TheShortSpan

Bouldering in Ireland

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Please submit any new problems to the database. When the describing new problems in relation to existing problem mention the version of the guide used.

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Name Grade County Area Boulder/Sector Description First Ascentist FA date
- 4 Wicklow Glendasan Zeifs Boulder Zeifs Boulder is 50m down the road from the IMC Hut in the forest on the left hand side. This problem goes up the face using the good ledge. Dave Flanagan Jan 2008
The Wave 5A Kerry Black Valley Bone Yard Boulder Sit start on the left. Finish at the right side. Damien O Sullivan March 08
Coup d'Etat 6c Wicklow Mall Hill Forest Arete to the right of 'Living the dream'. Pierre Fuentes April 08
Piece de resistance 6b Wicklow Mall Hill Hill Left side RHS round arete to the right of Dublin-Beauvais. Left hand done by Michael Duffy Grade to confirm. Pierre Fuentes April 08
Homeward Bound 7c? Antrim Fairhead Murlough Bay Sit start to 'Eat it left' Starting on an undercut with big reach to crimp rail on eat it left. (As seen in Underdeveloped.) James Pearson 2006
Fliddy the Postoffice cat 6c? Antrim Fairhead Murlough Bay On the 'When Molesy Met Melkor' boulder. Start on the jugs of Molesy then throw out to the crimp up and left. (Molesy Met Melkor goes straight up the middle of the boulder using a crux undercut for the right hand.) ? ?
- 6a+ Wicklow Glendasan Zeif's Boulder The very slopey right arete. Climbs best if the obvious starting foothold is used with the right foot. Dave Flanagan Jan 2008
Living the Dream 6b Wicklow Mall Hill Forest Up the steep face. Diarmuid Smyth 2005
Crack Cradle 6a+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Glanakia boulder Up to juggy break then long dynamic move to below lip and over the bulge. Diarmuid Smyth 2005
Pea Brain 6b Donegal Polldoo Glen Butterbean Lay back the obvious/easiest arete. Diarmuid Smyth 2007
Bone Yard Arete 6A Kerry Black Valley Bone Yard Boulder Start with crimps for the left and side pull for the right. Damien O Sullivan March 08
Bone Yard Arete - Sit Start 6C Kerry Black Valley Bone Yard Boulder Sit start, two hands on the large flat hold. Eoin Kennedy April 08
Kev's Nose 5B Kerry Black Valley Kev's Nose Sit start below the steep arete Kevin O' Leary March 08
Flash Dance Slab - Right 6A Kerry Black Valley Flash Dance Slab Follow the vertical crimps to the top. - Feb 07
Sé's Crack 5 Wicklow Glenmalure Sé's Boulder Climb the crack in the middle of the face. Dave Flanagan Feb 2008
Cavalier Attitude 5+ Wicklow Glenmalure Fraughan Boulder Tackles the arete on the left hand side. Ped McMahon Feb 2008
Big Boots 5+ Wicklow Glenmalure Waterfall Boulder Mantle onto the left hand side of the slab. Ped McMahon Feb 2008
Silent Valley 6a Wicklow Mall Hill - Opposite side of the road to the rest of the bouldering, SV goes up the front face of the solitary boulder. Dave Flanagan Dec 2006
Under the wire 5+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Beside Lough Nahanagan The left arete from a SS of the boulder beside the lake across from Electric Mountain. Dave Flanagan June 2007
Luminous Orange 6a Wicklow Wicklow Gap Above Lough Nahanagan On the hillside above Lough Nahanagan is a boulder with a distinctive diagonal crack climb this using a very nice pinch. Ped McMahon June 2007
Fat Belly 6a+ Dublin Bullock West Side The overhanging wall in the narrow gully, nice moves on rounded edges. Dave Flanagan Mar 2007
A little saucy 5 Wicklow Glendalough - Starting from the good holds left of 'the rails' climb the arete moving around to the left to finish. Not the best landing and the direct/right hand version would be much better. Tom O'Rourke 7 3 2008
The Sharp Arete 7a Wicklow Lough Bray - Sit start to boulder (no name 7a) very near Big Ron. Use the sharp arete (very low) for the right and the very small edge for the left. Damian Kawiorski May 08
Mickey's traverse 7a Wicklow Stonecutter's Glen Split boulder Low traverse left on the very slopey edge Damian Kawiorski 5 May 2008
