper above, a deep cross-through to the deep jug slot and long reach lead to the crack, finish at the lip. John Howard July 2010
Blue Tongue 6c Wicklow Fraughan Glen Fraughan Rock On the Northwest side of the boulder from a sit start using an undercut to a good jug, swing left to a sidepull, then up the slab using via a crimp and a sidepull. Lee Robinson July 2010
Art Attack 7a Wicklow Arts Lough Ciaran's Boulder On the steep side of the Boulder facing the lough, start from sit on a good rail, then traverse left via a sloping crimp and a gaston to a sloping spike, a big reach left to a jug leads to some nice technical moves to gain the left arête to top out. Standing start from the jug is also very good Lee Robinson July 2010
Musophobia 6b Wicklow Foxburrow boulders White Elephant boulder The sloping South Eastern arête from sit, on one impressive pure White clean cut granite giant!
A must see if in the area. Lee Robinson July 2010
Elephants can't Tip Toe 6a Wicklow Foxburrow Boulders White Elephant boulder Tip Toe up the centre of the immaculate slab direct to a side pull then top out. Lee Robinson July 2010
The Funk 7B Dublin Howth Ayton's Cave Sit start as for afterthought on the rhs of the cave entrance, trend up and rightwards out past the lip of the cave to finish matched on the obvious flattie, dynamic but subtle, brilliant moves, real team siege effort, psyched! John Howard Sept 2010
Racing The Sun 6b+ Wicklow Arts Lough - Distinctive clean crescent shaped face between Ciaran's boulder and the lake. Low start on the obvious flat hold on the arete. Slap back to a jug and a sloping shelf. Then move leftwards up the arete on slopers. Lovely. Might scrape in at 6c? Paul Brennan 20/10/2010
Witness The Shitness 4 Cork Barley Cove Roof section On the smaller cove of Barley Cove beach in West Cork there is a small roof with a spacious ledge on top. This is on the right hand side of the cove as you look at the sea. Problems are on low quality rock and mostly easy, but worth a pair bringing a pair of shoes for on a sunny day.

Witness the Shitness takes the most obvious line of undercuts a few metres to the right of the high tide line on the beach. Using these, pull through the small roof and mantel onto the ledge. Height depends on the state of the sand. Richard Duggan Feb. 2010
Super Bock 7c Wicklow Glendo Hidden Groove Step into the grrove. From the small crimp and sidepull in the horizontal seam on the left make a big move up and left to the smiley rail. Michael Duffy 17/12/2010
Wonderland 8b Wicklow Glendo Hidden Groove Starting on the boss on the back block compress your way through the roof. A modern classic. Project No.1 on the Hidden Groove boulder. Michael Duffy 17/12/2010
Electroshock 7b+ Wicklow Electric Mountain Forest High up in the forest is a slightly overhanging smooth wall with a pebble at knee height. Right foot on, assume superman pose, launch, classic. Michael Duffy 19/12/2010
Kinky Reggae 7a+ Wicklow Glenmalure Ballinafunshogue Boulder Sit start the arete on the two flatties in the groove. Classic. The stand is one of the best 6c's in Wicklow. Michael Duffy 17/09/2010
Maneater 7b Dublin Howth Aytons Cave The central hanging fin/crack from the start of Loco Total to the glory jug Michael Duffy June 2010
The Spunk 7b+ Dublin Howth Aytons Cave From the glory jug climb diagonally right through the roof to finish on the obvious flatty. Michael Duffy June 2010
Dubstep 6b North Fermanagh Brimstone West From the curving crack in the middle of the wall step right to the faint rib. Classic Michael Duffy Sept 2010
The Milkshake 5+ Clare Doolin Fireworks Boulder Climb the grove on the north end of the boulder to the crux top out. Colm Shannon 2010
The Quiet Place 6a Clare Doolin Fireworks Boulder Just right of 'The Milkshake'. Start with a high right root, left on an under cut and right hand on a good high sloper. Pull on and throw for a good left hold and continue stright up. This could be 'Aret' but looking at the guide I think that's further right. Vid of it here: photo Colm Shannon 2010
