TheShortSpan - Message Board

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

Stephen McMullan posted the following "I'll be there and more than happy to show novice boulderers about the place.....I haven't climbed in ages myself so it'll be a good match"

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

Theo posted the following "i hope to be down on the sunday and then driving back towards castlebar that evening, if that can help anyone let me know by email. all the best..."

Re:National Bouldering Championship

angela posted the following "The Irish Bouldering Championship details are being finalised- some information is now available here: http://www.mountaineering.ie/events/viewdetails.asp?ID=372 Entry forms will go up soon. Entry will cost �20/ �15 juniors/ unwaged"

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

Paul posted the following "I'll be down. Any chance of a lift from Dublin on Friday and back again on Sunday from anyone?"

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

Jack posted the following "Ill be down friday night with pad"

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

Dave posted the following "Great. Yes he does. "

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

Mark posted the following "I'm there for the whooole weekend!!"

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

dec posted the following "I'll definitely be there from Saturday morning, not sure about Friday"

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

dec posted the following "I'll definitely be there from Saturday morning, not sure about Friday"

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

michael posted the following "Don't forget that the Beligans are coming over. I think 3 of them. Dec - Kuss, Friday and Saturday?"

Re:Bouldering meet - who's going?

Tim posted the following "Me and sparkle for the whole weekend! Does Dermo still have to be last to bed on Friday???"

Re:Bouldering gathering this Sunday - Glendasan

Dave posted the following "Kev the bouldering meet the weekend after next might be a better oppurtunity. Come along to Glendo on Saturday and their should - hopefully - be plenty of people to boulder with."

Bouldering meet - who's going?

Dave posted the following "I am but only for Saturday and Sunday. Diarmuid is in charge on Friday night so be good. Who is going? Spread the word."

Re:Bouldering gathering this Sunday - Glendasan

Kev posted the following "Complete beginner to bouldering, no mat, plenty of routes experience and keen to give it a go at least once before I buy a mat - ok if I join you on Sun?"

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

andy posted the following "yep im up for that...on the weekends that im free. nice one dave. "

Re:Bouldering gathering this Sunday - Glendasan

Tim posted the following "Good luck, working so next time. "

Bouldering gathering this Sunday - Glendasan

Dave posted the following "Going to head out to Glendasan this Sunday. Will be in the carpark at the mining village at 10 if anyone is interested."

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

Simon posted the following "any idea when your going to start the trips up? I am normally in college weekends but off this saturday if someone needs a spotter or a laugh, watching me struggle up some low grades"

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

ciaran posted the following "Well up for it !!"

Rathmines Co-op Bouldering Wall looking for new members

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Posted on behalf of Chris Rooney: Hi, The Co-op has almost been in operation for just over 2 year's and we've had a several members move on and there are spaces available. There are a lot of details on the centre at: http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php?topic=1226.0 However here are the highlights: * Location is Rathmines: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=100700300356590464263.000445e06eb5ea2e940e6&z=17 * Fees: We've just renegotiated the rent and at the moment its approx �456 a year (which is broken up into three payments although a monthly fee can also be arranged (�38/month). There is a joining fee of �150 for new members to mirror the constructions costs met by existing members - this fee goes into the joint bank account for new holds or anything else that�s needed. The rent above is based on the current membership - it will drop significantly with an extra 5 or 10 people. * Suitability: to be honest its not really a place for beginners. You'd be far better off up in UCD if you're just learning to climb. That's all the bad news, the good news is its a great place to train for climbing, you have 24hour x 365day access and you're worlds away from the crowded climbing walls. For folks that are genuinely interested we can arrange a guest visit so that you can take a look at the place before committing. If interested contact me on 087-4192583 or email therealchrisrooney@gmail.com Thanks, Chris Rooney"

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

Mark posted the following "Great idea Dave, totally up for that!"

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

Tim posted the following "We could car pool. "

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

Dave posted the following "There would a list of areas and dates. I would start a thread here for each one in the upcoming week, everyone could post up if they are going. A few days before hand we settle on the best day of the weekend - or cancel if the weather is muck. Then meet up at arranged point and go climbing. Not much to it really. "

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

Tim posted the following "I'd be on for it when I'm off. "

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

Leo posted the following "sounds like an amazing idea."

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Very good idea Dave."

Re:Weekly bouldering gatherings

Kevin K posted the following "I would be up for that Dave, but not sure if I could commit to going every week. It would need to be "decentralised" so we're not relying on one person to get it together!"

Weekly bouldering gatherings

Dave posted the following "I have an idea. What about each week we nominate a place - not glendo - in Wicklow and a time and anyone who wants meets up. It might be a good way to encourage people to check out other areas and for people to share their knowledge about these places. We could choose whether to go Saturday or Sunday depending on the forecase. What do people think. There are a lot of great places that are a little neglected and I think people would like them a lot."

Re:Mat review please

Simonmcg posted the following "Thanks Dee, I think that I will just have to be patient and wait for alpkit to get there one back in. but its good to know the ocun one is not that good so it backs up my choice"

Re:Mat review please

Dee posted the following "I good friend of mine had the Ocun Hinge design pad. He did not like it. Although we used it alot the problems were that 1. it was to thin 2. the zip in the hinge system did not work very well and 3 the space between the 2 sections was way to big. "

Re:Mat review please

Tony Groves posted the following "At last! A crash-pad that can also be used as a crash-pad, i.e. you can sleep on it. I've been looking for one of those for years. I'm a rubbish boulderer but if I had one of these at least the mat would get used for something!"

Re:Mat review please

Simonmcg posted the following "here is the pad makers site http://www.ocun.cz/en/products/crashpads/paddy-dominator.html I was looking at the alpkit ones but they are out of stock till mid march so i was shopping around to see if there was any deals but alpkit do seem very hard to beat "

Re:Mat review please

Tim posted the following "I noticed some guys using the first one the other day seemed ok although I'm not keen on the big hinge just anotherthingto break or tear. The dmm pads seem really good and popular at the moment. "

Re:Mat review please

Dave posted the following "Have never used their pads. Their website is terrible I wouldn't buy one for that reason alone. Get an Alpkit."

Mat review please

Simonmcg posted the following "Hey anyone got any info on Ocun Paddy Dominator here is a link http://www.megagrip.co.uk/products/Mats/crash_pad_dominator.htm they have another smaller one for £75 which also might be worth a look http://www.megagrip.co.uk/products/Mats/crash_pad_22.htm Cheers "

Re:Dry area wicklow/dublin?

diarmuid posted the following "3 rock is particularly exposed to the winds and is perfect for the 5+ grade range."

Re:National Bouldering Championship

Adam posted the following "Is there money involved? I.e prizes entrance fee's. These comps are all well and good,but if it costs nearly as much as a weekend in font I think I know where I'd rather be."

National Bouldering Championship

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Announced at the Tollymore IBL: There will be a National Bouldering Competition in May in the O-zone in Belfast. It's organised by Angela Carlin & Mountaineering Ireland. The routesetter is top international competition setter Percy Bishton. It'll be a wee bit more formal (perhaps difficult also?) than IBL but that is totally in keeping with what it aspires to be i.e. National Championship. More details to follow......"

Re:Ron's email address

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Email sent to you Dave. S"

Ron's email address

Dave posted the following "Could someone mail me Ron's email address please?"

Re:Dry area wicklow/dublin?

Simonmcg posted the following "Cheers Dave... ill have to wait and see if it rains tonight if it stays dry overnight you never know."

Re:Dry area wicklow/dublin?

Dave posted the following "If the weather is dry for a day or two the rock will be dry almost everywhere as nearly every bouldering area in the Dublin Wicklow Mountains is exposed to the wind and dries quickly. Gradewise I'm not sure which is the best bet, try anywhere, check them all out."

Dry area wicklow/dublin?

Simonmcg posted the following "Hi I was wondering could anyone let me know where is the most likely spots for find that is dry around wicklow/dublin? I am looking for lower grades 5+ and bellow mainly with the odd thing higher. or any suggestions in general"

Re:Font Accom

Smacks posted the following "Cheers Diarymaid, Yes I am going back, but don't worry it's only for 2 weeks this time : ) Seriously though, January has been a month of injuries and sickness (just getting over a cold now) so goal is just to get climbing and do alot of circuits. p.s. did that cave roof lip problem at Robin Hoods stride last weekend. Took a bloody tip in the process though. When you boys coming back over?"

Ode to a midge

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Just for you Dave :-) http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2466"

Re:Font Accom

Tim posted the following "I'll give you a good spot Smacks, rather fall off 4's in font any how. "

Re:Font Accom

diarmuid posted the following "la musardieres campsite, the mobile homes are the future. this was just a chance to rub in the fact that you're going back, right? may you fail on fours."

Font Accom

Smacks posted the following "What was that place the IBT used in October? I'm going out in 2 weeks and am sorted but i have some friends who are looking for somewhere to stay. Cheers "

Re:The Shortspan T-shirts

Malcolm posted the following "Hi Dave, i have a cartoon I did for the club here but they are not using cartoons this year. I have lost your email so give us a shout and I will send it on to you, you are welcome to use it for a T-shirt if you like Malcolm"

craic

PeterMc posted the following "Origin of 'Craic'??? As far as i know it started from the Irish craiceann for skin, as in did you have any skin last night. Its kinda a bouldering related topic considering the endless puns about a good crack."

Re:The Shortspan T-shirts

ciaran posted the following "Shortspan chalkbags would also tickle my fancy :)"

Re:The Shortspan T-shirts

Stephen McMullan posted the following "My dive club did some clothing for members just before Xmas: t-shirts for 10euro, polo shirts for 15euro, hoodies for 25 euro, jackets for 25euro and hats for 10euro. If you can do prices like that I'd go for a hoodie. Last set of TheShortSpan T-shirts were a bit on the cheap and naff side. Nice idea and nice design but the material was poor. Logos didn't really survive more than a couple of goes in the washing machine. "

Re:The Shortspan T-shirts

Michael O'Dwyer posted the following "T-Shirts are a great idea. Its a bit more of an investment but hoodies could be good too. "

Re:Road warning

Dave posted the following "Yes I heard that it was still closed today."

Re:Road warning

leo posted the following "anyone know if this road is still out? thinking of heading to glenmacnass tomorrow..."

The Shortspan T-shirts

ciaran posted the following "Hey Dave, how about making up some 10 year anniversary Shortspan t-shirts and selling a few at the bouldering meet to help fund your printed guide project,it would be a good way for people to show their appreaciation for all your hard work over the years, I always wanted me a Shortspan T !!"

tv3 weather report boulder

chris posted the following "they show a pic of a boulder just before the weather report on tv3 at the moment, looks like wicklow and i'm sure i've seen it before..perhaps only as a photo on here though..any ideas?"

Re:black valley conditions

chris posted the following "thanks lads, wellies are in the boot, keen to check it out"

Re:black valley conditions

Damien O' Sullivan posted the following "Dave is right in what he says. Wellie boots are pretty useful. Damo"

Re:IBL Round 5 - Tollymore Mountain Centre, Mournes, Co. Down, Sat 13th Feb 2010

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Updated details here: http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,2830.0.html"

Re:black valley conditions

Dave posted the following "I'm no expert but I'd say it would be fine. I don't think seepage would be a problem. Walk in might be a bit boggy but not too bad, I'd say the road into the Black Valley mightn't be in the best condition though."

black valley conditions

chris posted the following "yo, looking for black valley beta...what shape will it be in in this time of year? does it seep much? is the walk boggy? hoping to get there this weekend, looks mega"

Re:Mats for sale

Benjamin Tsui posted the following "Hi, I am very interested in buying your bouldering mats. "

Re:Road warning

Paul posted the following "The combination of freeze-thaw then floods I would think. I'd imagine the Sally Gap is in shit as well. I was heading up towards Carraigshouk from Laragh. Couldn't even get anywhere near the Glenmacnass waterfall. It was quite a sight. Channels about a foot deep gouged out of the road and some enormous potholes. Pretty impassable for all normal cars (though that does depend on how much you care about your car)."