The Egg Traverse 7a+ Wicklow Glendalough Lower Path: The Egg Bloc Nice sitstart to the left of problem No. 7, traverse right along the sloping lip through problem No. 7 and finish as for the egg problem (no. 10) Barry O'Dwyer Spring, 08
Romantic Warrior 5c Dublin Bulloch Harbour - - Peter McMahon July 2007
Bullet 6a wicklow off glenmacnass road - North face, Highball. Peter McMahon 2007
Crolly Crack SS 5+ Donegal Hidden Valley Boulders The one with the crack Sit start hand on big sidepull in crack.Delicate finger lock heaven.A boulderers dream??? R Hunter June 2008
Mickeys Traverse SS 7a+ Wicklow Stonecutters Glen Split Sit start arete and low traverse left on the very slopey edge Damian Kawiorski May 2008
The Razors Edge SS 7a+ Wicklow Stonecutters Glen Split North face. SS Start middle the very small roof. Use the arete for the left and the edge for the right Damian Kawiorski May 2008
Aerosmith 6a+ Wicklow Louhg Bray Grand Hotel The overhanding steep wall. Use the arete for the left and crack for the right. Problem is on the left from the Easily Taken Away. Damian Kawiorski July 2007
Hostel 5 Wicklow Lough Bray Grand Hotel The overhanding slab Damian Kawiorski July 2007
- 5 Wicklow Glendalough beyond Big Jane Tall boulder inscree southwest of Big Jane:
left arete of the overhanging face Pierre Fuentes 22/05/08
- 5 Wicklow Glendo beyond Big Jane The same tall boulder in the scree southwest of Big Jane: the side facing the river.
Pierre Fuentes 28/05/08
Under the Wing 5a Wicklow Glendasan Vulture rock Broken up boulder on the right of new st. kevins trail heading downstream from the mining village. From the trail the north side of the boulder looks like a vulture. Sit start under overhang to gain the slab. Lovely problem. Calliam Johnson 22/06/08
Builders crack 4 wicklow Glendasan Builders Bum Boulder Slab with prominent crack down the middle. From the bridge at the carpark at glendasan mining village can be seen on the left a blob boulder with a crack in it. It looks to small to be climbable but round the back (east face) is the slab. Ciaran Mulhall 22/06/08
Ron Burgundy Arete 5b wicklow Glendasan Stay Classy Boulder Follow the new st. kevins trail from the mining village in glendasan to the bottom where the stone stairs stop. Look to your right and you will see the boulder beside the fence. The right hand side is touching the fence. The left arete to the top is Ron Burgandy arete, starts on obvios undercling, great arete !! Ciaran Mulhall 22/06/08
Jazz Flute 4 Wicklow Glendasan Stay Classy Boulder Follow the new st. kevins trail from the mining village in glendasan to the bottom where the stone stairs stop. Look to your right and you will see the boulder beside the fence. The right hand side is touching the fence. The centre of the slab on slopey crimpers either side of the quartz seam is Jazz Flute Calliam Johnson 22/06/08
Born Lippy 5+ Wicklow Glendalough The Ruins Block to the right of problem 26 (offwidth) in guide version 3. Hanging slab with obvious crack through the middle. Interesting start with thuggy moves on big sidepulls to gain slab. Paul Brennan June 08
Barney Rubble's Step Up 5a wicklow Glendasan Vulture rock On Vulture Rock, Sit Start to the left of the crack and over the nose, just to the right of under the wing Joe King 08/07/08
The Kings Arete 6a+ Wicklow Glendasan The King Boulder On the King Boulder 50 meters behind and to the right of Vulture Rock, triangular shaped boulder just over the fence. The left slopey arete using the undercling on the face, whilst smearing. The best of the new Glendasan problems yet !! Joe King 08/07/08
Too Itchy 4 Wicklow Glendasan The Kings Boulder The right arete of the king boulder, 50 meters to the right and behind vulture rock. Must be climbed under vicious and sustained midgey attack for authenticity !! 12 yr old Jamie Mulhall 08/07/08
Shit Stained Socks 3+ Wicklow Glendasan River Slabs Boulder The left side of the slab face on decent holds. 12 yr old Jamie Mulhall 08/07/08
Christ's Crux of Friction 5b Wicklow Glendasan The King Boulder Up the middle of the face of the king boulder. Follow the crack left on smears to the good jug, then follw the crack right, a long reach to the small crimp, feet up top out, class !! The reach feels a bit like the move on the rails glendalough Ciaran Mulhall 20/07/08