Deadend 6b Wicklow Glenmacnass Waterfall Across road from the waterfall. Starting on the nice jug on the left end, work your way upslope, moving rightwards up the arete to top out at the highest point. Diarmuid Smyth 19/01/11
Inertia 6b Wicklow Hollywood - Start on left end of lip, campus to start then work way rightwards. Rock over into the groove to finish. Diarmuid Smyth 21/01/11
Half Life 6c Wicklow Mall Hill Upper Hill On the slab between 10 & 11. Start on left arete and work rightwards on credit cards to the one good handhold and go for top. Diarmuid Smyth 28/02/2011
Filth Wizard 5 Wicklow Camaderry Filth Boulder Straight up the hill and slightly to the left of the Glendasan car park is a distinctive square cut, suspended, overhanging fin. Climb the overhanging left arete from a sit start. Can be done more directly as a sit start dyno up the overhanging face at about 5+ Luke Stratford 17/3/2011
Crack of Filth 6a Wicklow Camaderry Filth Boulder The charming roof crack in the low cave at the back of the boulder. Start on the jug hidden at the back of the crack and squirm your way to victory. Lovely Paul Brennan 17/3/2011
John 3 16 8A Louth Cooley mountains The Reckoner sector The steep roof just right of the reckoner problem. Start left hand on the large sidepull and right hand under the roof. Pull on and traverse along the lip with a hard throw out to the arete. Then make your way across the slopers via some tricky footwork and a shed load of body tension. Hard top out to finish. Awesome problem which climbs very well. Jonny Argue 25/3/2011
Another Duffy Problem......... 6c? Wicklow Glendalough The Ruins Not a new Problem, done years ago by Masters Duffy, but never recorded and it's a beauty. Location: In a small pit About 4/5 meters behind Problem 14, it faces towards the ruins. Sitstart on the crimp, with both hands!, on the left side. Then, follow the arete rightards, through the perfect holds to the top. Michael Duffy Years Ago.
Beta burgler 7a? Wicklow Glendalough Beyond Afro Left Roof half way between Black Art and Afro Left. Bad landing but loads of mats sorts it. Standing start on a small undercut for left hand on underside of boulder and crimp on face/sde of roof. Goes from right to left, topping out just left of nose. Jonathan Redmond March 2011
Blubber 6a Dublin Scalp Beside Ahab's Hump your way up the leaning fin just right of Ahab's, starting from the triangular sloper. Top out without using the right wall. Paul Brennan 06/04/2011
Hazelnut 6b Dublin Portrane The arch Start as the ear head left around the face and continue to the to the large holds and finish up the break to the ramp Richard Sandes 12/4/2011
Foxy 5+ Wicklow Glendalough Behind the Rails a few meters behind the rails, to the right of problem 30. A low ball sit start face climb that faces away from the path and towards the cliffs. start from the obvious ramp with sketchy feet - reach to a small hold out right, right foot out to small foot holds up high and turn the left hand to a mantle on the opening ramp to reach the top.

Short but sweet warm up.

Seems like it would have been done before - but it's not in the guide I don't think? Trish Fox 10/04/2011
Bring out the swans 7b+ Ireland Dublin Ayton's Cave The Albatross Project Jonny Argue 16/04/11
fatback 6a+ Dublin The Scalp Beside Ahab Just to the right of Blubber is a wide crack, layback up it and use a heel hook on the triangular sloper to lurch for the top. David Flanagan 20/04/11
Manhole 6b+ Dublin Scalp Westside Sit-start as for LDF. Move to hold on left arete and to the lip on the other side of the chockstone. Top out through the gap without dabbing, good luck to the fattys. Diarmuid Smyth 23/04/2011
Danky Dank 7c+ Dublin Howth Ayton's Cave The Opposition project. very powerfull and sustained climbing with 20 moves. Jonny Argue 22/4/11
Sweet Pea 6b Donegal Polldoo Glen Split Pea Rock Project 9 in the guide. Nice moves on perfect rock. Fun.