Re:Contact Details

Dave posted the following "I have sent you an email Paul."

Re:Road warning

Dave posted the following "Jesus. You mean wiped out by floods? I assume you mean Sally Gap."

Re:Contact Details

Paul Brennan posted the following "Just clarifying, this is not me. Dunno who would be best to contact. Dave's probably got his hands pretty full these days!"

Contact Details

Paul posted the following "Hi, Just to see if there is anyone I can contact in relation to getting some information on bouldering in Ireland for a new online Outdoor Pursuits magazine?"

Road warning

Paul posted the following "Had a good little session at Mall Hill today. Weather was mint. Just to warn anyone thinking of heading up that direction to Glenmac or Carraigshouk, the road from Laragh to Glenmac is out from a good way before the waterwall. And i do mean OUT. Looks to be not much but rubble left. Dunno what its like from the other direction. The road up over the wicklow gap was grand."

Re:sunday @ glendo

Jack Doyle posted the following "you still heading up?? i gettin dumped at kilmak garage at early o clock on sunday. wont have pad with me just shoes. gonns try hitch up towards laragh/glendo. but if you headin up drop us a text, oheigtsix1956295 "

Mountaineering Ireland AGM - Glendo

Stephen McMullan posted the following "From: http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=385 The Mountaineering Ireland 2010 AGM will take place in the Glendalough Hotel, Co. Wicklow. As the AGM is the main opportunity for members to have an input into decision-making within the organisation, all members are strongly encouraged to attend. In particular, all clubs are asked to nominate representatives to participate. The Members' Forum, like the AGM, is open to all members. Come along, hear what's happening around the country, discuss Mountaineering Ireland's priorities for 2010 and raise any questions or concerns you may have. >>>>> Any motions for discussion at the AGM, and nominations for the Board, must be received by the Hon. Secretary on or before Friday 5 February 2010. <<<<< Motions may be submitted by any three full members and should be sent to: Ross Millar, Hon. Secretary, Mountaineering Ireland, Sport HQ, 13 Joyce Way, Park West Business Park, Dublin 12 or email: secretary@mountaineering.ie The agenda for the AGM with any associated documents and a full programme of events will be published on www.mountaineering.ie on Friday 12 February 2010. Members without internet access can request a printed copy from the Mountaineering Ireland office (01 6251115)."

sunday @ glendo

andy posted the following "anyone interested in a car share to glendo on sunday morning?"

Dave MacLeod lecture- 28th January

Hannah Julienne posted the following "Dublin University Climbing Club is proud to welcome Dave MacLeod to give a public lecture: 'How Soon is Now' Thursday 28th January 2010 Doors at 7.30pm, begins at 8 pm Synge Theatre, Arts Block, Trinity College Dublin. �3 DUCC members / �5 non-members Tickets are available at the door so arrive early to avoid disappointment! 'How Soon is Now' - Having climbed the world's hardest and riskiest trad routes for several years, Dave MacLeod asks himself why the desire to keep taking risks and looking for harder rock climbs to attempt keeps getting stronger. Dave will try to show us why he loves the very delayed gratification of impossible seeming climbs so much, why getting to the top is one of the least important parts of the picture and show us some E11 climbing, on pitch 18 of his current project. http://www.davemacleod.com/home.htm http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=246806478850&ref=mf "

IBL Round 5 - Tollymore Mountain Centre, Mournes, Co. Down, Sat 13th Feb 2010

Stephen McMullan posted the following "We're delighted to announce that after a gap of several years that the IBL is heading north again! Tollymore Mountain Centre (www.tollymore.com), on the edge of the Mournes, is Northern Ireland �s National Centre for Mountaineering and Canoeing Activities. The centre is ideally located for mountain biking, hillwalking, climbing and bouldering so there's plenty to do in the area after the competition. The competition will be split into two sessions (like we ran in Galway) with a limit on the number of entrants per session. Each session will be 3.5 - 4hours long. I'll have a system in place which will allow OPTIONAL pre-registration via the Internet so entrants can guarantee their spot in advance. We'll have more info on the above, entry fees etc later Please note that due to renovations there will be no accommodation available at Tollymore itself unfortunately. I'll post a list of suggested accomodation later. There will be plenty of parking space available at the centre. Thats it for the moment - note it in your diaries. Regards, IBL Committee P.S. Don't forget IBL Round 4 in Midleton, Co. Cork on Sat 23rd Jan!!!!"

Re:Contact

richie hawtin posted the following "nice one michael. Come visit us over the other side. looks damn prime. hows the squeeze coming along? "

Mats for sale

Hugh McGuirk posted the following "Hey, I've two bouldering mats looking for a new home. The main one is an Alpkit Phud ( http://www.alpkit.com/phud/ ) Its in perfect condition! maybe a year old, with only very light use. Also included is the smaller Woomf ( http://www.alpkit.com/woomf/ ) Its got a bit more use, and is missing straps. But the foam is in great condition, it does still have a handle, it's very portable, and could maybe be left in the car as an emergency mat! http://pix.ie/hmcguirk/album/366151 I'm looking for �90 for the two. I can drop them around dublin city, or they can be collected (Kilmainham) --Hugh"

Re:Access/conditions in wicklow?

chris posted the following "i was there on saturday and it was fine"

Re:Access/conditions in wicklow?

diarmuid posted the following "i tried to get into the coop today but couldn't even open the fucking lock."

Re:Access/conditions in wicklow?

Paul posted the following "Anyone even tried getting out anywhere over the last few days?"

IBL Round 4 - Midleton POSTPONED till Jan 23rd

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Due to the road conditions and the long range forecast we're going to postpone the event by a week and run it on Sat 23rd Jan instead. We're not going to chance tempting folk to drive long distances and also want to do justice to the effort the local climbers put into organising the event and have as many of ye there as possible. So see you at IBL Round 4 - Sat 23rd Jan Enjoy the snow & ice while its there! Regards, IBL Committee"

Re:Contact

Dave A posted the following "Brilliant stuff! Looks great!"

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

paulh posted the following "The only thing I think is missing is a summary of areas people regularly go to. Locals already know this but for tourists who want to get to popular areas and meet locals this can be hard to decipher from guide."

Re:The meet 2010

Dave posted the following "Provisional date is the 19/20/21st of March."

Re:The meet 2010

Tim posted the following "Only 2 im still carrying some holiday weight, Dermo how about you??????"

Re:The meet 2010

jon posted the following "Has a provisional date been set for the Bouldering meet? Would really like to attend this year with a few people . Will need about two months to try and get strong :-) "

Re:Access/conditions in wicklow?

chris posted the following "lot of snow making some boulders mini-waterfalls, but pascals and chillax were fine"

Re:Access/conditions in wicklow?

Paul posted the following "Haven't been out in the last couple of days, but was out in Glenmac christmas eve and most things were in a pretty crap state. And that was with probably less than half the snow that fell last night. Reckon everything will be shite for at least a couple of days."

Access/conditions in wicklow?

diarmuid posted the following "has anyone got down to wicklow, glendalough or glenmac etc, to climb, is it possible to get to them and is it worth it when you get there?"

Re:Contact

John H posted the following "Wow, amazing effort michael, looks like an absolutely stunning line, well done"

Contact

Contact posted the following "Good Job Michael!"

Downtime

Dave posted the following "Sorry about that downtime. I moved hosts and there were a few problems."

Thank you so much for the bouldering guide!

Luke Meadows posted the following "Hello! I've not posted on here before. I wanted to say thank you so much for the bouldering guide! Amazing! I've just downloaded it and have been reading and it looks brilliant. I'm heading over to beautiful Ireland to bring in 2010 - and what better way than on some Irish rock. I can't wait - especially as now I know where to go! Thank you. Luke"

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Jack Doyle posted the following "I think Glendo works fine with the guide. Followin the dots is not needed. I even meet a French Font dude there who had a look at the guide on the web in the hostel and managed to entertain himself all morning on 6B's and 6C's with no pad!! Speaking of white circuits just did half of one yesterday in the pissing rain. Great way to spend a wet afternoon in Font. "

Re:tops off 4power productions

Glen Eden posted the following "awesome!"

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Eamon posted the following "Oh come on finding problems isn't that easy, if you don't know what your looking for. Who has been in Font and thought those dots and arrows are really disfiguring the rock? Now in no way am I planning to do this, but I must say when I've followed a circuits in font I have thought fair play to those who set them and even more so when my kids kids followed a kids white circuit."

Re:Boulder Lookalike Competition

JamesC posted the following "Ah Jim I'll fix it"

Boulder Lookalike Competition

PeterMc posted the following "The Boulder at 5:00 looks like Big Jim http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zrrng_id5k0&feature=related"

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Kevin K posted the following "What about posts in the ground like the Wicklow Way signposts? Made from recycled material of course"

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

John H posted the following "Completely disagree with you on this Eamon, for the reasons others have given. Even if you disagree that it would be an eyesore or wouldn't be well received well by other climbers/ other Park users and the National Park etc. which is fair enough, we're all entitled to an opinion, do you really think that permanently marking boulders is necessary just because "it would make it easier for those who don't know the place"? Is the freely available guide really that hard to use? "

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Dave posted the following "Eammon, the permit for the bouldering meet explicitly forbids marking the boulders. Aside from that I wouldn't agree with marking the boulders for ethnical and practical reasons."

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Marking the boulders would be the stupidest move you could ever make. You're in a national park. You've got huge initiative like Leave No Trace being pushed by every walking club, the park service and MI. And you reckon these folk who far far far outnumber boulderers will understand your need for coloured dots and arrows? Sure I might as well spray STEVO on the Egg."

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Eamon posted the following "Oh come on do you all honestly think that some dots and small unobtrusive numbers and arrows would seriously disfigure the boulders in Glendalough? It would make it easier for those who don't know the place,quite simply and I would be amazed if national parks division would be up in arms about it "

visit

Ines posted the following "Hello everyone My name is Ines, I am spanish and I have some holidays from the 4th of december untill the 13th. I am planning to go to Dublin that days and I wonder if there would be any possibility for me to go climbing or boulderingm or just training in any wall. I suppose the weather won�t be very good. Thanks for your help Ines "

Re:Largest boulder in Ireland?

Dave posted the following "Its wouldn't even be a contender."

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Dave posted the following "I have talked about this with Kev Byrne, he uses a GPS every day in work, he felt that due to steep valley sides a GPS wouldn't be that accurate and would give quite different readings for same place each time."

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Pierre posted the following "And yes I meant "that would add a whole new dimension..." Still It'd be nice to have an article with say a blue, a red and a black circuit including the classics. And Paul: Circuits are an excellent way to make you fit. Also, they are less repetitive in terms of moves and you tend to keep warm because you don't really stop climbing, so that means less injuries. But you're not supposed to do them at your max. That's probably the reason why it wrecks your skin dude!"

Re:Largest boulder in Ireland?

Pierre posted the following "What's the size of the watch tower in Kerry? Never been but it looks like a contender."

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Pierre posted the following "which is where the guy with a GPS I-phone comes handy Timmo! How about virtuals circuits with GPS coordinates accessible on your mobile. Now, that would had a whole new dimension to bouldering! (Yes, this would be against my exploration ethics, and yes that was a joke, but I'm still not going to add any stupid smiley.)"

Re:Lady Elizabeth's Cove, Tramore, Co. Waterford

Dominic posted the following "You mean me? I was there about 14 years ago, nice tidal problems, i have forgotten though, I think there was another area further on from the one in the guide, but the memory is a bit hazy"

Re:Glendo carpark

petermc posted the following "Yeah a big thank you to all, and who knows? Maybe next year we'll be allowed out till six thirty."