Slabbed In the Back 4c Wicklow Glendasan River Slabs Boulder The right side of the slabby face of the river slabs boulder. In the river roughly half way down the new stone/sleeper staircase in glendasan. Tiny crimps and smears lead to good crimpy rail. A nice eliminate would be to leave the crimpy rail out. Ciaran Mulhall 22/07/08
Boulderers of the Future ... I Bid You Good Day !! 4a Wicklow Glendasan River Slabs Boulder Sit start on the lowest hand holds, under the small overhang on the right arete of the slabby face of the river slabs boulder. Slap up to the nose and mantel. Ciaran Mulhall 22/07/08
The French Connection 7b Dublin Portrane The Arch Start on "Girls on Film" and bridge onto the Arch. Climb down and around the bottom of the Arch and finish onto "the Ear". 22 moves. Pierre Fuentes 24/07/08
The Lip 6a Wicklow Glendasan The Lip Boulder Visible from 3 quaters the way down the new st kevins trail up the hill are 3 boulders clumped together. The boulder on the left with the overhanging quartz face is the lip boulder. Sit start on slopers to right of lip, then traverse the lip right to left, turn the corner and finish up the arete. Nice Ciaran Mulhall 26/07/08
The Hawk 5a Wiclow Glendasan The Hawk boulder The Hawk boulder is at the opposite side of the road to the river, at the top right of the scree just under the main crag beside the slag heaps trail in Glendasan. The left side of the prominent arete is The Hawk. Ciaran Mulhall 24/07/08
Heart Flutter 5+ Wicklow Glendasan - The right hand of two boulders 200m up the hill opposite the Big River boulder. Straight up the obvious triangular face from under the vertical crack. Paul Brennan 26/7/08
step right up 4c wicklow glendasan moby brick follow mining trail up north side of the vally to the scree under the crags moby brick is quite obivious see pic on message board . step right up is the overlapping slab on the west face of the boulder Calliam Johnson 24/07/08
crater face 4+ Wicklow Glendasan boulder alley boulder alley is a small alley made of 3 small crags directlt above the crag above moby brick on the north side of the vally . crater face is the slab with lots of little craters on the east side of the alley Calliam Johnson 24/07/08
hawk slab 4+ wicklow Glendasan hawk boulder slab on east face of hawk boulder Calliam Johnson 24/07/08
Cold Feet 5 Wicklow Glendasan Moby Brick The overhanging east face, straight forward but worrying - the landing is uneven - slap from the sidepulls to the big jug. Dave Flanagan 04/08/08
- 4+ Wicklow Glendasan Moby Brick North face, pull to the lip on the nice incut edges. Dave Flanagan 04/08/08
Mantel 5 Wicklow Glendasan Boulder Alley Just right of the mouth of the alley is a short wall with a slabby top, mantel this. Dave Flanagan 2006?
Stickmata 5+ Wicklow Mall Hill Heart Of Darkness H Of D is a nice rounded boulder in the forest above the track that bisects Mall Hill. The best way to find it to follow the forext road down the valley and a few meters past the small wooden hut hut up into the forest following the line of the firebreaks. Stickmata starts on the left and uses a few slopers to get the sidepull flake. The real price line is to the right. Dave Flanagan 20/09/08
Sketch 5+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Beside Lough Nahanagan Slap from the good sidepull on the overhanging face to the top. Peter McMahon 28/10/2008
killilagh sit start 5+ clare doolin fireworks boulder sit start under overhang/roof to the right of 'outsider' jamie mulhall 30/10/08
Far Out 6a clare doolin fireworks boulder start as for outsider then continue traverse low into killilagh sit start and finish up, pumpy !! ciaran mulhall 31/10/08
wedged 5+ clare doolin sector c the zoo sit start deep under small wedge shaped roof just to the right of the tooth problem, jam yourself like you are in a chimney, reach back for a finger lock and a crimp and follow the crack to the top Ciaran Mulhall 31/10/08
Off Width Her Head 4+ clare doolin sector c the zoo nice wide chimney just to the right of of 'on the edge' Ciaran Mulhall aug 2008
Permadry 7a? Wicklow Glendo scree Roof crack in a cave high in the scree, 100m straight up above superstars of the BMX.