SS with sharp arete for left hand and slopey crimp for right. Slap up for the flake and layback up this, topping out carefully using the arete. Paul Brennan 23/4/2011
Captain Nemo 4 Dublin Portrane Pirate Cove Might have done before. Wall between 5 and 6 from a guide to bouldering Damian Kawiorski 13/03/2011
The Flying Dutchman 5 Dublin Portrane Pirate Cove Outside a cave, can be 5 or 5+ I am not sure photo Damian Kawiorski 25/04/2011
Double Tap 5 Wicklow Upper Glanekeera Valley Just west of Lough Firrib Follow the stream downhill from Lough Firrib, turn left once you hit the rock and there is a steep cliff band, this problem goes up the fin on the left. 5 stars. David Flanagan 28/04/11
The Pentient Man Shall Pass SS 8a Antrim Fairhead Murlough Sitstart of The Pentient Man Shall Pass. David Mason May '11
The Homme Jomme 7c Antrim Fairhead Ballycastle end photo This is the project around the back of The Whale marked as problem 12 on the topo. In the text the descriptions of 11 and 12 are mixed up. David Mason May '11
Grumpus 6a+ Wicklow Glendalough Near Jiggery Pokery Think this is new - facing Jiggery Pokery, follow the path straight and slightly right for about 10 metres. Overhanging triangular face, ss on left, one han on arete and one hand on (painful) crimp on face (gradually getting bigger). go up using good holds. Starting move is the hardest Dec Tormey May 2011
Orange Crush 6B Donegal Dunaff Bay Wide Zawn Between problems 7 and 8 in the guidebook is a small, rounded bulging wall. Start on undercuts, up to small edges then slap up and right to good holds. Done before? Chris Rooney 03/06/2011
Scoop 5+ Donegal Polldoo Slab Boulder The scoop to the right of Bullroarer. Bridge delicately and use small crimp up on the right and finish slightly left. Hugh Boyle 10/07/11
Louisa's Traverse 3+ Donegal Doagh Strand Petrified Wall area On the block opposite Petrified Wall. Right to left traverse of the face, starting on the awkward, wrong-facing side-pulls and finishing high. Caro Vandenplas 03/07/2011
Felsic Fantasy 6b? down slieve binnian wee things boulder Start right arete of problem 9 in guide. Obvious crimp for left hand,right hand pinching arete. Heel by your hand and rock until you can rock no more! R Hunter 12/07/11
Beluga humpin 6a down Slieve Binnian Mr potato head boulder Back of the boulder to the left of "The squeeze that croc lanked"Guide P224 problem 13. Stand at jug and mantle.Then mantle wrestle again. No crack on the left. - -
Mothwalk 7a+ Dublin Sutton Aytons cave Sit start squeezing a deep right hand jug and sloping left hand edge, climb leftwards past the slanting shelf and steep pinches into the start of carolines and finish up this John Howard June 2011
Red Flag 6c Wicklow North Prison The Warden Boulder A sloping diagonal crack from sit on the right-hand end of the blocks large face, Heather top out! Brilliant balancy moves, from a trick start. Lee Robinson 24/07/11
Undertow 7c Dublin Sutton Aytons cave SS at incut rh undercling and low lh edge beyond danky dank, power out rightwards through a line of undercuts and sidepulls finishing as for maneater John Howard 24/07/11
Huckleberry huggin 7a? Down Binnian gamma tor To the left of weed killer. Bear hug the arete to top. Sitter also possible but doesn't really add anything to the problem. Project problem number 9 in guide R Hunter 24/07/11
Outspan 6b Wicklow Glenmalure Terrace The Sheep Shelter The right-hand side on good holds, reach to a tricky sloping topout, possible sit start L Robinson 26/07/11
Underglass 6c Wicklow Glenmalure Terrace The Sheep Shelter Jump start to the lip of the roof, lay-back and press over the lip, doing this problem from sit will be a*** classic as it tackle the steep roof on crimps L Robinson 26/07/11
Sideways Down 6b+ Wicklow Glendasan Starting Block Sit start with both hands on the left corner, of the steep lip with the fallen block landing, work you way rightwards across the lip and work your hands around the arête, then top out, some good heel action needed, spicy top-out. L Robinson 28/07/11
Perfect Opening Line 6c Wicklow Glendasan South Up the hill about 100 metres, above the Tank Boulder, is a quite obvious left to right rising low traverse rail from sit, at an angle of about 10 degrees, 5 metres of of blissful climbing, rocking out left to finish L Robinson 27/06/11
Lamprey 7a+ Dublin Portrane The arch A tight line starting as for Leviathan and trending leftwards out on the steep, pocketed wall before following a faint crack back right to the brown jug (likely to have been done before but thought I'd throw it up to get people on it as it climbs better than it looks) John Howard 28/07/11
Cygnet 7a+ Dublin Sutton the cave link-up; start as for Bring out the swans and finish as for Loco total John Howard 07/08/11
Danky-loco 7B+ Dublin Howth the cave link-up; start as for danky dank and finish as for loco total...line 101 on the new topo ;) John Howard 09/08/11
Brokeback 6b Wicklow Black Castle Biker Cove Problem 4 in topo. Start from slopey shelf and use positive crimps to gain the highest pocket. Not topped out as the rock quality deteriorates rapidly.