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Tim posted the following "Paul your a girl, I think people like circuits,it's a way of people or locals sharing there knowledge with others what you think or general concensus suggests would be a good few problems to try around a particular grade level. It might not be the original reason I dont belive everyone goes to font to get fit for the alps. I think that you could still get a good circuit even with the landings and it woul;dnt be about doing loads of problems in a session just a good way to spend a session.I also dont think you would have much need to go to far off in to the scree to get a good list of problems together. I wouldnt like the idea of marking the rock area but once the boulders have been located I think it's fairly staright forward. "

Re:Largest boulder in Ireland?

Dave posted the following "A boulder is on the ground, a cliff is of the ground?"

Re:Largest boulder in Ireland?

aliwilson posted the following "its really a question of when does a boulder become a cliff. Fairhead has loads of boulders that have fallen off the main cliff that are waaaaay bigger than a lot of crags. "

Glendo carpark

Stephen McMullan posted the following "The car park in Glendalough will now be open until 6 pm on Saturdays and Sundays over the winter. Wicklow Uplands Council, Wicklow County Council, Mountaineering Ireland, the car park operator and concerned boulderers, climbers and hillwalkers made this extension of opening hours a reality. Thanks to all."

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Paul posted the following "I don't think a circuit need necessarily be marked out by painted arrows. The guide is good enough to get anyone with half a brain to their desired problem, so a list is all that would be required. Personally I don't think circuits would work in Glendo, for a couple of reasons. First, its not font. The landings aren't all nice flat and sandy. Constantly going between problems especially in the scree can be a pain in the arse. The rock isn't really condusive to doing loads of problems in a session. How many problems are in a typical font circuit? 20? Maybe I'm being a ladyboy, but after doing 20 6a's on the trot on Wicklow granite my hands would be worn down to the bone! Finally, Glendo doesn't exactly fit in with the original ethos of the circuit concept (which was to train for the alps if I'm not mistaken). If you want to train for the alps, theres a sizeable crag about 15 minutes walk from the boulders! "

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Dave posted the following "The national park (quite rightly in my opinion) wouldn't premit any form of permanent marking of the boulders. So don't get too excited about this."

TALK CIRCUITS ON THE CIRCUIT THREAD

Dave posted the following "Do."

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Michael posted the following "As for the guide, a nice book would be great for promoting Wicklow on a national/international stage. I'm sure a robust book would survive the harshness of Wicklow!"

Re:Virtual circuits in Glendo

Dave posted the following "I have deleted the off topic replies and put them here "Funny meself and James were talking about this during our mint lamp session in Glendalough that was mint. i think Glendo's accessability would be greatly increased for many of your guide users (a lot of whom are new to glendo? ) by a "suggested circuit" feature." Diamuid "Look at me using the word mint twice, I enjoyed being in work. how many would you put in a circuit and what would you put in/leave out? also how would you mark them? I liked the string idea for the meet but what would be more permanent?" Tim "I'm principally thinking of the "feet don't touch the ground" warm up circuit around the egg/rails boulders, which would be a concentrated blue of 15 - 20 probs. Other areas would have possibilities but i think this is the most consistent concentrated example of a circuit. I don't think you need to mark anything on anything, the guide would merely say what problems were in the circuit and the reader would try them confident that they were a worthy bunch of problems of a consistent grade. The question is could you rustle up a white/black circuit in glendo?" Polos "I think there should be several circuits. Maybe mini circuits. There is definitely enough for 2 blue and red circuits. Village/base camp, Big Jim side and upper track. Maybe one black for the entire valley?" Michael "

Please take the circuit to its own thread

Dave posted the following "Nobs."

Virtual circuits in Glendo

Dave posted the following "Please take the circuit here."

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

polos posted the following "I'm principally thinking of the "feet don't touch the ground" warm up circuit around the egg/rails boulders, which would be a concentrated blue of 15 - 20 probs. Other areas would have possibilities but i think this is the most consistent concentrated example of a circuit. I don't think you need to mark anything on anything, the guide would merely say what problems were in the circuit and the reader would try them confident that they were a worthy bunch of problems of a consistent grade. The question is could you rustle up a white/black circuit in glendo?"

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

michael posted the following "I think there should be several circuits. Maybe mini circuits. There is definitely enough for 2 blue and red circuits. Village/base camp, Big Jim side and upper track. Maybe one black for the entire valley? As for the guide, a nice book would be great for promoting Wicklow on a national/international stage. I'm sure a robust book would survive the harshness of Wicklow! "

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Tim posted the following "Grade whore. Look at me using the word mint twice, I enjoyed being in work. how many would you put in a circuit and what would you put in/leave out? also how would you mark them? I liked the string idea for the meet but what would be more permanent?"

Re:Largest boulder in Ireland?

Paul posted the following "Theres one beside Lough Tay thats easily the size of my house. Theres some feckin enormous ones at Murlough Bay too. Hard to compare, but the one at Lough Tay is probably the biggest I've ever seen."

Largest boulder in Ireland?

Dave posted the following "Biggest I've seen is beside Curraghmore Lake in the Reeks, Kerry. It's big. Any other contenders?"

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Diarmuid posted the following "Quitter. Funny meself and James were talking about this during our mint lamp session in Glendalough that was mint. i think Glendo's accessability would be greatly increased for many of your guide users (a lot of whom are new to glendo? ) by a "suggested circuit" feature."

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Tim posted the following "I want to join the blue team."

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Dave posted the following "Thanks James. I think that there definitely will be virtual circuits in the near future. A blue for you, me and Ped and a red for the grade whores."

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

JamesC posted the following "The bouldering guide is very easy to use and well thought out. I was just wondering would there be room for a section on circuits? The obvious place is Glendalough where there is a high concentration of boulders close together. Would there be possibilities towards a blue/red circuit like in font? "

IBL Round 2 - Dingle, Co. Kerry - Sat 21st Nov

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Just a preliminary announcement re the Dingle comp. The routesetting team will be John Harrison (senior setter) assisted by Juan O'Raw and John Hussey. J.Harrison & Juan were involved in the routesetting last year and did a great job by all accounts and this year will be assisted by J.Hussey who will be setting his first IBL competition. More details on the competition are available on the IBL page at : http://www.climbing.ie/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=224&Itemid=37 But I'd start booking into the Grapevine hostel now. Roll on Kerry! [PS there's some details of lifts / hired buses from Dublin here: http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php?topic=2671.msg11876;topicseen#msg11876]"

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Stephen McMullan posted the following "For what its worth Dave I think the guide is superb as is and should be more than enough to get folk to the rocks while still leaving a wee bit of initiative up to them. I thought some of the idea of bouldering was to try out stuff for yourself and improvise etc. and not be as overprescriptive as a climbing guide i.e. these routes exist (and nothing else) and go exactly here (and no where else). If I was dreaming I'd suggest that the PDF guide could be backed up with a gallery of images on the website of the areas/boulders and where the problems go. Oh no I've contradicted myself. AGAIN!!!! Keep up the good work. S"

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

ciaran posted the following "The way it is is great, but a nice fancy guide book like the burren one would be sweet !! The Doolin bouldering section in that is a joy to use !! Did anyone manage to find/climb ak47 yet ?"

Re:Found shoe in Glendo

petermc posted the following "It was the chick with the 2 ugly sisters"

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Tim posted the following "I like it the way it is, a nice book shelf one to leaf through on a rainy day is cool but i like being able just to print what i need and not worry when it gets trashed. May be you could offer both like people have started doing with dvd's with extras in the hard copy. You could have an out takes section at the back were you leave in funny spelling mistakes."

Re:Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Stephen Mc Gowan posted the following "In the past I've gone to Reads on Nassau St. and gotten the bouldering guide printed and bound, only cost me a couple of quid an it was handy to have. There's always the option of something like lulu.com if more people wanted something printed properly, just had a quick look it's �15.25 for the current guide published (Colour, A5, Perfect Bound) if you have 25 or more people...don't think that includes the postage though."

Future direction of theshortspan bouldering guide?

Dave posted the following "I'd be very interested in people's opinions on their preffered future direction for the bouldering guide, the options I suppose are stay as it is, charge for download (who would ever vote for that?), cheapo print guide, fancy print guide? Any opinions?"

Found shoe in Glendo

Jane posted the following "I found a single white anasazi shoe near the warm-up boulders this Sunday. Size 7. Anyone missing one? "

Re:Mournes bouldering

si posted the following "Your not joking are you?"

Topo maker

Dee posted the following "This is an application desgined by a climber to make topos. Its very easy to use. http://sites.google.com/site/betacreator/"

Re:�land,Finland Bouldering

petermc posted the following "They are awesome photos michael, I mean totally."

Re:Lady Elizabeth's Cove, Tramore, Co. Waterford

Dave posted the following "Looks pretty good. I believe Dom and the Foggs have bouldered there before, anyone have anything to add to the guide?"

Lady Elizabeth's Cove, Tramore, Co. Waterford

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Jade sent me the following: http://www.strandgreen.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Lady-Elizabeth-v2.pdf"

�land,Finland Bouldering

JamesC posted the following "Savage spread on Aland, Michael, great photos"

Re:V10s

Steve posted the following "Cheers Ill give them a go."

Re:V10s

Paul posted the following "Cloud Cuckoo Land mate. Could try fleabay on the off chance, but i doubt you'd get your hands on a pair of those for love nor money. Try a pair of Dragons or the new Teams http://outside.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/4503"

Re:Abused problems?

dec posted the following "boulderer's are not entirely innocent - I've certainly seen discarded tape and butts left in places that I assume only boulderers go, but on the other hand I haven't seen the image of wanton filth suggested by Gerard. "

V10s

Steve posted the following "Anybody know where i can buy some 5.10 v10s size 8."

Re:Abused problems?

chris r posted the following "no i havent seen any climber generated rubbish at the boulders - where does this happen? up north? i must admit i'm assuming wicklow must the most popular bouldering area in the country so if these issues are not occurring in, say, glendalough, then i struggle to see how they could happen elsewhere. "

Re:Abused problems?

Gerard posted the following "I never mentioned Wicklow once,I thought The Short Span was for bouldering in Ireland.Forgetful climbers are everywhere it seems."

Re:Abused problems?

Gerard posted the following "Chris I am not trying to change peoples behaviour,I think they should change their own.Maybe your right and I did sound like a condescending prick when I used words like idiots and ill-informed?Lets just say that they are forgetful then. "

Re:Abused problems?

dec posted the following "Lidl figrolls are the way to go but footwork is definately over-rated.... "

Re:Abused problems?

Tim posted the following "Dec and Pierre are both figroll fiends! I'm not blaming them for the rubbish as they both leave no trace, Dec won't even use his feet to minimise the rubber left on rock! However it shows they make you strong. "

Re:Abused problems?

Stephen McMullan posted the following "And I think the figrolls mention is definitely a blind. I've never seen a boulderer with figrolls. If it was penguin bars then ok that would be half believable."

Re:Abused problems?

Dave posted the following "Chris's tone was pretty harsh I think you would agree. Thats what I was reffering to. But as I said in the reply to Chris I don't see excessive chalk and climber rubbish as a major problem."

Re:Abused problems?

Dave posted the following "This board isn't just for climbers who climb in Wicklow. Never seen any litter at the boulders Chris, I find this hard to believe. Granted I don't think excessive chalk or climber rubbish is a major problem."

Re:Abused problems?

chris r posted the following "i've never seen any litter/excessive ticks etc in wicklow so why exactly is this guy giving out to the climbers who read this board? "

Re:Abused problems?

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Yeah but is he right or wrong? Where can I find these druggie flytipping boulderers? I only ever boulder on the path in Glendo and they ain't there so where? I feel like I'm missing out and I hate not being part of the "scene" :-) S"

Re:Abused problems?