Sit-Start on the big juggy crack, up to the sidepull and crack, finish on the top jug far left.
PROBABLY THE DRYEST PROBLEM IN GLENDO!!! Michael Duffy 27/11/08
The Nose 7b Louth White Bog The Nose The big pointy nose at the top of the scree.
Start under the roof. Using a crimp to the right, the sharp arête and a heal hook, slap up to the nose then rock over the lip of the roof. Descent to the right. Sit-Start project from deep back wall. Rarely in conditions Pierre Fuentes 07/06/2008
Media Tick 7a Louth White Bog Plate Boulder SS on the crimps in the groove with a heelhook on the left. Cross through to the crimps on the right, slap to the lip and rock over. Pierre Fuentes 19/07/2008
Blade Runner 6c Louth White Bog Pebble Sit-Start on the obvious jug. Go left onto the sharp crimps and left again to a hiden jug. Then reach the lip of the overhang to step out via the left arete or rockover onto the slab and top out. Pierre Fuentes 26/07/2008
Lesbian Treaty 7a+ Louth White bog Plate boulder Sit-Start on the obvious bottom step using an obvious flake far left. Slap up to the break, match and move onto the diagonal crack. Finish straight up using the sharp crimps to top out. Pierre Fuentes 18/10/2008
Starter Traverse 6a Louth White Bog Starter Arete Traverse the slopey lip from the bottom right to the top of the arete. Pierre Fuentes 26/07/2008
The Leak 5+ Louth White bog ship boulder Sit-start to the vertical crack with a high enough top out. Pierre Fuentes 26/07/2008
waterline 6a Louth White bog ship boulder sit-start as for the Leak but traverse the long horizontal break and finish round the corner to the extreme right.
Pierre Fuentes 26/07/2008
Dec's sit-start 6b Louth White bog Starter arete To the right of the Starter arete is smaller boulder with a couple of sit-start deadpoints: Dec’s sit start takes the round corner and Pierre’s sit-start the overhanging mini-arete.
Both 6b. Declan Tormey 07/06/2008
- 5+ Louth White Bog Starter Arete The small crimpy slabbish wall around the left of the arete eliminating the big jugs to the left and the arete. Pierre Fuentes 07/06/2008
Starter Arete 5 Louth White bog Starter Arete The obvious corner arete. It can be climbed from a sit start and has an eliminate on the right (basically eliminating the arete... 5+) Pierre Fuentes 07/06/2008
- 4 Wicklow Glendalough Track Boulder Just after the trees before you reach the tripod boulder a track winds its way up the hillside. Follow this until you reach a conspicuously large boulder with a slabby side facing the track. The problem goes straight up the slab, starting from a rounded sidepull, to a rail and the top. Terry O'Neill 26/11/08
- 3 Wicklow Glendalough Track Boulder Starts up the groove just left of the previous problem, using a sharp sidepull to reach the rail and finish straight up Terry O'Neill 26/11/08
Pinch Problem 6a+ Wicklow Glendalough Track Boulder On the left hand side of the boulder. Burly move up to a rounded pinch and muscle your way straight up over the nose using a big sidepull. Dermot Shiels 26/11/08
Jump start me 5+ Wicklow Glendalough - Downhill from the track boulder are 2 large boulders leaning against each other. On the uphill side is a hollow with an overhanging face. Start with a sharp left hand crimp, jump to a jug rail and finish straight up using a slopey crimp and some quartz holds. Paul Brennan 26/11/08
- 3 Wicklow Glendalough - On the downhill side of the larger of the two boulders. Start on the triangular sloping ledge and step delicately up onto the slab. Dermot Shiels 26/11/08