Name refers to what would happen if you fluffed the top. Jonathon Redmond 14/08/2011
What are yiz doin'? 4 Wicklow Black Castle Biker Cove Start ar far into the rubbish filled chimney as you deem sensible, then go up. Great fun. Jonathon Redmond 14/08/2011
127 Minutes 5 Wicklow Black Castle Biker Cove Start as for What are yiz doin', get jammed in, then squirm out horizontally to get stood up on the shelf on the right. Suprisingly technical. Jonathon Redmond 14/08/2011
Slot Machine 6c Wicklow Black Castle The Room Start in the perfect slopey slot, then slap up to the slopey shelf then traverse right along the shelf and under the nose to finish standing on the slab. Cool moves on nice rock. Paul Brennan 14/08/2011
torpedo feet 6c+ Wicklow black castle The room blank face outside the cave, start on two small crimps, pull up and trow your left foot out on to the left arete, and finish up the arete. Fun problem if you like crimps and a flying kick move. Jonathan Redmond 14/8/11
Basilisk 7C+ Dublin Howth the cave link-up; Destroyer-Maneater-Spunk John Howard 17/8/11
The black stuff 7a+ Galway Jim's Nook/Lettergesh Jim's Nook area Long/pumpy R to L trav. of ivy-topped overhanging wall on ridge N of river mentioned in Jim's Nook section of guide (p173). Wade the river and follow the N shore/ridge inland for few hundred metres to find obvious ivy-topped wall. SS at vertical crack near R side of wall (just R of point where ivy level drops down to head height - could start a bit further R at harder grade). Pull on and head L thru technical/powerful sequence to ok shakeout in small corner feature. Continue L through 2nd hard section to gain much easier but still good/pumpy ground to obvious finish point at incut jugs on top of small rounded arete at L end of crag. Rock a bit snappy but landing good and line described clean. Stay low to avoid looser rock higher up. Owen Hayward 9/8/11
The German Bonus 6b Kerry Gap of Dunloe Hex SS as for problem 1 on the Hex, reach to the lip and follow it left to finish. See video photo Ralf Gentsch August '11
Vision of Sharks 5 Kerry Black Valley - Lough Reag Submarine The Submarine is a large huge boulder halfway between The Wave and Rock´n Lock. Traverse the upper edge from right to the left on its upper edge. Finish when you can step on the next boulder around the edge. The arete at the southwestern edge has a nice SS, 5.
Ralf Gentsch August '11
Moth-eaten 7B+ Dublin Howth The cave link-up; start as for mothwalk but trend back through the rough green tufa fin to the start of maneater and finish up this John Howard 24/08/11
Stool pigeon 7A+ Dublin Howth The cave A couple of minutes walk from the cave (towards the baily lighthouse)is a small bay with a prominent block in the middle- photo in the coastline past this is an overhung prow in a narrow zawn, SS at undercut pocket, finishing at the jug above the overlap on the lhs of prow John Howard 24/08/11
Chris Drew Blood 7a? Wicklow Black Castle 3rd Cove, problem 6 Start on blobs and straight up. Barry 27/08/11
Feral 6C+ Dublin Howth The cave Further on from Stool pigeon is a steep arete, SS at low positive rh pinch and lh sidepull and finish at the juggy ledge John Howard 26/08/11
Wet Dragon Poo 4 Clare Doolin left of Reardon Mem. Wall located left next to BMX on the main wall behind "Hider" on the mantle. place a mat and start sitting. go straight up following the pretty good holds upwards till the top. bouldered in August 2011 while the wall was very slippery and wet (drenched in salt water). felt like a 5b ... if dry it's for sure not more then a 4 / 4+. but was fun and a great experience bouldering in Ireland as a bavarian rock climber ;-) Martin Hawle Aug 2011
Blue Robot 5 Wicklow Glenmalure The Diving Board The right arete of The Diving Board boulder. Start is crux. Dave Flanagan 04/03/2012
- 5+ Wicklow Greystones The Cove sit start using arete and holds on left, make your way to the lip, top-out left or right side. - june 2009
People of the Sun 8a+ Wicklow Glendalough Crackland Small underground room up and right behind Black Art.