Tim posted the following "I try and avoid tick marks as i know im to lazy to clean them off. Although I met an irish exile at the weekend who was convinced they helped climb a problem, then I felt reflected shame when others came and judged!"

Re:Abused problems?

Dave posted the following "Very harsh Chris."

Re:Abused problems?

chris r posted the following "here's a tip for you gerard - try to not come across as a condescending prick when trying to change people's behaviour. "

Stop chalking footholds...

Diarmuid posted the following "A pet piss off of mine is the dousing of footholds in chalk. By all means tick them strategically if they are hard to spot but chalking them is completely unnecessary and actually makes them less effective footholds. I don't think littering is a problem generally. Occasionally a bit of tape gets left by accident but otherwise i think boulderers are very good for cleaning up as they go."

Re:Abused problems?

Gerard posted the following "Lets hope everyone reads and sticks to them, Cheers Dave"

Re:Abused problems?

Dave posted the following "I have moved them up to the top."

Re:Abused problems?

Gerard posted the following "Maybe be an idea to have the guidelines at the top of the homepage for all to see,no excuses then,rather than at the bottom. "

Re:Abused problems?

Dave posted the following "Its all common sense really. There is a link on the homepage to the following http://www.theshortspan.com/features/guidelines.htm which covers everything I think. Its been quite dry the last few months which is why the tickmark situation might seem worse than usual. Everyone knows its not ok to leave rubbish."

Re:Abused problems?

Gerard posted the following "For the life of me I can't understand why people don't clean up after their own arse.Not everyone needs a rookie mark to see where their going,so don't leave it there,and all the brushing in the world won't make a hold you can't grasp holdable.It doesn't take a minute to gently clean off your chalk,pick up your cig and joint butts,plastic bottles,finger tape and empty fig roll packets and leave the boulders in their natural state.Remember the boulders are in nature,whatever you bring into it make sure you take out and minimise impact to it while your there.Maybe The Short Span should try and educate the idiots/ill-informed about GOOD and BAD behaviour to the boulders and the surrounding nature.It is responsible for guiding these people into the areas and to the boulder problems so maybe it could have this educational info on its homepage like Bleau info has on theres.Something has to change or the boulders and areas will be destroyed in the future.I'm sure some people will think and say that this is a bit over the top but the sooner we start cleaning up after ourselves and others and taking more care of the places we boulder in we'll lessen the damage in the future.Take responsibilty or take yourself off. "

Re:Abused problems?

Tim posted the following "Sorry more haste less speed. On the path side, the mantel that goes up the middle of the egg boulder has a big White patch for the same reason as the fin. I doubt it's due to brushing or exsesive chalking. How's that??"

Re:Abused problems?

Dave posted the following "The Fin is higher up and more exposed than the problems on the path. Next time you are in Glendo go and look at The Plum, the incut hold on the face is whiter than the rock around it but this whiteness extends down the rock below the hold I think this is a result of the chalk mixing with water running down the face and a chemical reaction kills the lichen that covers the rock. "

Re:Abused problems?

Dave posted the following "Try again in English their Tim?"

Re:Abused problems?

Tim posted the following "The mantel thing is the rocks whiter were the hold is. "

Re:Abused problems?

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Interesting theory Dave. Not sure if I buy it. If that was the case I would have expected the problems directly on the path to be in a similar state."

Re:Abused problems?

Dave posted the following "There certanly was plenty of tickmarks on CT. Didn't see much evidence of overbrushing though. Its ironic that its nearly always the harder problems that are loved to death rather than the easier ones that might interest beginners who could plausibly plead igonorance. In my opinion The Fin is in a bad state due to a chemical reaction between the rock and chalk. Its particularly bad on The Fin as its so exposed. Thats not to say there has been some over brushing on as well."

Abused problems?

Paul posted the following "Just saw this over on ukclimbing.... http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50009 The state of that careless torque problem was pretty disgraceful. Are there any problems in Ireland that have suffered the same ill treatment? Other than the obvious, such as The Fin and the start of Mushroom Boyz (which I've heard few places that the start has gotten easier from trying/brushing). In any case, another warning to look after the boulders. They're not indestructable!"

tops off 4power productions

topsoff4power posted the following "http://www.vimeo.com/7205195"

Wicklow weather station

Stephen McMullan posted the following "This guy runs an amateur weather station in Annamoe: http://www.annamoe.net Check out the reports and graphs at the top of the screen. Perhaps you could convince him to install a midge counter :-)"

Re:IBL Round 1 - DCU Sat Oct 31

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Details of the prizes and entry forms for the IBL are available at http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php?board=4.0"

Re:2.4 pascals

Paul posted the following "Some dickhead pissed on the start of the egg traverse while i was having lunch between attempts last winter. Well cheesed off i was. I never saw turds under the BBE roof though."

Re:Tall frenchman

Dave posted the following "What do I think of not describing every single problem in an area for a guidebook? I think usually its the best way to go. Eliminates are fine but they aren't worth documenting in my opinion. The existance of numerous variations on a problem detracts from the original problem unless the variations are improvements on the original in which case they aren't variations they are the line. I'm not a fan of describing every problem just cause someone once bothered to climb it. The new problem DB exists so new problems can be documented with cluttering up the guide. "

Re:2.4 pascals

Dave posted the following "I used to refer to Superswinger as 'the human shit project'"

Re:2.4 pascals

Pierre posted the following "Is it not Barry who wanted to call BBE "The Human Dump" for the same reasons?"

Re:Tall frenchman

Pierre posted the following "Yep, I also wanted to make some comments of the problems quality described in guides. For example, John Watson's guide is sometimes only an outline of the potential an area has to offer, i.e. he describes only a small selection of problems. The Flan has to do the same otherwise the guide would just explode your browser virtual memory. But there's matter for further debate on his "easiest way up choice" approach. What you think Davo?"

Re:2.4 pascals

dec posted the following "nasty..."

2.4 pascals

John H posted the following "Someone/ something decided to projectile vomit/ have diarrhea under 2.4 pascals leaving a well camouflaged surprise for anyone wanting to try the ss, just thought a warning might save someone else from finding out as messily as i did... not a bad day otherwise, decent conditions between the drizzle with a bit of a breeze down the valley"

Tall frenchman

Tim posted the following "Nice piece man have no idea when it went up, I love the idea of cost per problem. this could span to areas to visit. "

Mournes Weekend

Ewan posted the following "I'm thinking of going to Bunnion on Sunday.Will there be anybody bouldering up there to show me where the problems are or can anyone post a topo up here before then? "

partners

Romario posted the following "hi everyone, im a brazilian climber, well, not so much a climber yet, still struggling on v4s or somthing like that, and i recently moved to dublin and would love to go climbing outdoors, i've been to ucd wall a couple times but that's pretty much all the climbing i've since i got here, so if anyone is going out sometime and don't mind me tagging along it would be really great thx"

Day out.

R Hunter posted the following "Hey Dave,if you could give me a phone.I've lost your number.We can arrange to meet in the next few weeks as the lights starting to fade.Was on binnian yesterday.Windy yet good conditions,I think you guys will enjoi a day up here!"

Re:Northern Exposure

R Hunter posted the following "Hey Dave,I've lost your number.Give me a phone and we'll arrange a Sunday in the next few weeks,get the ball rolling. Weathers been pretty good in the mountains recently(the grounds quite dry).Speak soon."

Re:Northern Exposure

andy posted the following "yup. id be keen. either or. doesnt bother me. "

Re:Northern Exposure

statmanpa posted the following "have a meet at the head. Sean's dead on with camping or you could camp at the murlough end on this beautiful big bay. the head is the place because it's totally condensed. there's plenty of problems in a good grade range. 6's and 7's and plenty of hard projects. there's also easier stuff still to be climbed which might get developed if there was a bigger crowd climbing up here that there is now. there's about 20 established problems at this end that get done pretty regularly. nearly all the problems are steep and dry quickly if it rains. it'd be really good to boulder at the head when there's plenty of people about and plenty of pads. in the last few years locals have been flattening landings making it much safer to boulder up there. they've also looked after the place well and encouraged people not to leave a mess and to look after the blocks.pads have been left and shared and last year saw some really good new problem. That all said, i would have suggested a meet before however i was at the crag when that dude got stuck under the block and it made me realize it's not the safest place to host a meet. the crag has been pretty active at this end in the last few years. Literally stuff has fallen off the crag and passed the boulders. it�s also really easy to fall down holes when moving between the boulders. just wanted to mention this not in any way to spoil the psyche but it�s just best people are aware of that sorta stuff when their up there. I think all you dubs� and westys� would be very psyched for the head. if your having a meet in the mournes it's just a bit more epic. "

Re:Northern Exposure

Dave posted the following "I would be on for this, would prefer Binnian. Not sure I could come for a weekend but would definitely come up for the day. Is there not a hut in Mounres we could use? Or we could all camp in Smack's Garden?"

Re:Northern Exposure

Dave posted the following "Rob I remember that day very well."

Re:Northern Exposure

aliwilson posted the following "cool idea sam. i'd be in. FH is probably easier but to be honest i suspect our Southern Brethren would be more keen to get some beta on the mournes as it is uncharted territory at the minute. Binnian would be a great place for a team mission cos theres so much in one place. The question would be where to put everyone. People could just camp somewhere in the valley i suppose? That would leave the option of splinter groups heading to chimney rock as well? "

Re:Northern Exposure

Paul posted the following "Tim, 2 weeks without climbing and I've lost all shame! Will you climb with me ? I'll shower, promise...... And Steve......Feck off! You know its glandular....."

Re:Northern Exposure

Tim posted the following "Paul stop beggin for partners its embarrassing!!!! Id be on for it with the same exception as ste offers."

Re:Northern Exposure

S Mc Gowan posted the following "I'd be up for it...but not if Pauls coming....he smells funny :P"

Re:Northern Exposure

Paul posted the following "I'd be very much up for it. I'm living in coleraine at the moment, so if anyone fancies bouldering at Fair Head, give us a holler."

Re:Northern Exposure

R Hunter posted the following "Would be up for it.Share the passion.Although if its happenin before the new year it would be best to be in the next two months as the weather gets a bit poo!I think Mr's Flanagan and O'dwyer have vague memories on top of chimney rock in winter,its not good.Or should I say its hard to feel ones fingers."

Northern Exposure

Sam posted the following "After reading the last threads on the messageboard about the Mournes and Fairhead I was wondering if anyone would be interested in a Bouldering Meet up this end of the country. I would just like to see how many people, if any, would be interested. It would be great to arrange something positive for all us boulderers, especially for the folks who have never made the journey up here, to get together and share the area's and the problems. A step in the right direction away from that surfer mentality mentioned before.Get posting and lets see if we can get something going.Thanks Sam"

Re:Mournes bouldering

diarmuid posted the following "no idea, not till nov anyway..."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Glen Eden posted the following "get out and take a look yourself's if you want to wait thats cool followers do that! take a chance try a new area be rewarded! some of the time..."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

michael posted the following "So why doesn't somebody produce a simple topo for the mournes and keep us all in the loop. ( Maybe a bit more detailed then what is coming out in the new guide. )I remember spending a day walk the wrong way up to Binnian and ending up not getting any climbing done. My stupidity, yes, but a simple topo would have ensured a good days climbing, and not a day walking in the mountains. Sharing is caring!"