- 5 Wicklow Glendalough - On the downhill side of the smaller of the two boulders. Sit start at the lip of a small overhang and slap up for the good quartz holds. Terry O'Neill 26/11/08
Reardon's Roof 7a Dublin Bullock Harbour Below the Apartment Bloc Start on the left arete of the steep roof, climb to the lip proper and traverse right the full length of the boulder and around the corner to the obvious finish. Diarmuid Smyth 27/11/08
Behind the lines 6a Wicklow Glendasan Northside, cliff band Above the road on the northside of glendasan is a cliff band above the scree, on the left hand side is a very nice highball slab to the right of this is a very nice quartz overhanging face between the two is an overhanging wall. Climb this from a SS on the good incut, to the sloping shelf to a sloping topout. Excellent. Dave Flanagan 30/11/08
- 4 Wicklow Glendasan Northside, scree At the bottom edge of the scree is a boulder with vertical face, the left side of the boulder is quartz. Climb the front face using the small corner. Dave Flanagan 30/11/08
Square arete 4+ Wicklow Glendasan Northside, scree Further up the scree is a very obvious square cut arete, beside a hazel tree, climb it on the right hand side. Dave Flanagan 30/11/08
Conquistadors of the pointless 5+ Wicklow Glendasan Northside, roadside A few hundred meters down the road past St Kevins slab but on the other side of the road is a fairly obvious boulder. This problem goes up the down valley side from a SS. Mediocre at best. Dave Flanagan 29/11/08
Left to right traverse 4+ Wicklow Glendalough Chillax Clearing At the back right of the chillax clearing there is a big boulder with an obvious jug in the middle of its face.Start at the far left on a jug just over the lip and a high smear for the left foot. Make your way up the arete on improving crimps until you reach the apex (avoiding the jug in the middle of the face) and hand traverse the lip to the right arete - a high right foot around the arete for an easy mantle to finish. Phil Smith 30/11/2008
Right arete 4 Wicklow Glendalough Chillax Clearing At the back right of the chillax clearing, if you're facing the path, there is a big boulder with an obvious jug in the middle of its face. Sit start the right arete pulling up on two obvious flakes. Mantle over the top. Phil Smith 28/11/2008
Uberhang low start 6b+ Wicklow Glendalough Uberhang Croching start to the Uberhang. Start on quartz sidepull for the right hand and vague undercut/sidepull for the left, make two slaps, the first to a very slopy three finger edge and second to the letterbox jug and hold the swing. This has been done before as a dyno skipping the intermediate slopey edge. Dave Flanagan 04/12/08
- 5 Louth White Bog Plate Boulder Up in the V groove right of Lesbian Treaty Pierre Fuentes May 08
- 6b Louth White Bog the Pebble SS traverse on the lip above Blade Runner. Same finish. Pierre Fuentes July 08
- 6c Louth White Bog the Pebble Small overhang to the rear of the pebble.
Hard sit-start deadpoint from a poor break and rock over. Pierre Fuentes July 08
Crimp start me 6a Wicklow Glendalough Below miner's track On the right side of the valley just past the edge of the forest, about 100m from the track are two boulders leaning against each other. On the uphill side is a hollow with an overhanging face. Start left hand crimp on tiny crimp, right on incut crimp and cropss through to the juggy rail and finish straight on the quartz holds. Photo http://www.theshortspan.com/photo/jumpToIt.jpg Dave Flanagan 03/12/08
the Egg 7b Clare Doolin Base Camp Sit-start egg problem, just left of "Hider".