SS the concave splitter crack at the jug and finish right
Michael Duffy 18/03/11
The Hills have Eyes 8a Wicklow Glendasan The Tank The true line of the block. Start bottom left where the y crack diverges and finish up the arête. Michael Duffy 11/04/11
3. Cold Feet ss 6b+ Wicklow Glendasan Northside SS at the ledge, move left and up Michael Duffy May '11
8. 5+ Wicklow Glendasan Northside SS Arête, crack for right, finish right Michael Duffy May '11
10. The Arête 7a Wicklow Glendasan Northside Lhs of arête (6+ with cheat stone) Michael Duffy May '11
10a. The Wall 7a Wicklow Glendasan Northside The left hand side of the crimpy wall finishing up the niche Michael Duffy May '11
16. So It Goes - right 6c+ Wicklow Glendasan Northside Stand on and move out right Michael Duffy May '11
.14 6c+ Wicklow Glenmacnass The Rasher SS the flatty to lip and finish straight over Michael Duffy Mar '10
25. The Casbah 6+ Dublin The Scalp West Side Twin arêtes Michael Duffy Sept '10
26. Alison Curtis 7a Dublin The Scalp West Side SS to finish up rib (stand on 6+) Michael Duffy Sept '10
Halcyon 7c Wicklow Glanekeera The Halycon Block Start low right on the slab, up rail to sloper and finish straight up Michael Duffy 10/12/11
Soul Revolution 7c+ Wicklow Glenmalure Ballinafunshogue From the carpark at Kinky Reggae, follow the land slide gully up hill to the highest tree at the top. Stand start: Right hand undercut, left hand vert seam, up to pinch with left and finish right up the barrel Michael Duffy 01/03/12
Computer World - left 7a+ Wicklow Cloghoge - Start as Computer World finishing left Michael Duffy Feb '12
Computer World - right 7b Wicklow Cloghoge - Through the overlaps to finish up and left Michael Duffy Feb '12
Man Machine 8b Wicklow Cloghoge - Right hand jug, left hand low crozzle, finish right Michael Duffy 19/02/12
The Robots 7b Wicklow Cloghoge - The slab with dish for right finishing left Michael Duffy 19/02/12
The Model 8a+ Wicklow Cloghoge - The rhs of the arête. SS at the ledge and finish up the slab Michael Duffy 08/03/12
Computer World 7c Wicklow Cloghoge - Start left hand under the roof, move left then straight up the face Michael Duffy Feb '12
Puddle Arete 5 Mayo Achill Lonely Boulder SS on the right arete with a small knobbly hold for L hand. Up to slopey ledge, then a long move to a side-pull thingy. Up and left to top out. Richard Creagh 22/03/2012
Due Date 4+ Wicklow Lough Dan Wave Up and behind the Wave Boulder there is an overhanging blunt nose. The right hand side stand start starts on the crimps just over the over hang and goes up the arete. Pictures here photo Declan Tormey Mar 2012
Baby Boom 6a+ Wicklow Lough Dan Wave Just up and behind the Wave boulder there is an overhanging blunt arete. The left hand side sit start starts on the block underneath the overhang, with left hand on the big undercut. Go fairly straight up / a small bit right. You can also traverse right into Due Date for an easier finish. If the starting block was moved then it would be a harder problem. See photo for photo Declan Tormey Mar 2012
Booster Seat 6a+ Wicklow Lough Dan Driving Seat It's on the boulder above the Driving Seat top out. SS to the right of the big crack on the crimpy overhanging wall (stretchy start). Photo here photo Declan Tormey Mar 2012
Pallets by Candle Light 6B Wicklow Raven's Glen Source Start low on sidepull, climb to lip of overhang and up to a good jug for top out. photo Dave Ayton 24/03/2012
Wicklow Tea 6a Wicklow Raven's Glen Source Start low on Arete with RH on beefy sloper. Scratch feet and slap upwards. Dave Ayton 24/03/2012
Pastey Warrior 6A - - - - - -