Re:Mournes bouldering info from below

diarmuid posted the following "Cheers, mined from your posts below. *** Binnian probably has the highest concentration of good quality problems. Walking in up the wall will take 1hr ish. As you pass the last wall you'll see an obvious boulder on it's own out to your right. it has a few lines up the slab (one of which is featured in UD). Further back behind that is an obvious square cut overhang. Two problems start there - one obvious one climbs the overhang, the other goes right. Directly above that is a steep slab with two faint lines up it. Left one is easier. Right one is awaiting second ascent. Both feature in UD. Around the back of that tor (20-30 yds walk round the corner - and directly opposite the big slab) is Vibrorings which is brilliant. Keep walking round the tor for 5 minutes til you're overlooking silent valley. There's a nice arete there (photo by craig hiller of andy marshal falling off it on mournes climbers) Heading over to the other tor you'll pass the small tors delta and jabberwock. There's a few fun problems on those. One goes through the obvious roof which is a great position if a bit scrittly. Keep going to the north tor where there's even more brilliant problems. A lot of them are obvious. One of my favourites has a lot of names but we call it Mr Potato head - it's on the left hand side as you approach, up the middle of a big boulder. it follows a rail up the middle of that wall. There's another two or three probs there. Hunt around the north tor - there's plenty more there. Chimney rock is also worth a visit. There's two or three brilliant problems but it's not as extensive as binnian. Good hunting. *** on the walk up to pearces castle you pass turnum (?sp) rock on the left. it has a few lines worth stopping at if you're going to pearces. I think the best way to describe it is that there are two outcrops which roughly face towards the track. one of them is a distinct face with a few cracks up it. They are quite good problems. prob font 6a or b Further from the track there is like a long wall with a few obvious lines up it. They are overhanging to start. from memory they are probably 6b and 7aish. Up at pearces there are a few good lines but i must admit i cant remember them very well. There is however a slopy arete which is a 3 star classic. To get to it follow the track right to the end which is behind pearces castle. stick to the right hand side of pearces and walk almost to the end of it. There's like a slabby arete which is brilliant - probably 7aish. One or two days in the area would probably be enough i'd say."

Re:Mournes bouldering

aliwilson posted the following "binnian is your best bet. highest concentration of good problems. it's all in the new mournes guide but the MI are being mega inefficient in publishing the darn thing. search the posts below theres some beta in an old post i did"

Re:Mournes bouldering

petermc posted the following "Hey Barney, there's better money in hiking and golf"

IBL Round 1 - DCU Sat Oct 31

Stephen McMullan posted the following "The first round of this seasons IBL is not far off. Info and rule changes can be found here: http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php?topic=2606.0"

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Tim posted the following "Just ask I think I dropped Ricky a mail about Fermanagh and got loads of details back. its probably more a case of the right people right questions."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Justin posted the following "I was talking about our friends in Fontainebleau France, not Pierre."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Paul posted the following "Ok, I've done less tramping around looking for new boulders than some but I've done more than most. When I'm at home, getting in my car and driving to Fermanagh would take at least 4 hrs so I would like to have some idea of what to look for and where to look for it when I get there. I'd love to hit up some new venues, but driving to Fermanagh on the off chance? I don't think so. Pierre may have kept his spots to himself for a wee while to develop them, but he always came out with a detailed topo. Wheres the topo for the Mournes? Or any information whatsoever about stuff in Fermanagh? Or would that be "spoon feeding". I agree with Dave, the surfer mentality of constantly re-inventing the wheel is rubbish. If people are beavering away developing some savage new area, brilliant! More power to 'em. But could you please let the rest of us know when you're done? Ta :-)"

Re:Mournes bouldering

Steve posted the following "Binnion sucks. It's always freezing and windy and wet and the problems are really not that good, just the best of a very bad bunch. They're not even boulders just climbs on the tors like all the rest of the "bouldering" in the Mournes. I'd stay in Wicklow if I where you, easy walk ins and loads more to do. Not worth the drive, the walk or the expense. "

Re:Mournes bouldering

Barney posted the following "Hi all.I have extensive knowledge of bouldering in the mournes.In spring 2010 I'm starting a guided tour of the mournes bouldering spots.I'm proposing one day and weekend excursions,including lunch and B&B.Prices tba but minibus will be provided from belfast.You can email me at above e.mail."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Mike posted the following "Take's all sorts I suppose."

Re:Mournes bouldering

Ricky posted the following "Agreed Binnian is probably the best area to start."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Ewan posted the following "Can't beat a bit of X Factor.I would rather sit on my ass on the sofa with a cold beer in front of the tv than roam around the hills and valleys in the pissing rain, mist and cold looking for boulders that may have a problem on them.Fuck that,theres always somebody else thats going to do that and then post up pictures,directions and the location so why bother.They might be the first to see these problems and places and the first to climb them but so what as long as they tell the rest of us.If they want to put in the effort great,I'll just wait for a guide to come out and go and do them then.Lazy,maybe.Smart,you betcha."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Ricky posted the following "From the previews I have seen of the new Mournes guide don't expect a lot of detail on Mournes bouldering.... it shows a few of the hard problems here and there but is by no means a complete guide to all the areas or problems."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Justin posted the following "Lets be honest guys there are no secret spots in ireland,just get in your car and go for a drive.Pick up some old dusty guides and have a nosey,explore.Do we need to be spoon fed everything.Guys who do the ground work have every right to keep it to themselves(like our french friends)Yes they may pick some of the plum lines before giving it to the masses but why not after all they're the ones roaming round in wellies in the pissing rain will the rest are watching x factor. "

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Paul posted the following "And what about this "Fermanagh is the future" business? Where abouts? People don't have to give away projects to supply info on a new and promising location. "

Re:Mournes bouldering

Paul posted the following "Binnian is good. I've only visited the north tor, but theres good stuff there and more elsewhere. Theres info posted up on this forum somewhere. Its a bit of a slog of a walk in though."

Re: chalk and 'spilling the beans'

Dave posted the following "I agree excess chalk and tickmarks are unsightly. Glendo probably suffers more from this than most due to its popularity. The reality however is that unless there is a long dry spell - like the one that just ended today - the chalk is regularly washed away by the rain. So I don't see it as a major problem. What I do/would see as a major problem would be this "spilling the beans" business. I would hate for bouldering to be like surfing will all the aggro and secret spots. For some reason there has always been very little information about bouldering in the Mournes but I never thought it was been kept secret. The imminent Mournes guide I believe will have some bouldering information so the jig is up either way."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Justin posted the following "Obviously the Mournes isn't as bad as Wicklow because the walk in's keep it safe from the punters and the majority of people that can be arsed to walk up there clean the chalk off although I have seen a few rookie marks and ticks and the odd savagedly scrubbed footholds on Mushroom Boys and the slab on Pierces Castles for example.Wicklow suffers from over-use and laziness which is yet to be seen in the Mournes but if this forum keeps spilling the beans about the quality up here then it may be a problem in the future.Everybody should be doing their part to keep their bouldering areas clean and tidy even if you didn't put the chalk there or leave the rubbish.If we all do our bit then it will be there for future generations to enjoy in the same way the generation before left it for us. "

Re:Mournes bouldering

Justin posted the following "When are you going to go?"

Mournes bouldering

diarmuid posted the following "I've yet to try any of the bouldering in the mournes and the thread below is making a good case for it. Where I should be heading to make the most of a trip up from dublin, the more specific the better? "

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

R Hunter posted the following "Agreed,head first for halo's is outstanding its got everything commitment beautiful rock and movement.Final notes greyabbey boulder is shit stay at home and do some pullups or go climb a tree.Also please go easy with chalk and brushing in the mournes we do not want a repeat of whats happened in our southern cousin wicklow.ie the fin."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

statmanpap posted the following "3 AMEIGOS at muckross was good but is no more. CLOUD 9 on chimney rock is nearly perfect i think- situation, nice block! and nice height. on binnian - MR POTATOE HEAD (might have other name/ it's a bit of an old classic) is a nice line with amazing holds. FLAKERS is wild and not really a boulder problem. TRIGGERS is too short lived. WRITERS BLOCK is another Hunter Robertson wee gem for those who can move with the mournes. HEAD FIRST FOR HALOS is the best line up there. perfect for that style. these are just the ones with names. there's so many little classics up there.like the arete on the valley side near the summit tor. and basicially binnian is one of the coolest places in the world. HOMEWARD BOUND at the head is very good. aesthetic with amazing movements.CARBIDE is classic fairhead. massive block with one way up (bar walking onto the top) scary too. THE SPAS-TIK (wall to the right of the boombastik/ goose project) is f#ckin brilliant. heigh and with amazin movements. massive heel rock over at the start.BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE LETTER M is just brilliant. nice holds, nice little wall and right at the start of the boulders. LEFTISM looks very good. THE BIG SQUEEZE will surely be on the ultimate irish boulders wish list.and i hope he does it this year... Prime line with amazin holds and movements. can't really get too excited for the rest of the place though. CULCAGH is special FERMANAGH is the future... BALLINTOY is sh!t HEAD FIRST FOR HALOS is probaly my favourate"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Glen Eden posted the following "its been changed ali.. get with the program man! whens the disco gettin out in the mournes again?"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

aliwilson posted the following "'glen' don't you mean the four pillars of enlightenment?"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

nivek posted the following "X-men in Portrane"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Justin posted the following "Whers that problem located in the Mournes.Love to give it a go,love highballs"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Glen EDen posted the following "The Pillers of wisdom. 1. mournes 30 sec walkin 2.high ball 3.good landing disscussion over really"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

chris r posted the following "you must be joking, it's barely a line..or rather a deviation from a natural line...hardly criteria for best boulder problem in ireland. incidentally anyone done that 7B to the right, twin aretes, it look great but i'm only ever there when it rains"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Ewan posted the following "Darkness before dawn is my favourite even though I can't do it.That problem is amazing,just looking at it and thinking someone has done the moves is awe inspiring.The settings good too."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

aliwilson posted the following "cloud nine is def good, and agree with ricky the other problem at chimney rock is good too. The roof thing on binnian i've always called the piano. So many of those problems don't have names. i think in the new mournes guide they'll just have made up names."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

petermc posted the following "Didn't want to mention 3star arete, don't know that it's been done yet, but definetly"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

ciaran posted the following "Cheers Dave, i'm back climbing now, hopefully bouldering in another few months !!"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Ricky posted the following "Another vote for cloud nine.... Also like the arete on the pyramid/tripod block also on Chimney - don't know it's name! More good problems in the Mournes include the slab/arete at Pierces Castle and I'm fond of that overhanging roof thing on South Tor (?) on Binnian. There's also loads of really good problems at Fair Head - The Hunters have done dozens although don't publish them."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Pierre posted the following "Me thinks: 1. the 3 star Arete in Carrickfin (it's got it all) 3. Living the dream (the first that poped to my mind) 2. Lesbian treaty (because it's mine, it's cool and i loved the place) But let's be rational: http://pierreboulderingblog.blogspot.com/2008_07_01_archive.html An update of this would be very welcomed Davo!"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Andy posted the following "Cloud nine at Chimney rock is one of the best boulder problems in Ireland in my opinion.Perfect Granite,a decent height above an ok landing =20 points.Awesome location overlooking the Mournes=20 points.Crimpy start with balancy moves to slopers=20 points.Textbook rockover move to a tiny crimp=20points.Big toilet bowl Thank God jug as the final hold=20points.Feels amazing when it all comes together and its not too easy and not too hard,perfect=900points.1000 points out of a 1000.Pretty damn good."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

aliwilson posted the following "there's a few more up at the head over at the murlough bay end now. from memory, Andy Marshall did the arete right of 7 which is a committing 6c (brilliant) [it has a cool name as well but i forget it] Gibby did a standing start of the wall left of Eat it (6c or 7a?) (also brilliant) Ricky did the sit start of the same problem which shares the sit start of eat it (7c) Beyond Carbide on a steep wall with a wooden goose is a new problem - Boombastik? by Ricky Bell (7b?c) Between that wall and the sea - facing the sea there's a short wall with some decent sit start problems in the 6a/6b range. There's also a highball arete andy marshall did behind and to the right (on the guide) of Eat it. Scary 6b by the sound of it. There bungs of projects up there too receiving attention. at the other end of the crag theres a good looking boulder right on the shore which unfortunately tends to suffer from spray in high seas, but has good lines. See Jamie and Ed Barbour on it on Underdeveloped. Having typed this it occurs to me i should just update the flipping guide. will try to sort that out."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Eamon posted the following "I love dark Matter in Portrane "

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Dave posted the following "Or most of the problems people have choosen are in Wicklow as that is where most people on this board climb. "

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

michael posted the following "Most of the problems are in Wicklow because Wicklow has some of the best rock in Ireland. Although the limestone in the Wormhole is better, just haven't done enough problems there, yet! So Dave, maybe your question should be, were is the best bouldering in Ireland, 3 star problems to the amount of rock in the area. Fairhead has a lot of rock but not that many problems. Portrane has much less rock but a lot of quality lines. Therefore 3 stars to rock ratio. And no not 3rock!"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Dave posted the following "Welcome back to the message board Ciaran."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

ciaran posted the following "I'd be a big fan of white arrow, the plum, st.kevin's slab and the uberhang (traverse from the right)and back to black, can't quite pick a favourite though !!"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Mike posted the following "That Flaker problem in the Mournes is my favourite."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Paul posted the following "It just struck me that apart from Dave's and Ali's suggestions every problem mentioned has been in Wicklow. Location-centric or what! I agree Eat It is a cool problem, but it is a tad basic. The SS looks mega though. Triggers is probably the best problem I've tried in the North. Easily one of the best in the country imo. (as an aside, have any short-arses done the Eat It SS? Felt like a very morpho move to me.)"