Pierre Fuentes 26/12/08
The French Connection 7b Clare Cul de Claire - Very long loop traverse linking the lip of the roof from "Cold Turkey" to the underside mantlepiece and back to the start. 40 moves (Traverse grade). Pierre Fuentes 26/12/08
Flute Boy 5 Wicklow Glendalough Hidden Groove The project called "Balance". Pull onto good left side pull and right crimp, high left foot. Span to sloper on lip with right hand. match lip and top out. Harder than other problems on face... and better - really nice move! Belgian Sean 24/12/08
Hugh 7b Wicklow Glendalough Holiday Boulders New area extensivly cleaned and blitzed New Years Eve above the zig-zags just 10 minutes walk past the Fin. 9 new problems plus 1 or 2 projects remaining, including awesome groove. Topo and pics to follow. This problem takes the perfect steep face on the riverside of the boulders. Low start in roof on opposing sidepulls, left foor on small edge, right toe-hook around block. Dave Ayton 31/12/08
In the Moon 6a! Wicklow Glendalough Holiday Boulders The striking steep arete and seam to the left of the main block. step up on sidepulls until the seam can be reached with left hand. A right heelhook helps reach high on arete with right hand before a committing reach to the sloping top can be made. Have Fun! Dave Ayton 3
Leftism 7c Wicklow Glendalough Big Jane The full line of Rhythm and Stealth. It’s a really really good link up (16 moves) with a tricky section at the bottom into the airy and fluffable top section above. Start sitting in the cave with your bum on the little bloc at the obvious big layaway. Pull on and trend leftwards and up the arete to finish. 3 stars, lovely moves and pumpy. Michael Duffy 28/12/08
lower turnpike arete 6c+ Kerry Gap of Dunloe TurnPike Rocks The problem begins at the very bottom of the roadside arete, being the boulder on the left as you look down the valley towards Killarney.
Start on a side pull, slap to the sloper and continue on crimps until the tricky dyno to the monster bucket on top.
Mats and spotters required. - -
Smash 'n Grab 6a+ Wicklow Glenmacnass - Past the carpark above Glenmac waterfall, across the river is a single large boulder. Climbs the left arete, starting on its right hand side. Possibly 6b? John Howard 07/03/09
Funzies 5c Clare Doolin Fireworks Boulder Obvious slab problem starting about a meter left of outsider. Come up under lip, then move left to gain better holds and step up over the lip. Colm Shannon July 2008
p.b.r. streetgang ? sligo lough easky the one nearest the lough three stars...climb the west face scoop to the rib exit right into the bowl...is that enough?? it seemed obvious to me at the time... dark angel feb 04
natasha 21 ? sligo lough easky the one nearest the lough to the right of 'p.b.r. streetgang' traverse the obvious flake line to dyno and mantleshelf finnish dark angel 04
bog suede shoes ? sligo lough easky the one nearest the lough the slab to the left of 'p.b.r. streetgang' dark angel 04
storming the deathstar ? sligo lough easky - directly above the road-side boulder way up on the hill-side is a beautiful big block...the problem is on the north facing side and involves a leap of faith to an obvious jug then a smear and a slap to finnish dark angel 04
shame ? sligo lough easky - the first good looking boulder,on your left driving towards the lough, is the mitre...the right arete, layway to an obvious quartz crystel for the left hand is'shame' dark angel 04
guilt ? sligo lough easky - the left side of the mitre boulder is a rippled wall...start as far to the right as possible and climb up and left...exiting in the middle of the wall...'guilt' dark angel 04
ren ? sligo lough easky - above and to the left of the road-side boulder is a tomb-stone shaped boulder,the right arete,starting in the middle and finishing up and right is 'ren' dark angel 04
stimpy ? sligo lough easky - same boulder as 'ren', same start to,just go sraight up...much harder and quite dangerous on your own without a mat...a big reach helps dark angel 04
gravitys rainbow e5 sligo roosky - james knows exactly where it is..not the road-side flake but the small crag above a couple of decent boulders...the line is obvious to anyone with eyes... dark angel 05