Gem 6A Wicklow Raven's Glen Source Low sitter under roof - RH on arete, LH on lip. Pull on and top out via crimps Dave Ayton 24/03/2012
Mother 6B Wicklow Raven's Glen Raven's Rock (Mother) Climb the obvious rounded arete Dave Ayton 20/03/2012
Creaseproof 6A Wicklow Raven's Glen Raven's Rock (Mother) Start on low undercuts and smears. climb to top via vertical crease Dave Ayton 20/03/2012
Pain in my Swiss 5 Wicklow Raven's Glen Raven's Rock (Mother) The central line of the RHS slab Dave Ayton 20/03/2012
Albi 6A Wicklow Raven's Glen Dragon Wall Right of arete - pull onto crimps, reach left to sloper, topout Dave Ayton 20/03/2012
Trogdor 6A Wicklow Raven's Glen Dragon Wall Crimps to top Dave Ayton 20/03/2012
Close Encounters 6c+ Wicklow Raven's Glen Alien Roof Pull onto undercut mid roof and burl direct to lip - crux to top John Howard 24/03/2012
Karaoke Nightmare 6B Wicklow Raven's Glen Alien Roof Obvious line of block. Start low and right, then move lover still, then move lower again. Move left along line of holds to lip and top out Tom Bannon 24/03/2012
Gay Traverse 6A Wicklow Raven's Glen Alien Roof Start on wedge at base of roof. Go straight for lip and traverse left untill around the corner. Topout. Dave Ayton 24/03/2012
Manical laugh 6++ Dublin Scalp b.f.b. classic highball problem follow the seam across face to arete. leave the big foothold have faith in friction layback and pinch your way to the top pads and spotters helpful . The boulder is at the top of the valley above chiper visable from the road. James Gernon 08/.04/12
Skewer 6A Dublin The Scalp - Near the top of the hillside above Primer is a large square-cut block visible from the road, this problem starts at the slanting, undercut crack and tops out using a juggy sidepull directly above John Howard 08/04/12
Eyrie 6C Dublin The Scalp - starting matched on the crimp rail on the other face of the boulder, climb the prominent curving arete. classic John Howard 08/04/12
One for the short arses 6C Wicklow Glandasan Northside Problem 14 page 87 of the guide. Sit start on obvious crack sidepull and slap up left before going again to top and mantle slopey lip Dave Ayton 15/04/2012
Heartland Arete 6A Wicklow Glandasan Northside Project 17 page 87 of the guide. Sit start at the base of the overhanging arete. Left hand in the horizontal break, right hand on the quartz flatty. Climb the good edges to a good topout. Dave Ayton 15/04/2012
Baby Dragon 6b Dublin The Scalp Main Area The problem is left side from the Shady Bitch. It is easier than looks it, sit start, use the holds like in the photo, slap right and mantle. photo Damian Kawiorski 29/04/12
Every given Sunday 5+ Wicklow The Scalp Envromental boulder The middle of the tall slabby boulder. Use the juggy flake and the block on the ground to get stood on the lip of the slab. A few precarious moves revolving around the big crystal lead to the sanctuary of the island. (problem 23 in the guide). David Flanagan 12/05/2012
Shelter 6A Wicklow Glenmalure Riverside Just past the left turn for Se's boulder above the hostel. Below the path on the rivers edge. Sit start under the roof on a good undercut and climb the lip of the roof leftwards to nice finishing moves. Dave Ayton 13/05/2012
As the fly crows 6C+ Wicklow Glenmalure Se's Boulder The project Arete. Start low matched on the finger flake. Climb the arete finishing right. One pad and no spotters for full appreciation Dave Ayton 15/05/2012
Old Greg 6B Wicklow Glenmalure Se's Boulder The left wall project but from a sit start on the arete. pull on and make a long move left to the rail. Match, smear and lock to top. Dave Ayton 15/05/2012