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

Dom posted the following "if there was a better public indoor bouldering wall in Dublin, there would be more of a scene. I guess it is an inevitable development. After all, the bouldering around Dublin is pretty good, probably better than the routing"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

aliwilson posted the following "i know this is a bit locationcentric but you could do a lot worse than Eat it, Eat it Left or Eat it SS at Fairhead. Conditions won't be properly in at FH for a few weeks though i'd say. Someone mentioned the arete beside the Fin. I agree it's cool but preferred the Fin to be honest."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

michael posted the following "It has to be solidarity. Pure line, excellent rock, great landing, beautiful setting and only one way up that side of the boulder. What more could you want?"

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

dec posted the following "the egg ss keeps me coming back for more, although I must admit its convenient location also plays a part. For one of the best looking lines it must be solidarity, must build up thicker skin this year and fall off it some more..."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Paul posted the following "Leftism gets my vote. Out of the ones I've seen anyway. Or maybe that project in Glenmac on the boulder past the car park (the one with Smash n' Grab on). Solid independant line, great holds, great moves and nails hard. Will be brilliant when it gets done."

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Tim posted the following "I really like that Dead point behind the rails, so simple but i likes it. I also like the problem i think 16/17 on the rasher but that could be as its just sucked my attention whilst waiting for the temp to drop through out summer. Dam you Dermo! "

Re:Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Jack posted the following "I'm still pretty into the 6a arete on the Fin boulder in Glendo. I think it is the bomb."

Best boulder problem in Ireland?

Dave posted the following "I assume we have dicussed it before but not recently (did a search it was May '08). Anyway I'm going to stick with what I said last time Split Arete in Polldoo."

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

Mark posted the following "I got in to bouldering without being a trad or sport climber first. I think I enjoyed the freedom of movement on the rock, the challenge that you could get from climbing less than 4 meters of rock and the effort it took to move up the grades with hard and technical moves you wouldn't necessarily want to try 40 meters in the air, the sense of adventure and being outside finding new problems, and the social element down at my local wall... ...oh, and I'm not the best with heights!"

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

Dave posted the following "I'm don't agree that the things you mentioned would mean nothing to a beginner, they are of course coming at things from a different angle. The point I suppose I'm trying to make is that bouldering is a very natural thing, theres nothing unapproachable about it, its just clambering around, setting silly little challenges for ourselves and sharing them with others. Its play. Its not risking life and death. Success is measured at least superfically by getting to the top. You wouldn't really need to explain bouldering to a child. You could be on a walk in Glendo (and I have seen it happend many times) and you could say to your young cousin "would you say you could get to the top of that rock their?" and they would be off bouldering like a shot. They might be surprised that people write bouldering guides or make films about it but they would get bouldering in its broadest sense. Bouldering is a broad church, its just about friction, working projects and training that is just one aspect, maybe its the one that one tends to be appeciated after some time bouldering. "

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

diarmuid posted the following "Well for starters many of the things i enjoy about bouldering are quite subtle, the grain of the rock or a type of move or a specific hold, which would mean nothing to a beginner. Also "expert" boulderers can appreciate the effort involved in climbing a problem which beginner's will not, there's little sense of achievement for them. I've been asked by awestruck freshers if anyone's ever reached the top of the ucd wall but the same people will throw themselves at the bouldering wall cos it's smaller."

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

Dave posted the following "I assume the first they see hear of bouldering is when they go to the wall and talk to other climbers there. I don't see why a first time boulderer would enjoy bouldering anyless than someone who had been doing it for years."

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

dec posted the following "how main-stream is bouldering though? Has your average fresher ever heard of it or seen it? I'd be suprised if they had or that it was what they aspired to do when they joined whatever club it was, so I'm also suprised it's the first thing they go for. I definately think that it's easier to bumble around on trad climbs. I'm suprised that you don't need to be at a decent-ish level of climbing for first time out to enjoy bouldering (even if it is just coming from the climbing wall) Dec. "

Re:2009/2010 Irish Bouldering League in association with Patagonia

Stephen McMullan posted the following ":-)"

Re:2009/2010 Irish Bouldering League in association with Patagonia

Dave posted the following "Patagucci"

2009/2010 Irish Bouldering League in association with Patagonia

Stephen McMullan posted the following "The Irish Bouldering League is delighted to announce that its primary sponsor for the 2009/2010 series of indoor climbing competitions is the designer of outdoor apparel, Patagonia. We�re delighted to be working with Patagonia. By bringing in a sponsor of this quality, the Patagonia Irish Bouldering League is ensuring its future success as the primary indoor climbing competition series in Ireland. The Irish Bouldering League has been operating without pause since 1992. A major factor in its success is the fact that it is run on a voluntary basis by climbers for climbers and is greatly assisted by the colleges and sport centre venues that we use on our regular circuit in Dublin, Cork, Kerry, Galway and Belfast. The competition is run in conjunction with Mountaineering Ireland, the national governing body for the sport. A word from Patagonia: Patagonia grew out of a small company that made tools for climbers. Alpinism remains at the heart of a worldwide business that still makes clothes for climbing � as well as for skiing, snowboarding, surfing, fly fishing, paddling and trail running. These are all silent sports. None requires a motor; none delivers the cheers of a crowd. In each sport, reward comes in the form of hard-won grace and moments of connection between us and nature. Our values reflect those of a business started by a band of climbers and surfers, and the minimalist style they promoted. The approach we take towards product design demonstrates a bias for simplicity and utility. For us at Patagonia, a love of wild and beautiful places demands participation in the fight to save them, and to help reverse the steep decline in the overall environmental health of our planet. We donate our time, services and at least 1% of our sales to hundreds of grassroots environmental groups all over the world who work to help reverse the tide. We know that our business activity � from lighting stores to dyeing shirts � creates pollution as a by-product. So we work steadily to reduce those harms. We use recycled polyester in many of our clothes and only organic, rather than pesticide-intensive, cotton. Staying true to our core values during thirty-plus years in business has helped us create a company we're proud to run and work for. And our focus on making the best products possible has brought us success in the marketplace. A reminder again of the current round dates: Round 1 - DCU, Dublin - 31st October 2009 Round 2 - Play at Height, Dingle - 21st November 2009 Round 3 - UCG, Galway - 5th December 2009 Round 4 - Middleton, Cork - 16th January 2010 Round 5 - To be confirmed"

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

Dave posted the following "BACK to routes? I think to improve at trad climbing you need to put huge time in and unlike bouldering it all needs to be done on real rock."

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

petermc posted the following "I think i might go back to routes, well, really, really easy short solos. You don't need to be as fit. You need a lot of training under your belt to get anything good from bouldering."

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

Dave posted the following "The advantages might well be attractions. I'm sure the attractions to a beginner are very similar to the attractions for a expert. So what are the attractions to you? What are the things you enjoy in bouldering?"

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

diarmuid posted the following "I suppose yeah, what got me into climbing initially was a mixture of heights, risk and maybe a sense of adventure that is not immediately evident in bouldering. But you list advantages of bouldering, for a beginner what are the attractions? Those things I enjoy in bouldering now mostly only became obvious through climbing routes. "

Re:Beginner's and bouldering

Dave posted the following "The traditional path into bouldering was from roped climbing. This was the path you and I took. Since we started bouldering it has become much more popular and is seen as a end in itself. I don't think its surprising that some people new to rock climbing would have a interest in bouldering from the get go. After all some of the advantages of bouldering could be/are very appealing to beginners (safer, less equipment, little formal training required). I think what you are really saying is that you are surprised the thrill of climbing high on a cliff is not more attractive to beginners than messing around on poxy boulders?"

Beginner's and bouldering

diarmuid posted the following "Saw the ucd fresher's weekend crew down the boulders in Glendo over the weekend and there appeared to be more boulderers than route climbers. This suggests to me that people were starting into bouldering as complete beginners to rock climbing. This surprises me as I (and i suspect most people on here) started out doing routes and then moved into bouldering for various reasons. I don't see that i ever would have got into bouldering as a sport without experiencing route climbing first. Just an observation."

Re:Are the midge gone?

SteveMc posted the following "yeah I look fairly diseased after yesterday....damn flying biting things!!!"

Re:Are the midge gone?

John H posted the following "Can confirm that the midge are still very much alive and well at cloghogue at least."

Re:Are the midge gone?

diarmuid posted the following "got bit in glendo yesterday, they weren't a deal breaker but they were definitely biting."

Rope lost at Ballyryan, Clare

Shane posted the following "One much loved and cared for navy rope lost at Ballyryan late August (probably Wed 26th). Would be delighted if soemone out there managed to rescue it."

Rope lost at Ballyryan, Clare

Shane posted the following "One much loved and cared for navy rope lost at Ballyryan late August (probably Wed 26th). Would be delighted if soemone out there managed to rescue it."

Re:Lost and Found

Tim posted the following "Didnt see them there was a key near big Jim."

Re:Are the midge gone?

Tim posted the following "Bray and I were up there today and not a midge insight. It was a great day as well, loads of milage."

Lost and Found

PeterMc posted the following "I left my glasses near big Jane in Glendo some where, if anyone finds them..."

Re:Irish Bouldering Team Font trip??

smacks posted the following "Excellent news. I will get to font sometime on friday the 23rd so should meet up then at wherever you're climbing. Bringing nice big dewalt light for a bit of night time sessions : ) Be really keen to climb with you lads on the saturday as it's been a while. Peak trip - whenever you want lads. From now on is ideal weather. Been out bouldering already and the temp is only going down : )"

Re:Are the midge gone?

Matt posted the following "didn't seem to be any in glendo the last couple of weekends...thankfully! Matt"

Re:Are the midge gone?

Stephen McMullan posted the following "I've been to some of the most infamous midge hellholes in Scotland over the last two weeks and not a sign of the critters apart from one bite at dusk on a very still day in Skye. Was up Lug via the zigzags and back via Arts glen and again nada. S"

Are the midge gone?