the death of mr. spock ? sligo roosky - below the small crag...the first good boulder you come to has an obvious arete on the right dark angel 04
keepin' it foolish ? sligo roosky - round to the left of '...mr spock' is a small cave which if you sit down and climb up is kinda' 'keepin' it foolish' dark angel 04
suck on this ? sligo roosky - if you start 'keepin' it foolish' and traverse left,swing round the corner and fight to the top that's 'suck on this'... dark angel 04
speed camera location ? sligo aughris head - the obvious warm-up line of jugs leading out of the cave up and to the left...stones and the sea can be a problem... and hide,or reveal, a good couple of extra moves...bit of a shame really...starts of hard and gets easier dark angel 04
overcoming aughris ? sligo aughris head - again it depends on the stones but basically it up to the fossilised letterbox hold and then layaway and crimp up and left.. dark angel 04
pump pig strenuos knackerd arms of death ? sligo aughris head - up to the fossilised hold and then right...end of... dark angel 04
against the day ? sligo aughris head - the obvious sea-facing groove to the left of'pump pig...', finishes up to the left...some loose holds...or at least there were... dark angel 04
Beef to the heel 6a+ Wicklow Lough Dan Righthandside Traverse the waist high roof from left to right, finish using the sidepull flake. Will be in updated guide. Diarmuid Smyth 04/04/09
Wet Eireann 4+ Wicklow Lough Dan Righthandside The square block about 20m Karma. Nice line up the corner on the left of the front face. Will be in next version of the guide. Dave Flanagan 04/04/09
TBD 6a+ Wicklow Lough Dan Righthandside On the up valley face of boulder number 9 (from guide 4.0). Start on the overhanging face slap to the slopey lip and move left to a tricky topout. PeterTom McMahon 04/04/09
Magic Eye 6a+ Wicklow Lough Dan Lefthandside The block downvalley of Shadow (number 9 in guide 4.0) has a nice very shallow groove beside the right arete. This may have been done before. Diarmuid Smyth 04/04/09
Glass Jaw 5+ Wicklow Glenmalure - Nice pure dyno from the break to the lip. Diarmuid Smyth 30/03/09
Angle Grinder 5+ Wicklow Glenmalure - Sitstart the lip and thug your way rightwards into the top out corner. Diarmuid Smyth 30/03/09
we agnostics ? sligo lough easky - i remembered a few more problems and in the interests of full disclosure i thought you should know... up and to the left (as seen from the road) of ren and stimpey is an obvious group of biggish boulders...the first good looking boulder on the left has a steep nw face and an obvious short corner in the sw face...the nw side is a boggy start on good edges leading to a couple of thin breaks...called 'i'm not going,i'm not going!!!'...i don't know how hard it is? dark angel 04
we agnostics ? sligo lough easky - just behind 'i'm not going..' is another boulder...the left arete up and right is the problem... dark angel 04
there is a solution ? sligo lough easky - the arete of 'we agnostics' but step left and traverse the boulder almost to the end...finish up dark angel 04
elmos friend ? sligo lough easky - across and left from 'i'm not going..' is a single biggish boulder...it has a rounded front side and a wee cave at the back... the obvious arete is the problem...fun dark angel 04
julia ? sligo lough easky - to the right of 'elmo's friend' is elmo's friend 'julia'...a bit of a hop to start then ear shaped jugs that you lay-away off to finish...nice dark angel 04
slave to the traffic lights ? sligo aughris head - the second problem on your sites video clip of aughris is 'slave...' dark angel 04
we don't stop for no red lights tonight ? sligo aughris head - the rising traverse R-L to the right of 'slave...'...same finish almost dark angel 04
- - - - - i hope this is helpful dave...sorry i can't grade them... i havn't a clue about grades or the exact dates, though i'm sure about the year...has anyone bouldered on the rocks near the school house about 2miles south of lough easky?...they always looked good...i'm not doing this for medals(buffy)...i'm doing it 'cause i spent a lot of time, and put a lot of effort and love into climbing these problems...not for me, for everyone...slan x dark angel 04
Entertainment for the Short 2.0 5+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Electric Mountain On the face below problem 5.