- 5 Wicklow Glanekeera - This is the line up the left side of the face of the first boulder you pass on the walk in to Glanekeera. Use the left arete to climb the face.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8TmtUqzzK78/T8UvzCqqLWI/AAAAAAAABHQ/c9HafpMqY4s/s320/IMG_5440.JPG David Flanagan 29/05/12
MCA 5+ Wicklow Glanekeera Vert wall The line of undercuts/sidepull up the middle of the vertical wall. Bit of heather top out but there are good holds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dAt5Bbzmu0&feature=youtu.be David Flanagan 29/05/12
Hoodlum 6C Wicklow Glenmalure Fraughan Rock Problem 3 in the guide on the Fraughan Rock boulder. Sit start on the arete left of Crowd Control, mantel the bulge. Chris Rooney 04/06/2012
Just One More 6a Wicklow Ravens Glen Alien Roof Area Just below & right of Alien Roof a boulder with a horizontal seam halfway up. Climb the front corner using the seam. Alan McDonagh 06/04/2012
Ant Attack 4+ Wicklow Ravens Glen Alien Roof Area Just below & right of Alien Roof a right facing low traverse from left to right. Terry O'Neill 06/04/2012
Running Down That Hill 6C Leitrim Thur Mountain large boulder problem 4 in the guide. hard to start with a tricky mantel to finish. Hugh Hennessy 10/6/2012
Dan's Problem 5 Donegal Mullaghdoo The Sea Walls Long low boulder just right of problem 18 'Jimmy the Boat'. Problem starts low on seaward side, traverses lip of overhang then rocks over to top. John Niven 2/7/12
Long Span 6C Wicklow Glandasan Starting block Problem 7 - SS, undercut and arete - direct Dave Ayton 30/08/2012
The Roof 7b+ Kerry Gap of Dunloe Near the Turnpike A great problem. Across the valley from the turnpike, there is an obvious roof. From standing, hand on undercut, climb straight through the roof and up the wall above. Most likely climbed before but never recorded, named or graded. Unknown (?), Barry (2nd) Unknown(?)
Stainless Steel 6b+ Wicklow - The Gully Block Bouldering in Ireland, page 67, problem 3.
Climb the arête from the left. Ronan Browner 07.12.11
xtal 6+ dublin tibradden - follow the r116 out of dublin heading towards johnny foxes as the road levels out after the turn of for tibradden wood (pine forest) on the left there is some gabroon cages ( wire boxes full of stones)park here walk back down the road about 200m boulder in forest on right. start with r/h on undercut l/h on side pull slap and squeeze your way to the top. James Gernon 24/02/2013
Blush 6c Wicklow Glendalough Headless Duck boulder Climbs a lovely lip traverse up into a prow, on a huge boulder the shape of a headless duck. Its located way up in the scree slope, 25 mins directly up from 2.4 pascals. Worth the slog. Jonathan Redmond 02/03/2013
I love Pearse 5 Wickow Glendalough Headless Duck area Climbs a slanting arete from a SS to a jugy top out to the left. Right beside the Headless duck Colm Shannon 2/03/2013
PContact lenses 6c Wicklow Glendalough Headless Duck area An Amazing arete with a cool first move. boulder is located 50 metres West of the headless duck. A boulder with an amazing looking blank arete. French start on and to the left of the arete, hopping to the only hold 3/4 up arete.traverse out left to finish. Jonathan Redmond 2/3/2013
happy slapping pearse 5+ Wickow Glendalough Headless Duck area Same boulder as contact lenses, start on the left arete, traverse out right and finish up the middle of the boulder. Colm Shannon 2/3/2013
Foehammer 6B Wicklow Glendalough Black Art Start in the cave to the right of People of the Sun 8A+ - Left and undercut, right hand low on the sloping lip. Heel hook the lip and Jam onwards. The sit from the prow is a project Dave Ayton Jan 2013