Dave posted the following "There where some still around 2 weekends ago. Anyone seen/not seen them recently?"

link to your site on ours

Sepp posted the following "Hey Guys, just to tell u that i put a link to your nice website on ours;) check it out on http://www.klimzaalblok.be take care and keep on bouldering "

IBL 2009/2010 Round dates

Stephen McMullan posted the following "The round dates as they stand currently: Round 1 - DCU, Dublin - 31st October 2009 Round 2 - Play at Height, Dingle - 21st November 2009 Round 3 - UCG, Galway - 5th December 2009 Round 4 - St Colmans Community College, Middleton, Cork - 16th January 2010 Round 5 - To be confirmed"

Re:Quad & scrambler bike damage on the Wicklow hills

Stephen McMullan posted the following "I'm biting me lip Dave ;-) It depends on where they are and what they are doing. Most riders will stick to hard trails and do minimal damage. However if there's a large group ripping up the soft ground in a National Park - then yeah why not - phone it in. Its basically up to your discretion. The spotlight for the moment is on quads and motorbikes. Reading between the lines I'd say MTBs and horses are not really the issue at the moment."

Re:Quad & scrambler bike damage on the Wicklow hills

Dave posted the following "What about mountain bikes, should we phone if we see any of these?"

Quad & scrambler bike damage on the Wicklow hills

Stephen McMullan posted the following "The serious damage to some upland areas from the off-road use of motorized vehicles is a concern for many hillwalkers and climbers. Thankfully, there is something we can do to counteract this. Most of the Wicklow mountains are in the Wicklow Mountains Special Area of Conservation (SAC). This is an EU nature designation and due to a recent change in legislation it is now a criminal offence to damage such a protected area. The difficulty which arises is that the National Parks & Wildlife Service (NPWS) who have responsibility for protecting SACs have limited staff resources to monitor the mountains, particularly at weekends when most of this activity takes place. NPWS have asked us to inform walkers that if they see recreational use of quads or scrambler bikes on the open mountainside that they should immediately phone the NPWS Duty Ranger number � 087 9803899. It would also be very helpful if you can get photographs of the people / vehicles. While NPWS won�t always be in a position to respond (they have one ranger on duty at the weekends) this will at least give them information regarding where the activity is taking place. The other information which is valuable to them is to know what points the vehicles are using to get onto the hills and obviously if you can get registration numbers for any vehicles they are using to transport the quads, that is valuable. While this might seem a lot, there was a report of quads heading up Lugnaquillia from the Slievemaan side just after 3.00pm on a Sunday afternoon, the Duty Ranger went to the area but failed to find the group coming off the hill. Had he received a second or third phone call about the activity he could have been in the right place to apprehend the group. The penalties for this offence can be high (seizure of vehicles, fine of up to �3,000, up to six months in jail). The NPWS are really keen to catch people so they can progress some prosecutions, generate publicity and hopefully dissuade others from engaging in this destructive activity. Please circulate this information and save the Duty Ranger number � 087 9803899 � into your mobile phone. Thanks Helen Lawless Countryside Recreation Officer ___________________________ Wicklow Uplands Council Saville House Rathdrum Co. Wicklow Tel.: +353 (0) 404 43958 Mobile: + 353 (0) 87 6563840 Website: www.wicklowuplands.ie"

Re:IBL Routesetters wanted!!!

Glen Eden posted the following "in progress..."

Re:IBL Routesetters wanted!!!

joris voorn posted the following "nice one glen. why dont you go make me a good set?"

The meet 2010

Sloper posted the following "If there's going to be one can I suggest avoiding 20th March as the flights are always much more when there's a home 6N game. I'm even on a diet and fitness program to prepare for next year."

Re:Irish Bouldering Team Font trip??

Tim posted the following "As above and would love a pesk tripin the new year. Se ya in font. "

Re:Irish Bouldering Team Font trip??

Dave posted the following "Yes we are. Will be there from the 21st to the 25th so we should meet up for some pints on our last and your first night the 24th? "

Irish Bouldering Team Font trip??

smacks posted the following "Wondering if any of you heading out this year? I'm going 24th Oct to 1st Nov. Also, will there be a peak trip for the IBT this year as it was missed last season??"

Re:Font

leo posted the following "theres a couple of us from UCD heading out in october (15th to the 18th)....theres a thread for it over at www.ucdmountaineeringclub.com "

Font

Shaun posted the following "Anyone going to Font soon?I need to get out there!"

Re:New version of the Guide

Mark posted the following "Awesome effort Dave, as per usual!"

Re:IBL Routesetters wanted!!!

Dave posted the following "Not yet Pierre. Have I though about charging for the guide? Yes of course. It takes a lot of time but I do enjoy doing it. If I thought there was an easy way for people to pay a small amount I would consider it. But as far as I can see there isn't yet."

Re:IBL Routesetters wanted!!!

Pierre posted the following "So you're a house-husband yet Dave? Good job on the new guide. Have you thought of a minimal PDF price like John's updates? 1 euro is still better than 0 euro! Only a thought... Looking forward to see the Glendo update! "

Re:New version of the Guide

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Doh - hadn't refreshed the page. Ignore that last comment. S"

Re:New version of the Guide

Stephen McMullan posted the following "It looks like its worth almost a million quid :-) Savage effort to keep this going through five revisions Dave. Fair play to ye. Just a minor point: you need to update the link "Download the bouldering guide". Its pointing to rev4 I managed to guess the location of rev5: http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/guide5.pdf"

New version of the Guide

Dave posted the following "Tell me how great/shit it is."

Re:IBL Routesetters wanted!!!

Dave posted the following "Its a good point you make Steve but a million euro would copensate me for running this website quite fine."

Re:IBL Routesetters wanted!!!

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Well the "compensation" was �150 per routesetter last year. The reason I mentioned voluntary is that I don't believe that amount of money covers the effort. Just like no amount of money compensates you for running a website like climbing.ie or TheShortSpan or running a competition like the IBL or a bouldering meet. You *have* to want to do it. S"

Re:IBL Routesetters wanted!!!

Glen Eden posted the following "voluntary role. No chance..."

new to climbing

matt cusick posted the following "i'm pretty new to climbing and new to dublin (just top-roping at trinity) i'm looking for a partner for indoor / outdoor and am happy to mostly do belaying, etc while i learn the ropes matt cusick.matt@gmail.com "

climbing partner

millo posted the following "Hiya, just wondering if there was anyone going to Wales next week, as I would like to hook up with someone if you are."

Irish Mountain Log reviews

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Hi there, Every now and again Joss Lynam, Irish Mountain Log Literary Editor asks me (and presumably others) to suggest someone to review a recently published book for the Irish Mountain Log. The book is posted to your address, you read it and write a review according to a standard template. You then return the book to Joss Grin and it is presented to the Mountaineering Ireland library which is accomodated at SportHQ in Dublin. So if anyone is interested in "reeding & riting" can you drop me an email : stephen@climbing.ie Joss is currently looking for someone to write a review in ultra quick delivery time for the new Rockfax to Pembroke. Thanks, Stephen"

IBL Routesetters wanted!!!

Stephen McMullan posted the following "We're almost back into indoor bouldering competition season. There will be some announcements soon with major news about changes for IBL 2009/2010 - all of them good I promise. Anyways just to get the ball rolling - I'm trying to compile a list of prospective routesetters who might be available to set during the series. The venues will be DCU, Dingle, NUIG, Midleton & (Dublin/Belfast - TBD). The system basically is that routesetting is done in teams of three. There will be a Senior Routesetter with two Assistant Routesetters. The difference between a "Senior" and an "Assistant" is purely on the basis that the Senior takes responsibility for making sure that the overall set of problems meets IBL requirements (quantity, quality, safety, marking, crowd management) and typically they are very experienced IBL routesetters & competitors and know the format well - its nothing to do with Senior Routesetters being able to set better problems than the Assistants. There is some compensation available for taking the day off work, travel expenses etc. available but its best looked on as a voluntary role. One exciting idea we'll be running this year is training for routesetters. More on this later but we're very keen to help inexperienced routesetters acquire more experience. For example in a routesetting team of three there will be scope to include an inexperiened routesetter and thus over time we can increase the amount of collective experience we have available for competitions. So send me on your name as an expression of interest. Thats all it is at the moment. I'll just put you on the list of "possibles". If I don't know you it would be no harm to include a bit about relevant experience i.e. have you set before, local comps, local walls etc. Thanks very much, IBL Committee. Email: ibl@climbing.ie"

Re:greyabbey

gladdis posted the following "yeah little lost gladdis is very right. it's trunks "

Re:greyabbey

little lost gladdis posted the following "its shite dont dare go"

Re:greyabbey

Jonny posted the following "I would say the Hunters were the first to climb on it but they probably kept it a secret so other people couldn't enjoy it as well!!"

Re:Scalp this evening - Wednesday 12th August

Dave posted the following "I went, there was a few midge but nothing terminal. Met Kev and Sean there. "

Re:greyabbey

Rickyy posted the following "Aaron was the first person I remember going on about it....."

Scalp this evening - Wednesday 12th August

Dave posted the following "I will be there at 7ish."

Re:bouldering near Dublin

Dave posted the following "The only place you are likely to meet people bouldering in Glendalough. You find people climbing routes in Dalkey Quarry. I plan to go to Glendalough on Sunday I will post up here if I am..."

Re:bouldering near Dublin

Phil posted the following "Ok, thanks I just took a look at it. Is there anyone planning to go there next week or Saturday? At which spot do you think I mostly likely find people?"

Re:bouldering near Dublin

Dave posted the following "The guide at www.theshortspan.com#guide contains all the information you should need to find all the bouldering spots near Dublin or elsewhere for that matter."

bouldering near Dublin

Phil posted the following "Cheers, I will be in Dublin for a week starting next Friday and looking for people to go bouldering with me. Anyone who wants to go or could tell me spots? Phil (Germany)"

Re:french and german

petermc posted the following "Living the dream indeed Tim, off to the greatoutdoors now, looks like its about to rain, but its been looking like that for weeks"

Re:Bullock this evening?

Dave posted the following "It rained so I didn't go."

Re:greyabbey

aliwilson posted the following "i don't think i have any photos but will dig about when i get home. theres a few very brief snippets in the underdeveloped intro or outro. Craig Hiller (hillerscapes.co.uk) might have a few cos he was certainly climbing with Aaron Boyd and Keith Willet when they started climbing there a good few years back. As far as i know they were the first guys to climb there. I seem to remember Ricky Young suggested folk climbed there before though so this isn't authoritative. Mac is right about the tide times although even if you are unlucky enough to get high tide it soon turns quick enough for you to get on the landward problems which it only just touches at high tide."

Re:french and german

Tim posted the following "I forgot that you had 'done font'. We will miss you there who will show us how to climb 8a? Good to here your still out climbing livivng the dream. Diet??? "

french and german

petermc posted the following "Hello David, it seems you have broken into America. I met a young american in the gap of dunloe who mentioned the shortspan. -At turnpike arete, he couldn';t manage it off the bike in his sandals, so i demonstrated it in shoes. The dyno on the face is very nice to, almost have it. He showed me a photo of a nice rock at the top of the gap. I checked it out and it was nice and looked like it had had little action. I don't think i will be going to font, because i have done most of the harder stuff there already and my colleague is going on maternity leave and i have to babysit his turf etc. Good luck with the diet."

Re:Cut up like a broken hearted woman

petermc posted the following "why don't you reply to dave and go to bullock, he is a good guide"

Cut up like a broken hearted woman

Eric posted the following "Well after a weekend of bottom rope rock climbing I invested in a pair of scarpa shoes and today I went out to Dalkey Quarry alone. I didn't have any chalk and no mat so I stuck to the wall on the left as you enter the west quarry, the traverse wall, i managed to get number 2,4,5. Fell on my arse on 2. I then went around to the Ivy area and messed around with different routes which i found from the chalk. I have the short span guide printed out so i tried to find some routes but i couldn't be totally sure. I had a great time but I realised that I would need to ask for some help. So I am wondering if anyone out there would mind me tagging along with them when they go out next? Also should I go ahead and start looking around for a mat? I can provide transport for any group who'd be willing to have me cheers eric ps my email is ewahlrab@gmail.com"

Bullock this evening?