Start on a slopey crimp above the sharp pinch on the left (two mats might be required :P) and an undercut in the face-splitting crack. Again, a hard move to stand up on the right foot in the crack then balance and reach delicately for the lip. Phil Smith 12/4/2009
Entertainment for the Short version 1 6a Wicklow Wicklow Gap Electric Mountain On the face to the left of problem 5. Sharply pinch the flake with the left and pull hard on the chicken head like sidepull with the right (this is nearly a full arm span away) to get established with your right foot in the crack. Gain your balance and snatch for the lip. Phil Smith 12/4/2009
Warm yer fingers 4+ Wicklow Wicklow Gap Electric Mountain In the crack below problem 5, start low on good crimps and smear your way up to just below the lip. A high left foot gives a rockover to the top with the left hand. Phil Smith 12/4/2009
Dark Angle 6a Dublin The Scalp Roadside block On the opposite side of the road to the parking spot a few meters towards Enniskerry is a pointed boulder, this problem takes the slopey bulge beside the corner starting from the sidepull. Dave Flanagan 25/04/09
I Calcium as I Caesium 7b Wicklow Glenmacnass Solidarity block The quartz seam on the Solidarity block at Glenmacnass. Mentioned as a project in the guide. Andy Barker April 2008
Watch Fatty Break This Hold 6c Wicklow Cloghogue Pierre'sTwins block A problem round to the right of Pierre's Twins at Cloghogue (opposite side of the block) - not marked as a project in the guide. Standing start on two sidepull crimp undercuts - climb straight up the wall, passing an obvious sharp crystal. Andy Barker April 2008
The Plum sit start 7a Wicklow Glendalough The Ruins As the name suggests. Sitting start beginning directly under the hold on the standing start. Ben Thompson April 2008
Yo Mamas A Pajama 6c+ Wicklow Glenmacnass Sector 1 Project # 9 in the guide. Standing start. Climb the arete on the right for a couple of moves before rocking onto the slabby left-hand side. On the first ascent I traversed left at this point to gain the easier topout on the left as I didn't fancy grappling with the heather cornice! Andy Barker Aug 2007
Faith in Lichen 6c Wicklow Glendasan The Tank Project #1 on the Tank boulder. Standing start with hands on the lip - a hard lunge followed by a tricky heel hook move to get onto the slab. Finish up the highball slab. Felt more like E3 even with a couple of pads. Andy Barker April 2008
Johnny dawes 6b donegal rubinoid point Atlantic Wall Start on the farthest left side of the crimpy break, left of the usual start to john doe. Dyno up and right for the sloping break and finish as for john doe. Variation of john doe starting further left. Rodney Moore 24\06\09
John Dunne 6a donegal rubinoid point atlantic wall Start on the juggy holds, right of john doe. Dyno up and left for the sloping break and finish as for john doe. Variation of john doe starting further right. rodney moore 24\06\09
Cream Eggs 6a Dublin The Scalp Dublin End Same start holds as Chris’ Arete(prob4 in guide4). Eliminate the arete from now. Move up into the letterbox crack. Using the good sidepull just above, go for the top!! Static is very good or just pop. Not sure about grade because so reachy. Jack Doyle 25/06/09
Orion 7 Wicklow Glenmacnass Dice Slopey arete left of Monkey Burger on the Dice boulders. Harry Fogg July 2009
Crowd Control 6a+ Wicklow Glenmalure Fraughan Rock Glen The aesthetic sloping rib on the Fraughan Rock boulder, pic of Dave on it here- photo ,delicate moves lead to a slap for a sloping scoop and awkward top out above. John Howard August '09
Not quite mint 5 Wicklow Glendalough Path Above the Squamish block is a pear shaped boulder spilt by a cresent crack, thsi problem goes up the leftside of thes lopey arete on the LHS of the boulder. David Flanagan Oct '09
Last of the summer whine 6a Wicklow Glendalough Path Above the previous problem is a narrow corridor this problem is on the overhanging face on the right, starting at the bottom left and following the sloper up and right to a juggy finish over a dodge landing. David Flanagan Oct '09
Smelly Feey 6a Clare Doolin Basecamp Line just left of doolin crack. Gaston off a good 2 finger crimp for the left to reach an awkward crimp on the lip Colm Shannon 2009
Contact 8a+ Wicklow Carrigshouk - The imposing arête of Carrigshouk is one of the finest and most striking lines in Co. Wicklow and has been a long standing project for years.
Climbing the rhs of the bulging arête, a dynamic dead point to a slopey edge leads to delicate climbing above with a tricky move to gain the top.
Michael Duffy Dec 2009
Air Canada 6c Wicklow Glendalough Egg boulder/Path The slopey lip of the side of the boulder facing the lake. Sit start on good holds on the left. Make a powerful move up and right to some very nice slopers then mantle out at the apex. Photo: photo Jerome Legare 01/08/2009
Delusions of Grandeur 6b Wicklow Lough Bray Grand Hotel Might have gone before. The right arete on the boulder, ss right hand fingers in the crack and left hand on the arete, up to the apex and over. Short but worthwhile.
http://imgur.com/haDyU.jpg Diarmuid Smyth Feb 2010