TheShortSpan

Bouldering in Ireland

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24/04/08

New problem database

I have added a new problem database www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php Now we have one central place to record and store all first ascents (for better or worse). Please add any new problems you do in the future or have done in the past. Post on the message board if you have any problems using it.

15/04/08

Updated bouldering guide to Ireland 2008

Dave Flanagan on an unclimbed problem in Fraughan Rock Glen, Glenmalure, Wicklow. Photo by Ped McMahon.

After a long battle the third edition of the guide is finally finished. The guide is almost 100 pages, contains over 1050 problems and about 150 diagrams (maps and topos). The first edition from Feburary '05 had 600 problems and the second from October '06 had 900. I have redrawn the vast majority of the maps and diagrams.

This guide is intended to be reasonably definitive but just because something has been climbed doesn't mean it is worth documenting so I haven't detailed every variation, elimate, lowball sitstart or squeezed in micro line. From a personal point of view I attach the highest value to logical, independent lines with good moves and good landings and every problem that fits this criteria is described.

The following areas have been added to the third edition :

Doochary, Donegal.
Fanad Head, Donegal.
Glenmalure, Wicklow.
Stonecutters Glen, Wicklow.
Doolin, Clare.

In future the guide will be updated more often as some of the areas new to this edition had been discovered over a year ago. The next edition will hopefully contain updated guides to Glendo, The Scalp, Gap of Dunloe/Black Valley topos, Cooleys and Carrigshouk for starters.

To download the guide right click and select "Save Target As..."

guide3.pdf 3.7 Mb

Huge thanks to all who contributed. Comments, corrections and feedback to the message board.

28/03/08

New bouldering in the Black Valley, Kerry

Eoin Myers on the unclimbed sitting start to the arete of the
Bone Yard Boulder. Photo by Damien O'Sullivan.

Kevin O'Leary.
Photo by Damien O'Sullivan.

In Spring 2007 Damien O'Sullivan, Eoin Kennedy, Hugh Henessey and Mick Walsh did some great new bouldering in the Black Valley in an area called Flash Dance. The further potential was obvious and last weekend they went back with Eoin Myers, Kev O' Leary and Steph Stariha. Damien reports

"The boulders did not disappoint. The rock is of good quality, there is a broad range of difficulties and the setting is amazing. We only rubbed the dust covering the surface, not even going so far as to scratch it."

The walk in is about ten minutes. The boulders may be on private property and you definitely cross private property to get to them. Directions here.

These new problems combined with the established bouldering in the Gap of Dunloe make this part of Kerry a very worthwhile bouldering destination. My plan at the moment is to organise a gathering of boulderers in the Gap, similar to the meet in Wicklow, for the June Bank holiday weekend.

More of Damo's photos are here.

Kerry sandstone. Photo by Damien O'Sullivan.

07/03/08

2008 Irish Bouldering Meet report

By Dave Flanagan and Peter Tom McMahon.

Tim Chapman on some slopey holds. Photo by Mark Hand.

The forecast was mixed for the weekend of the meet but I think for once it was dried than expected. Saturday started well and was dry til around 3 when the drizzle descended. There was a reasonable number of boulderers out, maybe 40 and there was opportunity for everyone to get a bit done.

The weather on Sunday was much better and with an early start we managed to get a nice bit done in Glendo in good conditions and even some sun. The attendance was definitely down on recent years maybe because the forecast wasn't great. However it's worth noting that there been some climbing done on every meet so far. Anyway the meet will be back next year.

A big thanks to all who made the effort to come and a special thanks to to the MCI, the IMC for the use of the hut and Wicklow National Park without all of whom the meet couldn't happen.

Peter Tom McMahon wrote the following report of the weekend:

I purchased the Irish Times on Wedensday from the Polish girl in the newsagent. There was a cloud in the box forecasting the weather for the coming weekend. On Friday night i drove to the cabin in the woods. When i arrived Tom was talking about Dwarf Pornography and according to the Kaleidoscope in my mind the psilocybin was kicking in. So i left for solitude and a stroll before the introspection became paranoid and annoying. I walked to the graveyard and lay in a bush by a tombstone.
Returning to the cabin; I met the troops in headtorch headgear heading for the Glendaloch Hotel. So i turned in my heels and joined their merry parade. They played pool with the natives and music on the jukebox. I sat by the fire and watched the fire and thought it a warm lovely picture.
We returned to the cabin and spoke a conversation full of gags. I lit a fire and slept by the fire and a log fell out and nearly gave me a nasty injury. In the morning some had breakfast in the cabin, others in the cafe and some went straight to the rocks. We walked toward the waterfall and gathered by Big Jim and Jane.
Along the way i shared the local lore with two lovely Polish girls and regaled them with my memory of the endless night in Kevin's bed. We climbed. The rain came and we returned to the Hotel for tea crumpets and scones and there i found a paperclip by the bar to replace the broken zip on my raincoat.
The weather was drizzling. Returning to the cabin; Dave and I stopped by a lovely Rock in the forest. It was dry and difficult. We spent near an hour and a half working the right side arete. Then it was dark. In the cabin i ate chicken burgers and bacon. The troops gathered and we drank and talked and slept.
In the morning we returned toward the waterfall into the valley. The weather was very nice, the climbing conditions excellent the craic mighty but i had to leave early to catch a Mother's Day lunch appointment in the Yacht Club.