Dave posted the following "Heading down around 7?"

greyabbey

jmc posted the following "yeah its worth a visit but I wouldnt go miles out of your way specially. Also, would be wise to check tide times as when the tides in you can only get at a couple of problems, which is a pain when you've travelled any distance! Not exactly sure who climbed there first but I think I recall Aaron Boyd and Keith Willet climbing on it before I did, and that was a good few years ago. "

Re:The Greyabbey Boulder

Dave posted the following "Thanks for that Ali. Do you know of any photos of it? Who bouldered there first?"

Re:The Greyabbey Boulder

aliwilson posted the following "you won't need a topo it's all pretty obvious. It's a worthwhile venue for a few hours. If you need to know how to get to it just drive out of newtownards towards portaferry. the boulder is on the right side of the road after you go through greyabbey. After you park in the layby, as you walk back to the boulder you will come up to a slopy arete. This is probably the main problem. There are lots of variations. Straight up is maybe 6a. up then left to finish up the crack is maybe 6b+ or 6c. The direct sit start eliminating the arete is almost certainly possible but a project. i'd guess it's probably 7c or upwards. When you're done here walk clockwise around the boulder until you reach an unfeatured almost vertical wall about 10 feet high. There is a brilliant slab problem here. It's about 6c depending on how much you jump/how tall you are at the end. A real test of footwork. If you are very honest and stand on from ground level it's probably 7a. There's a project up the slab to the right of the previous line (nearer the corner). I've done this up as far as a few feet from the top but it gets very thin there. clockwise again there's a couple of short lines - you could do a 5+ ascent of the short arete behind the slab. keep on going to the seaward side and there are maybe two short 6bs up the obvious fault lines. If you're a stamina beast, traverse from the round arete behind the slab all the way round the boulder to the slab with the the crack in it. This is hard. Maybe 7b or 7c. Never completed as far as i know. Finally on your circuit sit start around the seaward corner and try to get up on the slab. If you chicken out left it's easyish (maybe 6b) if you go out to finish on the slab it's harder. There is also a stand on problem up the slab with the crack in it. about 6b. Enjoy - and bring a decent brush, if no-ones been there for a while it might be licheny"

The Greyabbey Boulder

Dave posted the following "Does anyone know anything about this rock? There used to be an article on irishroclmber.com but I can't see the photos using archive.org, does anyone have a topo for it?"

Scalp this evening

Dave posted the following "I'm heading to the Scalp this evening at around 7."

Looking for partners

Javi posted the following "Hi Andy, I'm more or less new in Dublin, I'm looking for places and partners to climb indoor and outdoor, I have some experience, I'll like to met people here in Dublin who likes this export, I have some stuff necessary to start. If you wanna some more information about me, please go here http://www.couchsurfing.org/people/graciapoveda/ Hope to met you soon Un abrazo Javi"

Looking for partners

Re:Looking for partners in Dublin area

andy posted the following "sent u an email, but the address isnt working. deargmhor@hotmail.com or give us a call 0861732197. andy"

.

The obvious posted the following "You should contact Jerome, he seems to be looking for the same type of thing."

Looking for partners in Dublin area

sarah posted the following "Hi, I recently landed in Dublin area and I'm looking for partners to climb/boulder. I am available on evenings and w-e. I am interested in pretty much anything up to 7C If you are interested you can email me @ sarah.Herzigova@geemail.com Cheers "

Connemara

Leo posted the following "cool, thats perfect, i'm staying just up the road from there so will definitely try and find some of that stuff...as well as find some more."

Re:connemara

Dave posted the following "Was in Murvey last week. There isn't really that much their. Tons of rock but not much of it lends itself to good bouldering. The 3rd zawn along has a few very nice shorts solos above the deep pool. There is some actual bouldering on the beach at Dog's Bay coupled with some of the solos at Gorteen might be a better bet..."

connemara

leo posted the following "actually heading out to roundstone on saturday so would be really interested to know if there has been anything more found since the new guide came out? if not, i'll be having a look for some stuff and i'll be sure to post it up."

Re:bouldering at fairhead

Craig posted the following "Check out Fairhead climbers for the latest news,boulders rolling about and trapping folk SO BE CAREFUL!"

Who Cut the Cheese ?

Dan DeFarter posted the following "Hey.......Is it me or does someone else smell rottin eggs !"

Looking for partners in Dublin area

jerome posted the following "Hi, I recently landed in Dublin area and I'm looking for partners to climb/boulder. I am available on evenings and w-e. I am interested in pretty much anything up to 7C If you are interested you can email me @ jerome.legare@gmail.com Cheers"

Re: Connemara bouldering

Dave posted the following "Jonathan could you post up details just in case I'm driving by some day?"

Re:Connemara bouldering

jonathan posted the following "IM working up here near recess, and ive found a bit here and there. im just at the foot of cashel hill, and it has a bit. its also the only place I can get to. due to lack of transport:-( not worth travelling miles for though.on the west side theres some decent high balls , with a few projects still to be done, three or four boulders of easy grades. east side has a few bouldery slabs, all under 5b/5c but enjoyable climbing. if anyone is passing by the area in the next few weeks drop me an email and id be more than happy to show you where they are."

Connemara bouldering

Dave posted the following "Who knows what about Connemara bouldering? "

Re:Entertainment for the Short at Electric Mountain

Phil posted the following "I don't have a photo but I'll probably be back that way this weekend."

bouldering at fairhead

el pappy posted the following "i think there needs to be a wee irish meet at the head at the end of this summer. was up there for the first time the other day and saw some amazing boulders at the murlough end. some of the established problems looked amazin too.a lot of the landings had been made flat which made it look a lot more appealing than i'd heard. psyched "

Re: Limestone near Exit 7 near Cashel on M8

Seamus posted the following "Jasus, lads, that's bad. And I thought I was sad with my railway bridges. If you live down there, the only hint I'll give you is quarries...the older the better as they were hand-worked in the old days hence the rock isn't shattered. Don't know about the Cashel area but Tipperary...look & you shall find."

Re:knockanagun

Jeff G posted the following "Lovely looking problems. Nice looking weather too!"

Re:knockanagun

Dave posted the following "Nearly forgotten indeed. Its a great problem."

Re:knockanagun

petermc posted the following "nice photo of cyclops. The last time i was there was september 2002. Wow. i'd nearly forgotten it"

Re:Entertainment for the Short at Electric Mountain

Dave posted the following "Just trying to clarify where this problem goes Phil you out there? A photo would be great as I can't picture it."

Re: Re: Limestone near Exit 7 near Cashel on M8

Paul posted the following "Yeah, it also means grease, midges and sunburn!"

Re: Re: Limestone near Exit 7 near Cashel on M8

andy posted the following "summer time doesnt just mean bbqs dave!! "

Re: Re: Copyright and the bouldering guide

tony rooney posted the following "Your starting point is waaaay off. Just because the originator of any creation does not assert their right to be protected by copyright laws does not supersede their right to copywriting their material. Copyright lies with the creator by default, and the only person who can make any change to this is the owner of the copyright. In relation to dead people. Copyright is still theirs for 70 years after their death, and in some cases longer, if their estate retains copyright. While these may or may not be relevant to the issues regarding contents of the bouldering guide, that�s the way it is when it comes to copyright. Even if the copyright owners give permission to reproduce their work the copyright still lies with them. Unless they decide to give it up. If the user has released the work under a creative commons license then the work can be reproduced without permission, but with some stipulations (for non-profit, or no changes are allowed be made, as examples). "

Re: Re: Copyright and the bouldering guide

Sloper posted the following "This was dealt with via the dispute between Rockfax and the BMC back in the 1980's and while I'm not an IP lawyer and don't know Irish IP law but I would say that the following is likely to be the starting point. 1. If the author didn't assert his moral and legal rights to copywright then reproduction of the information will not be a breach. 2. If the information is introduced into the public domain as a matter of fact ie that Michael Jackson is dead, then this cannot be protected via copyright. 3. Descriptions which are a matter of fact cannot be copyrighted, eg Wicklow is to be found to the south of Dublin. 4. Art work and 'literary' descriptions (eg Jonnie Dawes / Redhead's ramblings); for example evoking the ambiance of an area or how it felt to climb the route can be copyrighted. "

Re:test

dave posted the following "8888"

Re:test

dave posted the following "7777"

Re:test

dave posted the following "666666666666666"

Re:test

dave posted the following "8888888888888"

Re: Limestone near Exit 7 near Cashel on M8

Dave posted the following "Sounds interestings, glad to hear someones getting out climbing."

Limestone near Exit 7 near Cashel on M8

Domnick posted the following "There are two bands of Limestone rock bordering the M8 near Exit 7 near Cashel. The bands vary in height from about 3m to 6m and I would estimate each at about 500m in length. We parked off the hard shoulder in the grass beside it, not the best spot really. The rock is quite loose because I believe the rock outcrops were artificially created, to accommodate the motorway, if you know what I mean. You will get quite a bit of attention from motorists, since the rock is only about 4m from the motorway. You can hear them rolling over the cats eyes in distraction and also you get the odd beep expressing some emotion or other, I presume. A Garda on a motorbike passed us but I don't know if he noticed us or not... A friend & I traversed about half the East facing band on Saturday, in a northwards direction. Following the easiest line can force you to gain a height that may cause some mental discomfort... The grade varied up to 4+ on the route we took, I would say. If you are not put off by the loose rock and the situation, you just might enjoy yourself :) "

New post on topic Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

Kevin K posted on subject Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

New post on topic Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

leo posted on subject Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

New post on topic Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

Paul posted on subject Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

New post on topic Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

diarmuid posted on subject Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

New post on topic Directions

Pedro posted on subject Directions

New post on topic Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

Mark posted on subject Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

New post on topic Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

Dave posted on subject Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

New post on topic Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

Dave posted the following Seriously though thanks to everyone who came along - I reckon there was about 25 people. If anyone has any photos post them up. on subject Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bouldering BBQ Bulllock

New post on topic Re: New RSS feed

Stephen McMullan posted the following Hi Dave, Good idea. Any chance of cleaning it up a bit? Just have it like the display of the message board with a bit of the leading text: "New RSS feed - Dave 17/Jun/2009 AS requested by Tim I have created a RSS feed for the message board. Let me know...." rather than what appears at the moment: "New post on topic New RSS feed Dave posted on subject New RSS feed" I think you also need to fix up the ordering as the original posts are appearing before the replies. Anyways don't mean to criticise. Good work and look forward to using it Stephen on subject Re: New RSS feed

New post on topic "Re: Re: New RSS feed"

Dave posted the following " Thanks Steve I have tidied up the feeds formating now. Is the ordering of the posts in the feed not only an issue when you initally subscribe? It seems to me that from that point on they appear in the order that they are posted? Maybe your feeder is different - I'm using google reader.

New post on topic "Re: Re: Re: New RSS feed"

Stephen McMullan posted the following "Using Firefox live bookmarks and also the reader in Google Desktop Web Clips gadget. Still being listed in reverse order. No problems with other RSS feeds. Also any chance of getting rid of the "New post on topic" out of every subject in the feed and just leaving the topic subject? "

Re: Re: Re: Re: New RSS feed

Dave posted the following "I have got rid of "New post on topic"."

Trip to Ireland

Pierre posted the following "Howdy, I'll be around next week from Monday to Friday. Hopefully going to touch some good old Irish rock with Timo on Monday. I think I should also have a night out but preferably not Friday as I have to be in Clare on Saturday (4th June) for the christening of my son. Anyone up for it? "

Re: Trip to Ireland

Pierre posted the following "I mean the night out, not the christening, doh!"

Re: Re: Trip to Ireland

Paul posted the following "Where were you thinking of heading out on Monday? I'll have rejoined the ranks of the happily unemployed by that time."

Re: Re: Re: Trip to Ireland

Tim posted the following "Not sure yet open to suggestion, needs to be high and windy! "

Re: Trip to Ireland

Mark posted the following "Be good to see you dude, will keep my eyes on here for the details!"